Valve Train

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

delslow

Member
I have a question about what type of valves springs to use, with 00-01 ITR (CTR) cams. I plan to use this with a turbo setup down the road too and dont plan to do the work over. I looked around and havent found the specific to my question. I saw some guy with a set of Skunk2 valves and he has the Tuner and Pro series. I was going to get the Pro, but he said it not needed. SO I would like a second opionion....
Oh yea, what type of valves do you guys recommended too? (Also, plan to get a full port and polish and plan to taking to 9k-10k RPM)
 
Last edited:
valve springs and boost dont relate what so ever.

cams and valve springs relate. "stock" cams, stock CTR/ITR springs should be sufficent.

Civic Type-R And Integra Type-R(Integra Type R 2000/01 Spec)
Int-243 dur. / 11.5mm lift
Exh-235 dur. / 10.5mm lift
Valve Springs to be used: Stock B16A/GSR if using stock 8200 re-limit. Integra Type-R if using rev limit over 8200rpms. Mugen Valve Springs can also be used.
Description: These are great, reliable cams for the money. You can pick up a set for as little as $550.00 new if you are lucky! They will give good gains from midrange all the way until 8400rpms. These cams have stock idle characteristics.

if your getting a PnP, and you've got the money, go for stainless steel valves with bronze valve guides. it's overkill for the cams, but it will put less strain on the valvetrain.

again, boost and valve springs do not relate. you can run 1000psi of boost on stock valve springs, because they have NOTHING to do with the pressure in the cylinder. seems like people are comming here with that misconception a lot lately.
 
I was always told, if you go boosted, and dont upgrade your valve train that you can drop a valve. I know that you got to get the block built (pistons, rod, and sleeved...etc.) but why not upgrade the head?

About the valves, thanks for the information.
 
well why would you take it to the 9-10k range if it doesnt make power. stock cams arnt going to produce power that high.
 
Alright, so where do most people with the stock cams (Dyno or Street) shift at? And produce 400+ WHP?
 
They mostly look like this, around 7,800~8,100rpm: :D

Main Thread
Honda-Tech.com: Forced Induction: Back With a New Better Built Setup (400Hp B16)

Previous Turbo Setup:
Honda-Tech.com: Forced Induction: Just got back from the dyno....(B16 Turbo)
New Setup:
CP 9:1 Pistons
Eagles Rods
ACL Bearings
New Timing Belt
New OEM Water & Oil Pump
All New OEM Lower Gaskets
AEBS Headstuds
OEM Headgasket
GSR Cams
Kteller 3' Catback
Existing Turbo Setup:
Garrett T3/T04E 60 Trim, .63a/r
AFI Ramhorn A/C Mani
AFI 3' Downpipe, Dumptube
Tial 38mm WG
Tial 50mm BOV
Precision 780cc Injectors
Yonaka Intercooler Type 10 22x9x3-inch
Spoolin PerFormance Intercooler Piping,2.25' Cold, 2' Hot
Turbo Xs Manual Boost Controller
GE Sandwich Plate Adapter
GE Vaccum Mani
Fast-Turbo Oil Line Kit
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
Comp. Stage 4 Sprung Clutch
Defi D Gauges, Boost, Oil Pres., EGT
Apexi Turbo Timer
Numbers: 394.5Hp, 280.9Ft/TQ @19PSI
Tuned On Hondata s200 by Ed at Balanced Performance in Sugar Hill,GA
emthup.gif

Motor Built by Peter From ISP in GA
emthup.gif
emthup.gif

image001ju5.jpg
Taken from page 12 of Honda-Tech.com: Forced Induction: B16a Turbo Setups

see what i'm sayin?
 
I really appericate you hookin me up with that link...I read the entire forum and it help me out a lot! Thanks
 
people want to research and learn about engine building, not deal with a bunch of smart asses. thats easy to copy someones elses answer for a question you know nothing about.

delslow, you don't need to be going 9k-10k and spending the money just to get that high is not worth it. you can make your hp at 8700.

this is a website to learn from not be made fun of for not knowing something, no questions are "silly"
 
Thanks....I just wanted to know what people are running, the reason why they went that route. I seen two types of valve springs from the same manufactor, Skunk2 Pro-Series and Tuner Series. I just wanted to know, which one would I want to run with.
 
people want to research and learn about engine building, not deal with a bunch of smart asses. thats easy to copy someones elses answer for a question you know nothing about.

delslow, you don't need to be going 9k-10k and spending the money just to get that high is not worth it. you can make your hp at 8700.

this is a website to learn from not be made fun of for not knowing something, no questions are "silly"

ok and thanks for bashing my answer. which wasnt an answer to any question at all. it was from a build thread, asking what the people of honda-tech had done. all sorts of people posted the results of their builds.

you realize this is something i know a lot about right?

stock cams are going to give just about the same power band as they did in the stock motor. that person ran GSR cams which only slightly differ. your not going to make power at that high an RPM with OEM spec cams, even if they are CTR/ITR. so there is no need to rev to 9k or beyond. that's the point i was making with the chart.

and he WAS asking a silly question, relating boost to dropping a valve. he didnt ask, should i upgrade my valves if i'm reving to 9k+.

I was always told, if you go boosted, and dont upgrade your valve train that you can drop a valve.

dont come in here yelling and sounding like a dick, just because i'm being rough on him. i'm giving him quality info.
 
Thanks....I just wanted to know what people are running, the reason why they went that route. I seen two types of valve springs from the same manufactor, Skunk2 Pro-Series and Tuner Series. I just wanted to know, which one would I want to run with.

well because your going with stock cams, you dont want too stiff of valve springs, or your putting too much strain on the camshafts. i would go with the tuner series. the pro-series seem too stiff for stockers being that they're rated for high lift cams.
 
well yblegal you aparently know nothing about engine building. boost does have some thing to do with valve springs. AND THIS IS WHY. when you are applying boost to engine the air pressure pushes on the back side of the valve making the spring work harder to keep the valve closed. this does not make a big diffrence on small turbos and low boost put on a large turbo on and put the boost to it guess what you will be floating valves with stock cams and springs when you make boost. o yea i floated valves on a stock gsr head with a gt35r and 22lbs of boost at 5700 rpm how do i know this i could hear this and the car kept loosing power above 5700 rpm put in new springs same cams and valves and guess what that cured my problem
 
I was told a similar thing, that valves will start floating...that why I asked this question.
 
oh i guess because i've never heard of one facet i know nothing. thanks.

i dont know anyone that's run high boost on stock internals, and every motor i've been involved with that's been rebuilt, was being fully rebuilt including agressive cams, warrenting stiff valve springs. that's possibly why i've never heard or seen such a thing. i couldnt find anything relating to it after a quick search on google. u got any links about it?
 
i was talking about the video of how engines work, blanco was being a smart ass and did it with me and you turned around and did it to him.
 
i was talking about the video of how engines work, blanco was being a smart ass and did it with me and you turned around and did it to him.

lol i didnt know blanco did it to you. haha. that vid was fresh in my mind from finding it on youtube (again) and fit what i was trying to get accross tho. sry duder
 
I was just asking a question, that is all. And it seems to be a "silly question" were else am I suppose to come and ask? I been planning to build a motor for a while now, and dont want to run into a bad sitution.
 
Back
Top