valve job done on my turbo b16a now car cranks wont turn over when put back togethor

[orangemanja]

I just got a valve job done on my turbo b16A2 AND UPGRADED TO 450CC INJECTORS WITH NEW CONNECTORS AND 10OHM 10 AMP INLINE RESISTERS.i put everything back together and the car acts like it wants to start but wont turn over
i checked spark plugs (ngk irridium)
spark plug wire fireing order
battery
fluids
connections
distibuter
cant figure it out ANY IDEAS
i still need to adjust the valves but i was going to do that when it started up
could this be the problem?
or if the timing was incorrect how would i check that ?
what else should i check guys please help
thanks
NEED IDEAS

 

[orangemanja]

i checked all the grounds aswell not it
and the valves you just start it up and listen to the valves to adjust
from what i read and hear atleast

 

[orangemanja]

funny thing is i do have the hayes repair manual and it also says the way i was talking
whats a dizzy man i cant remember

 

[orangemanja]

d

the valves arnt my problem right now and i still do have the valve cover off for that reason man i understand how you adjust them like your saying i was just saying what the manual said the easyist way was
anyways i need more ideas why it wont start

 

[hondasniper]

If you didn't do the valve adjustment before the startup, your valves might be slightly open. Especially if you have aftermarket valves cuz the tips on aftermarket valves are slightly longer than oem. which will decrease the lash drastically. ALWAYS DO A VALVE ADJUSTMENT BEFORE STARTUP WHEN VALVES ARE REPLACED. And do it with a clean feeler gauge.

 

[TurboMirage]

yeah you do a quick cold adjustment and then when the motor is at operating temperature you shut the car off and pop that valve cover off and adjust them again.

 

[handlebarsfsr]

10 ohm resistors, or 100 ohm resistors? it SHOULD be 10 ohm, if its 100, then the car wont work, as the injectors wont open.

 

[orangemanja]

yeah

im thinkin its prolly the timing as well i thought the tdc was correct when i put the belt back on but it may have moved you think this would cause it not to start ill adjust the valves before i try and crank it again to , and the resisters are 10ohms

appreciate the info ill check the timing and let yall know if that fixed it
thanks

 

[orangemanja]

o yeah the car did run before
what you talken bout when you say the lash is out of whack??

 

[orangemanja]

i checked the tdc and it was correct
i started turning the driveshaft with a ratchet counterclockwise and started hearing a air leaking type sound coming from the second cylinder so i guess it was loosing compression
while i was turning the driveshaft i notice that it was also fairly hard to turn it as well is this normal? there was also a light rubbing/squeeling type sound







also i reread what i said before about adjusting the valves and i sounded like a dumbass dont mind me i didnt mean for it to sound like i was going to adjust them with the car started
-

 

[pooptugboat]

if it cranks but wont start, your probably out of time, did you have it at tdc with the arrow on the crank pully pointing tot he line on the block? and did you also have your cams in the up position with the little lines directly accross from eachother?