tylonalsnifnfool
Senior Member
would it be possible to put a VTEC head on a 1.6L DOHC ZC?
VTEC ZC
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endlesszeal
Senior Member
i doubt it.. since ZCs are from different castings for the Dseries and Bseries.. correct me if im wrong.
Time to clear up a bunch of misinformation...
Read above... and once you have the Z6 head on the SOHC ZC, you'll have the strength of the SOHC VTEC engine with the better oiling of the SOHC ZC / D16A6 crank. The 88-91 D16A6 (and SOHC ZC) have the best bottom ends out of the D series blocks.
Originally posted by the fool+?-->the fool @ ?) said:
Unless you really want to play around in the machine shop and cobble things together, no.
You're wrong. The DOHC ZC is a D series block.
Yup- the only DOHC VTEC head for the inline fours is the B, H, and K block heads.
Not always. There IS a SOHC ZC non-VTEC that's actually stamped ZC from the factory. I have one under the hood of my CRX. It's not a D16Z6 that everyone likes to call a ZC.
Yes you can. The SOHC ZC is basically a D16A6. The short blocks are definitely identical. I've pulled my SOHC ZC apart and seen the PM6 markings on the pistons. You can drop a SOHC VTEC D16 head on the SOHC ZC and make it a mini-me.
Blanco@?
I don't believe so. But you can buy a D16Z6, SOHC VTEC, for around $3-400. And the Z6 has way more aftermarket backing.
Read above... and once you have the Z6 head on the SOHC ZC, you'll have the strength of the SOHC VTEC engine with the better oiling of the SOHC ZC / D16A6 crank. The 88-91 D16A6 (and SOHC ZC) have the best bottom ends out of the D series blocks.
SleEPeR_CRX
Senior Member
good work calesta, u beat me to 'er
ProspeedCTR
Junior Member
True
Originally posted by SleEPeR_CRX+?-->SleEPeR_CRX @ ?) said:
good work calesta, u beat me to 'er
:roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:
Like you would have given the right answers anyway. <_<
Blanco@?
Schveet. I've seen you talk about the A6/Z6 mini-me and building it up. If I remember correctly, something like 12:1 compression and 130-150whp. I'd love to do that, but I live in Cali so I'll just have to swap my A6 out and into my DX
Is it possible to get the same compression and hp numbers from building a Z6 as from the mini-me?
I'm actually shooting for something closer to 160whp if I can manage it... Since you're in California, just build up a Z6. You'll still be street legal, and yes you can make the same amount of power. The only major difference between the Z6 and A6 short blocks is the oiling in the crankshaft- the A6 has more oiling passages than the Z6 and Y8 cranks. I've seen plenty of examples of Z6 and Y8 engines making tons of power at 8000+ rpm while staying reliable, so I wouldn't worry about the oiling as much. I just prefer to keep the older bottom end for peace of mind.
The reason why people want to go "mini-me" is mostly because they don't have to pull the entire engine, or they want to bump up their compression without changing pistons. I'm going to bump up my compression by using both the smaller combustion chambers in the head (you already have that with a Z6 engine) and higher compression DOHC ZC pistons. If you build up a Z6 engine and use DOHC ZC pistons, you'll have the exact same compression. The only difference between my bottom end buildup and yours would really be just the crankshaft oiling... and that's not too big of a deal. Oh- and the fact that mine will still say "ZC" on the block. I want to keep that.
So build your Z6- it will be just as good as any modded mini-me setup.
tylonalsnifnfool
Senior Member
building up a d16z6 was my original plan but i was just trying to explore some other ideas. If i turbo charge a d16z6 then it is gonna be plenty fast. I'm gonna try to build it up to at least 200hp.
You can get 200whp boosted on a stock internal Z6 with good tuning and a simple intercooled bolt on turbo kit. It's not hard. If you want to turbo your ZC, you can get pretty close to that too.
It's really a tossup between spending the money and trouble to build up your D block or spending a little more cash and getting the B16. Your D16 build that you listed (looks mostly good) would probably cost you close to the price of a B16 and put down about about the same or less power to the ground as a modded B16 with no internal block work. Price things out and see where that takes you, then decide from there. With that list of parts, you're not going to be any cheaper on the D than the B... but you'll get the assurance that the D block is good from the inside out- providing you put it together well.
The B16 has more potential for power later, but it's all up to how much money you want to spend... drop in the B and have about 145whp with I/H/E, or build the D to hell and have maybe 160whp. That's pretty much the limit of the D all motor until you get into head work and fancy tuning, but bolt a standard turbo kit onto the B16 later and you have a 250whp monster.
To critique your list:
Don't bother changing cranks... you'll have to start spec'ing out new bearings and everything. Pain in the ass if you want to do it "right."
If you're converting to OBD1, you need the OBD1 ECU. You won't be able to tune, but a better alternative might be to use your PM6 ECU and drop a VAFC on top. You get VTEC activation and tuning capability at the same time. That's what I'm doing. It's a lot easier than converting everything, paying for new harnesses, and chipping your ECU.
If you're going to use ZEX's 59300 cam, you should upgrade the valvetrain. The 59100 runs on stock valvetrain (I think), but the higher lift/duration unit really should have some more strength backing it.
The B16 has more potential for power later, but it's all up to how much money you want to spend... drop in the B and have about 145whp with I/H/E, or build the D to hell and have maybe 160whp. That's pretty much the limit of the D all motor until you get into head work and fancy tuning, but bolt a standard turbo kit onto the B16 later and you have a 250whp monster.
To critique your list:
Don't bother changing cranks... you'll have to start spec'ing out new bearings and everything. Pain in the ass if you want to do it "right."
If you're converting to OBD1, you need the OBD1 ECU. You won't be able to tune, but a better alternative might be to use your PM6 ECU and drop a VAFC on top. You get VTEC activation and tuning capability at the same time. That's what I'm doing. It's a lot easier than converting everything, paying for new harnesses, and chipping your ECU.
If you're going to use ZEX's 59300 cam, you should upgrade the valvetrain. The 59100 runs on stock valvetrain (I think), but the higher lift/duration unit really should have some more strength backing it.
