want to ditch the blue box.....

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Tonyd0821

Banned
can someone tell me where i can buy a used Vortech FMU and how reliable a used fmu is?

also, where can i get a used missing link?
and what should i expect to pay for both used?

and what are the negatives of running a 10:1 vortech fmu plus missing link over the greddy blue box?


<<edit>> im still @ 5.5psi, but as soon as the ic i ordered comes in (along with a weekend of free time) im going to turn the boost back up to 10psi...

will a 10:1 fmu suffice @ 10psi?
 
thnks afi....i was allready lookin on ebay tho. just wondering if anyone on hondaswap was selling one. preferably a regular, not some n00b. (safer that way)

anyone know if 10:1 will suffice for 10psi on a 15g turbo?
 
if i could post whore in my own thread for a minute....

upon reviewing what the missing link looks like....

all it is is a piece of cnc aluminum correct?

is the missing link electronic or mechanical?

i could just have my neighbor who owns a maching shop machine me one of those suckers for a couple of bucks....

i know what the missing link does, (blocks map sensor from seeing boost)
but i always thought it was electronic, and it somehow interfaced with the actual map sensor...

the one i was looking at says you just attach it to the tbody and its done....

ebay
 
why don't you get a set of big injectors and a Uberchipped ECU or hondata? FMUs are ghetto.

Edit: in case this suggestion wasn't clear, the Uberchip can read boost and comensate with more fuel and adjusted timing just like a hondata. What you don't get are hondata's quality tools and support, along with the pricetag.
 
that is the most horrible advice I have ever heard.


First of all, an FMU is pretty much the worst delivery setup ever. It's going to accelerate wear on your motor, since the a/f sways from perfect very often. Howver, it is not SO bad that your motor is going to blow up in a week. They do work, and they have the potential to run "well enough". Saying that it is the "worst" setup doesn't mean it doesn't work at all.

My advice for you : forget FMUs exist and do the VAFC Hack. Much more control.
My best advice : buy a hondata base unit w/boost and get someone elses d16/greddy map. Have it tweaked at a local shop since your in CA.

thats all.
 
3 things:

1. Hondata = chipped ECU with a PIC microcontroller for copy protection! Call that ghetto too loudly and pissedoffsol will lead the hondata mafia to come punch you in the face. :) We ALL know hondata kicks ass. Don't question the word of god, man.

2. If liquidmeth says its ghetto, you better lookout for ppl flinging their empty fotees at you or the local hoochie mama sayin you her baby's mama.

3. what meth says is true - the AFC hack will give you much more adjustibility than a FMU. What he fails to mention/does not know is that the AFC hack gives you zero control over timing, and advances the high end timing under boost in a potentially dangerous manner. This is where a chipped ECU (either on its own with a boost program or with a stock program aware of AFC/SMC/voltage dividers) can come in to adjust the timing back to sane points.
 
hondata mang you wont regret it :thumbsup:
oh and the missing link to my knowledge is mechanical get goes under the map sensor and bleeds of the pressure before it gets in the sensor
:thumbsup:
 
typically a "chipped ecu" is some hack program that lets you run rich all the time, and has no adjustability as far as timing goes. The +- 8-10 degress your distributor gives you should be plenty when running on 93 octane, especially with the addition of an intercooler
 
FMU = blue box.
they are the same damn thing more or less, only the blu ebox has a built in electronic "missing link"

even with a chipped ecu, honda ecu's still dont know what the hell to do with a boost reading, and throw a code.
there are two ways to prevent this:
- missing link. its basically a ball in spring, a check valve. missing link just happens to be a pretty good one. cheap ones often don't let off pressure fast enough and still allow the map to see too much boost and throw a code.
- vafc hack. by running larger injectors, and running them at -30%, the reading from the map sensor is false, but even though boosting, the computer doesn't think so due to the voltage that is being sent back to the ecu.

if you're looking to upgrade-
the vafc hack is the next step up
then hondata

cuz frankly, i'd say the blu ebox is MORE advanced than an FMU could ever be.
 
Originally posted by Tonyd0821@Sep 14 2003, 04:32 PM
if i could post whore in my own thread for a minute....

upon reviewing what the missing link looks like....

all it is is a piece of cnc aluminum correct?

is the missing link electronic or mechanical?

i could just have my neighbor who owns a maching shop machine me one of those suckers for a couple of bucks....

i know what the missing link does, (blocks map sensor from seeing boost)
but i always thought it was electronic, and it somehow interfaced with the actual map sensor...

the one i was looking at says you just attach it to the tbody and its done....

ebay

With stock injectors, get a 12:1 fmu. Thats what I ran on the d15, and it worked out ok.

However 10psi seems to be past the generally accepted 7-8 psi limit that most people stick to. Keep in mind that there have been cars pushing 300whp on the fmu...search h-t to see what i'm talking about

Missing links can be either electronic or mechanical, the electroic ones are in essence voltage clamps that block off voltage once the map sensor reads boost, and i'd recommend buying one rather than trying to have one machined. I think you will find it to be difficult to get a good fit if you DIY.

typically a "chipped ecu" is some hack program that lets you run rich all the time, and has no adjustability as far as timing goes.


You are stereotyping what you think is a chipped ecu, while you really have no idea what it means or how "chips" work
the eeprom you will use to chip your ecu DOES have the ability to adjust timing, in boost and out of it. It controls the entire fuel curve, and many other things

honda ecu's still dont know what the hell to do with a boost reading, and throw a code


depending on the rom you use, there will be no code thrown :)
 
The two most popular ROMeditors at PGMFI for OBD1 ECUs (Uberdata/ERM and Crome) both support boost.

Some screenshots of Uberdata: (notice the last 5 columns)

uberdata_flat.jpg


uberdata_2d.jpg


Edit: I'm aware this ROM is VERY VERY VERY poorly tuned. No need to flame.
 
ok, I actually do know plenty about how computers work, being a computer engineering major and all. Nobody said Uberchip or anything like that. TYPICALLY people are using "chipped" ecus that are non adjustable, cause the motor to run rich, disable codes, remove gov... the gay Ebay ones. Its been straightened out now, but in the future maybe be a little more specific instead of just saying a "chipped ECU" which is about as specific as saying put a "gasoline motor" in the car.
 
Originally posted by liquid00meth@Sep 16 2003, 05:06 PM
ok, I actually do know plenty about how computers work, being a computer engineering major and all. Nobody said Uberchip or anything like that. TYPICALLY people are using "chipped" ecus that are non adjustable, cause the motor to run rich, disable codes, remove gov... the gay Ebay ones. Its been straightened out now, but in the future maybe be a little more specific instead of just saying a "chipped ECU" which is about as specific as saying put a "gasoline motor" in the car.

hmmm that's funny... I sell ECUs on eBay... So that means I don't know what I'm doing? =)

I use a more sophisticated rom editor than you could ever imagine... (I wrote it myself, gettin nitty gritty with the assembly code)

Gay eBay ones eh? You should try one of my custom programs... You'll probably nut yourself... =)

James
 
Originally posted by pissedoffsol@Sep 16 2003, 06:19 AM
FMU = blue box.
they are the same damn thing more or less, only the blu ebox has a built in electronic "missing link"
............................

cuz frankly, i'd say the blu ebox is MORE advanced than an FMU could ever be.

alls im lookin for is to get rid of that fucking rich fuel map that the blue box gives me.


i filled up with gas this morning. i went from my house to p.v. (10 miles) (ok...i was kinda sorta in boost alot in traffic.....) and back.

im allready @ 3/4 full on the gas tank.


i guess im going hack then. i just did not want to hassle (time constraints) with the injectors and resistor box.

but guess im going to have to after reading what some of you guys are saying...
 
Originally posted by Tonyd0821+Sep 16 2003, 05:20 PM-->
pissedoffsol
@Sep 16 2003, 06:19 AM
FMU = blue box.
they are the same damn thing more or less, only the blu ebox has a built in electronic "missing link"
............................

cuz frankly, i'd say the blu ebox is MORE advanced than an FMU could ever be.

alls im lookin for is to get rid of that fucking rich fuel map that the blue box gives me.


i filled up with gas this morning. i went from my house to p.v. (10 miles) (ok...i was kinda sorta in boost alot in traffic.....) and back.

im allready @ 3/4 full on the gas tank.


i guess im going hack then. i just did not want to hassle (time constraints) with the injectors and resistor box.

but guess im going to have to after reading what some of you guys are saying...

you DO currently have 310 cc injectors installed, right?

the ecu should run those fairly well....ditch the blue box and strap on a 10:1 fmu...run 7-8 maybe 9 psi and call it a day :)

you will get very good mpg out of boost and the in boost mpg should be better than with the box
 
or, if you don't want to deal with the resistor box, get some saturated injectors.
 
*shakes head* I'm not even going to bother. Your missing my point.

---->people use "chipped ECU" as a misnomer <-----

They are not using "chipped ECUs" at all. Thats all. thats it. You guys are talking to me like I've never heard of a fuckin ROM editor.
 
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