USDM GSR = definately not LSD?

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d.b.cooper

Mid-life Crisis Swap
Loud ugly noises and failure to disengage leads me to believe I tore a clutch disc. Dropped it off for new clutch today.

Engine is GSR B18, in an EG hatch. (Will's) Long term would like to boost modestly 7-8 lbs daily, a bit more at the strip only if and when I can add forged pistons and better rods.

Suggestions on clutch that won't break my leg in daily driving but will hold up to abuse of occaisonal indescretions? Considering a lightened flywell as well, suggestions?

Also, got some grinds and growls, syncro on 1st fairly chewed up, planning on rebuild while the tranny is out. I was considering adding an (ITR?) LSD if in fact my GSR does not have an LSD stock.

Current set-up behaves, I thought, like it does have, ie: on smooth surfaces I can leave two tire tracks, and the inside tire tends to break loose in hard acceleration into tight left turn. On the other hand, I don't do huge tire smoking burnouts so maybe its just pretty well balanced.
 
Your gsr definitely does not have an LSD in it from the factory. If it does, it is either not a gsr tranny, or has an aftermarket, or itr/ctr LSD. Clutchmasters kevlar stage 2 disc seems to be the clutch buzzword around here as of recently. Just go with a street pressure plate from whatever brand you choose, and the pedal pressure shouldn't be bad. Honda clutches are really light regarding pedal pressure anyway, so even a good track/race pressure plate probably won't be unbearable unless you are in heavy traffic everyday. Just make sure to match the clutch with your power goals so you don't torch a clutch that isn't up for the job. Just my .02.
 
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Loud ugly noises and failure to disengage leads me to believe I tore a clutch disc. Dropped it off for new clutch today.

Engine is GSR B18, in an EG hatch. (Will's) Long term would like to boost modestly 7-8 lbs daily, a bit more at the strip only if and when I can add forged pistons and better rods.

Suggestions on clutch that won't break my leg in daily driving but will hold up to abuse of occaisonal indescretions? Considering a lightened flywell as well, suggestions?

Also, got some grinds and growls, syncro on 1st fairly chewed up, planning on rebuild while the tranny is out. I was considering adding an (ITR?) LSD if in fact my GSR does not have an LSD stock.

Current set-up behaves, I thought, like it does have, ie: on smooth surfaces I can leave two tire tracks, and the inside tire tends to break loose in hard acceleration into tight left turn. On the other hand, I don't do huge tire smoking burnouts so maybe its just pretty well balanced.
First gear doesn't have a synchronizer. If it is grinding then you need to stop putting it in first at too high of a speed or get ready to buy gears when you do the rebuild.
 
First gear doesn't have a synchronizer. If it is grinding then you need to stop putting it in first at too high of a speed or get ready to buy gears when you do the rebuild.
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I have a ACT street lite flywheel and a ACT hdss clutch kit on my gsr and it fells perfect for the street. not to stiff at all.
 
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First gear doesn't have a synchronizer. If it is grinding then you need to stop putting it in first at too high of a speed or get ready to buy gears when you do the rebuild.

none? I find I cannot put it into first even while rolling to a stop without letting the clutch out, giving it a little rev and then put the clutch back in. I don't put itin first at any kind of speed since 2nd is more than low enough for most things, but it doesnt seem that you should have to come to a complete stop before it will easilly go into first?

thanks all for the replies.
 
IMO, rebuilding a GSR tranny isn't worth it. Just snag an ITR or CTR off Ebay. You can get them for around a G shipped.

Also, I know for a hands-on fact you can push 12lbs on a GSR daily-driven safely, and with an ITR tranny run 12.20's on drag radials. Seen it done, with the ITR tranny from my FoDo in a friend of mine's EK hatch. bolt-on DRAG kit, boost controller, and FMU, with a clutchmasters stage 3 clutch.

Which brings me to my next point...I've ALWAYS sworn by Exedy clutches for stock or near-stock applications, but under boost or any other real above-stock power, CM is the way to go.

What I'd do if I were you? Get an ITR tranny, CM stage 3 clutch, some decent axles (Gators are awesome...I'd stay away from DriveShaftShop), and a bolt-on DRAG kit with Hondata. :thumbsup:
 
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IMO, rebuilding a GSR tranny isn't worth it. Just snag an ITR or CTR off Ebay. You can get them for around a G shipped.

Also, I know for a hands-on fact you can push 12lbs on a GSR daily-driven safely, and with an ITR tranny run 12.20's on drag radials. Seen it done, with the ITR tranny from my FoDo in a friend of mine's EK hatch. bolt-on DRAG kit, boost controller, and FMU, with a clutchmasters stage 3 clutch.

Which brings me to my next point...I've ALWAYS sworn by Exedy clutches for stock or near-stock applications, but under boost or any other real above-stock power, CM is the way to go.

What I'd do if I were you? Get an ITR tranny, CM stage 3 clutch, some decent axles (Gators are awesome...I'd stay away from DriveShaftShop), and a bolt-on DRAG kit with Hondata. :thumbsup:


ITR has shortest gears right? Shorter final drive as well? I was thinking I kind of like the GSR 5th gear for highway driving...the temptation to rebuild is mostly to maximize some of the expense of paying someone else to do the clutch. Just lost it before I left for San Diego on vacation with the family. Dropped it off a SRD before leaving town. With any luck my busy season should start soon and I can't afford to get stuck without transportation. I agree that the ITR would be faster, but I'd be getting the wear and tear it already has, and I was kinda wanting to start fresh.

If I did add ITR final drive, would 1-4 gears be similar to ITR?
 
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First gear doesn't have a synchronizer. If it is grinding then you need to stop putting it in first at too high of a speed or get ready to buy gears when you do the rebuild.

none? I find I cannot put it into first even while rolling to a stop without letting the clutch out, giving it a little rev and then put the clutch back in. I don't put itin first at any kind of speed since 2nd is more than low enough for most things, but it doesnt seem that you should have to come to a complete stop before it will easilly go into first?

thanks all for the replies.
Definitely none. I can't get mine in 1st until I am barely creeping along. Nothing wrong with it. Just not sychronized. Shouldn't have to come to a complete stop, though. May have some chewed up gears.
 
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First gear doesn't have a synchronizer. If it is grinding then you need to stop putting it in first at too high of a speed or get ready to buy gears when you do the rebuild.

none? I find I cannot put it into first even while rolling to a stop without letting the clutch out, giving it a little rev and then put the clutch back in. I don't put itin first at any kind of speed since 2nd is more than low enough for most things, but it doesnt seem that you should have to come to a complete stop before it will easilly go into first?

thanks all for the replies.
Definitely none. I can't get mine in 1st until I am barely creeping along. Nothing wrong with it. Just not sychronized. Shouldn't have to come to a complete stop, though. May have some chewed up gears.

yes, it will go in at a creep. barely. I just bought a 65 bug for my son, and I knew there is no syncro in 1st in that trans, but his is especially hard to put into 1st, like you say, some abused gears likely. I just told him to wait tell he is stopped to downshift to first. I was just surprised that the honda doesnt. is it just gsrt or all honda trans? Is it common for trans not to syncro 1st still? on the theory that you only use it for starting out?
 
I don't know much about transmissions, but I know that it isn't difficult to put my integra LS into first when I am slowing down. Maybe I just don't do it often enough to notice, but I have never really thought about it. Maybe I just shift differently than you guys...
 
I don't know Mike. I also have a b16 trans and you have an LS. Gear ratio may have something to do with what speed you can get it in 1st when moving. Probably not much of a difference, though. That is just how they work. But if d.b.cooper is having to do all this-"letting the clutch out, giving it a little rev and then put the clutch back in.", he probably has a problem.
D.B.-Most transmissions(and I say most meaning every one I have ever seen) do not have 1st or reverse synchronized. You are right. It is because those two gears are meant to be used from a stop.
 
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