Valve Stem Seals...

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MaaseyRacer

Senior Member
Alright I changed my oil this morning only to find that I have been burning a shit load of oil. I knew I was burning oil, but not this much. So after a few tests and some driving i have determined that my problem is my valve stem seals. So what I want to know is who hear has changed them, I know it is not that hard, but I want to know what type I should use? Should I use OEM? Should I try some aftermarket teflon kind? Any suggestion from any one would be awesome.

Oh yeah BTW - I have an 89 civic DX with an MPFI swap and a CAI
 
I have changed my own. Use OEM. You have to pull the valve springs and retainers to get the seals off.
 
it is actually a pretty good idea to have a machine shop that has done something like this before because u want them to deck your head boil the head and do at least a 3 angle valve job and at the same time they can pull apart and put together your head with the right tools because u can't get away using your dads lawnmower valve spring compressor. but u probably wont spend more than 350 in labor and it'll be brand new and u can just slap it back on the block. usually places like napa have a few shops to recomend in your local area good luck.
:huh:
 
if u dont know what im talking about when u deck the head u r checking just to make sure that the bottom is true it is a good idea to check every time u remove your head or if u ever had a overheating problem they can warp over time and boiling is a way they take all parts off the head and completely clean it inside and out and usually will put a new seal coating on it so it looks so wonderfully new and scence u have it all apart get a valve job 3 or 5 angle is usually the way people have the valves machined to have them the absolute smoothest longest lasting surface. sweet huh and while u r at it rob a bank and get new cams and springs/retainers u will ad 20 to 40 extra horses depending on type and brand.
<_<
 
Originally posted by junhondasi@Jun 1 2003, 08:42 PM
if u dont know what im talking about when u deck the head u r checking just to make sure that the bottom is true it is a good idea to check every time u remove your head or if u ever had a overheating problem they can warp over time and boiling is a way they take all parts off the head and completely clean it inside and out and usually will put a new seal coating on it so it looks so wonderfully new and scence u have it all apart get a valve job 3 or 5 angle is usually the way people have the valves machined to have them the absolute smoothest longest lasting surface. sweet huh and while u r at it rob a bank and get new cams and springs/retainers u will ad 20 to 40 extra horses depending on type and brand.
<_<

i know what all of it is... it's just a bit of overkill for just replacing the valveseals. and you're not gonna pull 20-40 hp from cams on a 100 hp engine.
 
not if u use jdm but there are claims from jun and skunk 2 that if u do there head kit (type lll) full kit yes u can get that kind of power. I personally gained 47 from the full jun kit on a b16a2 with stock injectors and there computer. (last year) i have a lightly diffrent settup this year 192 to the wheels all motor baby. :worthy:
 
If new seals is all you need (meaning you haven't burned a valve or fuxored you guides) just install new seals. Unless you plan on building this engine. If that is the case then what you have here is a good excuse to start replacing the valve train with better components. :)

There is a huge difference between claiming 40 hp gains from just cams and claiming a 40 hp gain from a head/ecu package.
 
uh yeah i was just going to replace the seals so that the engine would hold me over till i do a swap...
 
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