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Use D series shift linkage on B series

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by -EndlesS-, Mar 26, 2008.

  1. -EndlesS-

    -EndlesS- New Member

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    Was wondering if anyone might know what measurments to take a d series shift linkage and mount it on b series tranny..

    Please dont tell me what i should or shouldnt use. Im just looking for the measurments if anyone has them.!

    Or if anyone knows where i can better find them please let me know.

    -Thanks
     
  2. BrokenRex

    BrokenRex New Member

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    the reason people don't use the D linkage isn't because of their length, it's because of the way they connect to the transmission. the D uses a MUCH smaller bushing, the B uses the larger one. if you were to cut off the end of the stabilizer link on the B, and weld it to the D, i suspect it would be pretty close to the correct length. all the other connections except for that one are the same.
     
  3. -EndlesS-

    -EndlesS- New Member

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    awesome. thanks alot.
     
  4. BrokenRex

    BrokenRex New Member

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    before you go off and try to make one out of your D, i should warn you that i've never verified this, it was just speculation on the length part. 90-93 integra linkage is very common, can be shortened for little cost, and is the ideal solution. you'd need one to make your hybrid-D linkage anyway, so just shorten the teg one.
     
  5. civicious

    civicious FüK-VTEC VIP

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    The lengths are different as well.


    It's not going to work without a lot of effort, and if you don't get it perfect you're going to have shifting issues. On top of that, you can just buy the right linkage for $75.

    Do it right or don't do it at all.
     
  6. eg6sir

    eg6sir Supa Mod Moderator VIP

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    agreed
     
  7. tunercrazed

    tunercrazed HS Official Hippie

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    :werd:
     
  8. UNDR8D

    UNDR8D ...has a job!

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    Ya, like BrokenRex said you will need the larger end of the stabilizer bar from the b-series linkage anyway, which of course means that you would have to get b-series linkage, in which case you would just use the b-series linkage...hmmm...there is no personal or economic benefit to using the d-series linkage.
     
  9. freak86

    freak86 New Member

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    this is why i bought the hasport linkage.
    but more power to you if you want to try. save some bucko's if you can get it shift smooth and it's reliable.
     
  10. drummingpariah

    drummingpariah Author of the Madness Man

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    That would be quite the trick, I'd say.
     
  11. INJEN78

    INJEN78 HS LEGEND

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    the d series shift linkage needs to be cut about an inch shorter i believe,and then all that bs with the bushings,,my opinion would be to spend the $120 on ebay for the hasport linkage,
    whatever you do,dont get the adjustable linkage that is going around,they are shit
     
  12. UNDR8D

    UNDR8D ...has a job!

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    It's not just the bushing but the whole end is much larger. You would need to cut the end off of a b series stabilizer bar and weld it to the d bar which is counter-productive to say the least...
     
  13. drummingpariah

    drummingpariah Author of the Madness Man

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    Correct. Also, aren't the stabilizer bar and shifter bar switched in a b vs a d? Doesn't the stabilizer go left-front to right-back on one, and right-front to left-back on the other?
     
  14. 031stunna

    031stunna New Member

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    i've got the same ? about the measurments. and no one has givin them on this post. everyone has said something about the rod ends being different sizes( well no shit) i have been told u can shorten the da linkage but no proper measurment and that u can cut and hybrid the ef and da rods but no proper length. i've been told to shorten the da linkage ( 1" 1 1/4" 1 1/2" 1 3/4") big help with 4 different lengths. i know that where the bends are for clearance and what not need to be considered. i personally don't want to or need to buy linkage for i have them both and plan on doing away with the bushings on the trans side anyway. it would be killer if someone knows a proper way to cut the rods and could let some others in on it. i've got other thing on the car that need attention so i'm try not to have to spend to much time makin the linkage myself. if it come to me dealin with the linkage myself by the time i find out i'll post them myself.
     
  15. cnotecivic

    cnotecivic Wagon guy

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    I searched alot for this same question before i shortened my linkage (bseries in '90 civic wagon). The conclusion I reached is that there's no one answer.Mine ended up being 3 3/8" shorter. I just mounted the b linkage at the shifter and centered it (neutral), then measured at the trans. how much to cut. What I did was cut a little extra (about 3 3/4") out of the rods, then used some pieces of 3/4" round stock inside the tubular linkages to reinforce the joint and allow me to fine-tune the length before finish welding. You can cut a little extra if you want to let the shifter lean back if you prefer, but the important thing is to make sure you shorten both rods the SAME amount.
     
  16. cnotecivic

    cnotecivic Wagon guy

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    I say there's no single answer because different mounts will position the engine/trans differently. Mine are HaSport. My firend has the same car, same swap, but his has AZRace mounts and his engine is further back in the bay. Idk what kind of linkage he has, but I bet mine wouldn't interchange. Make sense?
     
  17. D16SiHatch

    D16SiHatch New Member

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    yea the selector rod and stabilizer bar are on opposite sides between the d and b-series. also the angle is diff between the two trans types. if you used a d-series linkage you would not only have to shorten it, but weld the connections at the appropriate angles. you can also see how on a d-series the two bars are right next to eachother. on the b trans the stabilizer bar is set much further back. see pic below.. basically it would be a huge pain in the ass to use a d-linkage so just purchase the thing pre-made or shorten the teg one.

    d-series
    [​IMG]

    b-series
    [​IMG]
     
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