vtec minime

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INJEN78

INJEN78

HS LEGEND
ok soo the swap is done on my bros civic..we have a minime(a6blockz6head) now i did it the cheap way and used the a6 mani with inectors,rail,and regulator..with a z6 head,valvecover,vtec sol,cam/gear..now i was wondering if there is anyway to wire vtec without having a vtec harness and ecu....i have the money to buy an rpm swith or vtec controller but i have no idea what ill need to make it work...
 
try getting an ecu that does have the fuel maps for a z6 head, like say a p28. I don't know everything but I do know that just getting the ecu with the maps and wiring the solenoid to it is the cheapest and most effective. and if he plans on doing anything else with it like say building it as an n/a or boosted, then have the ecu chipped and tuned. don't take the easy way out.
 
When people like me for example is on a tight budget...and its fairly easy to do....things i do must go ghetto....I bought an z6 head and waiting to through it in my CRX SI...with the a6 block.....im just gonna ghetto wire....the distributer and vtec....but i got the cam and fpr for adjusting the a/f, p28 got it free for that fact my brother has his leftover from the swap he did....

But I, myself, recommand the safe way and just convert the shiatz....GOODLUCK
 
I HAVE AN IDEA...i wont run vtec until we get the money to convert everything..that way its running and wont blow up:D....thoughts on this???
 
You're going to lose a lot of power without vtec. There's probably other issues but I don't know them, I just know you'll lose power without it.
 
well its not going to be on the road for awhile...my bro stll has to get his license...but onto another problem....

crank puley removal....it is a bitch.ive used an electric impact and air impact...ive sprayed liquid wrench...im about to take heat to it..and then maybe even hit it with a hammer a couple times..any suggestions???

are the threads normal thread or reverse thread??
 
Ah, that fucking bolt. I just went through the same problem about a month ago. What it actually says in the haynes manual to do, is to wedge a screw driver into the flywheel to keep it from moving, and then using a large breaker bar. I assume that the motor is in the car, and the car is not on a lift. What me and my buddy did, was pry back the "dust shield" or whatever from the flywheel, put the car on 2 jack stands, take the tire off, front bumper off, and then I held the screw driver in with all my might, and he pulled on my bumper support and pushed with his feet on the crank pulley bolt with everything he had, and after a good 15 minutes of hell, we got it. This is also because my extensions bent when I had them on so that I could use a pipe extension, so he had to use his feet. Also, make sure you have a few 17mm sockets on hand, I ended up going down to Autozone and buying a set of impact sockets because my 3 craftsman 17mm's broke. You'll be kind of angry when you finally get it out though and realize how small of a bolt it is.


EDIT: This all is after going through the same problem you had for about 2 weeks, I don't know how many cans of WD-40 and liquid wrench I used on it, but it seemed to do nothing. Also, when you put it back in when putting it all back together, make sure you get some blue loc-tite and throw it on there.
 
daveholiday said:
Ah, that fucking bolt. I just went through the same problem about a month ago. What it actually says in the haynes manual to do, is to wedge a screw driver into the flywheel to keep it from moving, and then using a large breaker bar. I assume that the motor is in the car, and the car is not on a lift. What me and my buddy did, was pry back the "dust shield" or whatever from the flywheel, put the car on 2 jack stands, take the tire off, front bumper off, and then I held the screw driver in with all my might, and he pulled on my bumper support and pushed with his feet on the crank pulley bolt with everything he had, and after a good 15 minutes of hell, we got it. This is also because my extensions bent when I had them on so that I could use a pipe extension, so he had to use his feet. Also, make sure you have a few 17mm sockets on hand, I ended up going down to Autozone and buying a set of impact sockets because my 3 craftsman 17mm's broke. You'll be kind of angry when you finally get it out though and realize how small of a bolt it is.


EDIT: This all is after going through the same problem you had for about 2 weeks, I don't know how many cans of WD-40 and liquid wrench I used on it, but it seemed to do nothing. Also, when you put it back in when putting it all back together, make sure you get some blue loc-tite and throw it on there.
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i really do not want ot have to do this....is there any other way!!!!plz plz plz

the motor is in the car.the car is on jackstands..fuck that bolt..one thing left to do and it wont fuckin cooperate
 
INJEN78 said:
i really do not want ot have to do this....is there any other way!!!!plz plz plz

the motor is in the car.the car is on jackstands..fuck that bolt..one thing left to do and it wont fuckin cooperate
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How long have you been trying to get the bolt out?
I tried every day for 2 weeks. Wanted to take my torque wrench to the windshield every day for 2 weeks. In the haynes manual, this is how they do it, and they're pros at that shit. That's what worked for me, so I'd assume it's the best way.
 
daveholiday said:
How long have you been trying to get the bolt out?
I tried every day for 2 weeks. Wanted to take my torque wrench to the windshield every day for 2 weeks. In the haynes manual, this is how they do it, and they're pros at that shit. That's what worked for me, so I'd assume it's the best way.
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lol everyday for a little over 2 weeks...im getting pissed and want to junk the whol car..its bullshit....damnit well im gonna give it a try today i guess...how the hell does the front bumper come off....i bought the car and it had a bodykit soo i need to take it of anyway
 
I thought it was your brothers car?
Well regardless, I know exactly what you mean. As far as the bumper, there's I believe 5 10 mm bolts right under the hood, the one on the far left and right you have to take the corner lights out (1 screw each) to get to, and the 4 phillips head plastic screws, 2 in each wheel well, you'll probably have to turn the wheel that you're at inward, and I believe thats all. There may be an easier way to do this, but this is what worked for us since we needed something solid to hold onto. Also, if there's a body kit on it, there may be more/less screws depending on the type of body kit (fiber glass, ABS plastic, etc.) and depending on the quality of the install.
 
it is my brothers car..i meant when he bought the car..i refer to it as my car becuase he doesnt really work on it lol...and thanx for the info on the install....they did a shitty job but ill see what is going on with it..were going to try to heat the bolt first
then if that doent work well go to the last resort
 
im about done with that bullshit...nothing will get it off....is there anything i can do to make it come off?!!?maybe bring it to a shop??
 
Do what I said. If you go to autozone and buy a manual for your car, thats what it will tell you to do. If you take it to a shop, they will charge you a ton of money for about 5 minutes of work, and they will do what the manual said to do.
 
i have the manual...and i think its just because the impact guns i have arent strong enough...i really am not looking forward to doing the oldschool method but i guess it worth a shot
 
Blanco said:
Yeah, I was about to say that you need a stronger impact wrench.
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im soo fed up with the bullshit weve had with this car....its like..not worth the aggrivation but yet..were soo close to being done...i just have to put a new t-belt and we try to fire it up...the car has been sitting for a long ass time..and i hate to see cars like that..especially hondas
 
buy the nicest impact wrench at lets say Sears or somthing, use it to take the bolt off and return it tellin them i didn't work.
 
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