vafc hack

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T

Tonyd0821

Banned
ok. im sick of the blue box for the greddy 15g kit. only getting 175 miles to the tankfull.

gotta go

anyone in here with the Vafc hack, injectors and resistor box encounter any prolbems with their vafc hack?
i would like to know what to reasonably expect from this setup, and Brian dont post a message saying "Well there is a reason why its called a HACK" :lol:


but what kinda problems can i expect to see with the vafc hack?
will it kinda sorta solve my gas guzzling situation?
will i be able to turn up the boost to about 9-10psi intercooled?

etc.

also what are the good qualities of the hack.
i cant afford hondata, but i can afford the hack right now, and the mileage is killing me.

hondata wont be an option till the first of next year.

<<edit>> also, how does the hack keep the map sensor from seeing boost?
and will i also have to get a msd?
 
Hey I was using a S-AFC on my turbo ZC and I was running WAY to damn rich. I was using 450cc DSM injectors and had that b**ch at -50% at idle and my A/F gauge was pegged at rich. I think for the little boost I was running the 450cc were just alittle too big for the ZC. Maybe like 350cc would have been better. When I was driving it was fine still rich but drove fine but at idle it was mad. Also remember don't turbo a car if you want good gas milage even if you use a V-AFC you're still gonna have to pushing almost double the stock injector size. Which by the way what size are you running ? You may be able to better the gas mileage with the AFC but it's still not gonna be all that great. Just my $.02

Also about how does the AFC work. You have a voltage signal going to the MAP sensor. The MAP sensor has to see a certain volt not to throw a code ( CEL ). When you boost your stock sensor it sees ( the map sensor )something is wrong and it's not readding the proper voltage and will throw a code... the AFC just basicly tricks the map sensor to not see the voltage drop and hence tricking it to not see boost and not throw a code. When wiring a AFC you take the map signal wire going to the ECU and cut it and re-wire it so that the signal is now going threw the AFC before it hits the ECU allowing the AFC to " TRICK " the ECU to reading a lower voltage and not see boost. This is also how the AFC adds or decreases the amount of fuel.. it does this threw your MAP sensor. If you were to take you map sensor and just unplug it you'll just be dumping fuel since it's not seeing a voltage and I'm trying to think but I believe the lower the voltage the MAP sees the more fuel it adds. I can better explain it to a person in person then typing it.
 
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