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[ my lil bro just had bmw suspension put on his 99 teg, shit handles nasty...

Details and/or pics on that? I find that statement somewhat hard to believe. For the cost of customizing a BMW suspension to fit on a completely different make of car you could probably have a killer suspension setup for the Integra using after-market parts specifically made for the Teg. What you're describing doesn't even make sense...
 
Koni/GC >>>>BMW suspension

Know why I know? Because all the guys I know racing M3's are running that setup. Swapping over BMW suspension is a complete waste of time.
 
me personally....I wouldn't wanna swap brands with parts sounds like a chore to me. but on a side note I had a buddy I worked with at my last store, he had a jeep he built for rock crawling, a 700 whp talon tsi, and a 91 galant that was his daily driver/track car. He swapped over a full evo 8 suspension on that car and it handled beautifully.
 
me personally....I wouldn't wanna swap brands with parts sounds like a chore to me. but on a side note I had a buddy I worked with at my last store, he had a jeep he built for rock crawling, a 700 whp talon tsi, and a 91 galant that was his daily driver/track car. He swapped over a full evo 8 suspension on that car and it handled beautifully.

That's different though. He at least kept it in the family. An EVO suspension can probably be mostly bolted-in to a Galant. It's like putting an ITR suspension into a Civic. Putting a BMW suspension into an Integra though? I doubt that's bolt-in, and like I said, for the cost of doing it you could just have a nice after-market suspension made specifically for the Integra that will outperform the BMW suspension anyway. Totally pointless...
 
thats what i said. I wouldn't swap brands. putting a bmw suspension on a honda seems like something that would be a retarded amount of work/money when I can just buy the aftermarket parts that are built to do what I want my car to do. and the evo 8 suspension did bolt right up. the only thing is it didn't have brackets (for lack of a better word) to hold the brake lines and such. so he them zip tied off. would an ITR suspension be worth the money?
 
imagine more negative camber on the front wheels and less on the back...

i am pretty sure this is what you want... more negative at the front since the front l0seees0l a larger amount of force in the corners. i personally would skip the camber kit (for now) and mark (white dots where the sidewall meets the tread) the tires to see where and how they are working in the corners. don't forget proper tire pressure...

with coil overs you can have a great street height for combined tire wear and handling. at the track you can lower a bit more for increased -neg camber. i would worry more about getting the toe correct when adjusting ride height.

am i right? :)
 

whats with the wide eyes? what thread did that even come from? lol

As for an update: I switched sizes on the rims I am going with 15"s. Cut the cost too. :D Unfortunely I also hit a snag, turns out I have a crack in my manifold on the motor I just swapped in. that sucks. oh well I guess I have my next upgrade in mind. The shop didn't say which manifold, but I assume it is my intake manifold. if not then I am in good shape, I just bought headers I have yet to install.
 
holy crap...

ok...

first and foremost, get a rule book for the races you want to enter.

A) you need a NASA or SCAA license to race wheel to wheel. to get said license, you need several HPDE events under your belt and a racing school course that's accredited.
b) you will need a full cage, external kill switch, fire system, hans device, sfi approved harnesses, helmet, etc.
c) you're stupid built, and you will be in H1 in the honda challenge (anywhere from s2000's to modded nsx class...) which means you probably won't be remotely competitive.
d) 17"s are for ricers



i think you need to totally re-think what you built the car for and what you want to do with it. So, like i said, get a rule book. find the local track that you run at... find their events calander... find the HPDE days... and try to get into it. Most HPDE days are $150-$250, and more if theres classroom or instructors involved.

And then, there's a lot of clubs tha tput on hpde's that don't even allow non-factory turbo cars. so you're screwed again.
 
so you don't like my trans am because it is a Pontiac? that sucks.


i just personally would not own one, and if given i would be excited to sell it for some extra cash. :) but i have to remind myself that i have a 79 mercury capri (5-o) gathering sunlight at my father's place... is this an older trans am? what do you like about the car? i was working at a tire store years ago and a guy had an '87 mustang built for road racing and it inspired me to keep the capri... plus it is kind of rare in the RS form. wide eyes were kind of for fun :)
 
its an 80. its not old enough in my eyes I wanted a 67-70 body style but that fell through and I found this car. It is pretty much prepped to start a drag car. It is completely gutted, door panels and all, I need to reset the glass in the doors, reupholster the seats, find a new front bumper and reinstall the alternator, and power steering pump. Other than that it runs good. I took the alternator out to get tested, and replaced the power steering pump.
 
whoa whoa whoa. man this got a little outta hand. I'm not building some full track car. I am building a car I can take to the local track and run some sessions on the weekends. Its still going to be a daily driver. I'm not going to do a full cage and a kill switch and all that nonsense. None of that is required not to run races. This isn't about building a race car at all the only thing I will be racing is my own times. I am most interested in improving my own driving skill. As I mentioned before If I was to build a track car it wouldn't be a 4 door. That would defeat the purpose. I would build a little crx, or hatchback. Smaller, lighter body would be better for that anyhow.
 
Details and/or pics on that? I find that statement somewhat hard to believe. For the cost of customizing a BMW suspension to fit on a completely different make of car you could probably have a killer suspension setup for the Integra using after-market parts specifically made for the Teg. What you're describing doesn't even make sense...


he lives in cali, so i can ask him to send pics to me..
2nd.. you dont ave to believe it, one of our cousins works at a shop in bellflower
the dude whom put them on had them set up for his teg and it fell through so they put them on my lil bro's car....

whether or not you believe it is not relevant to my statement....

so yup
 
you know whats funny, if someone say's something. Rather then say o' ok not my cup o tea. Everyone gets into this insult fest.. Who cares your opinion there like assholes , everyone has one and they all stink.

Did your mother not tell you, if you aint got nothing nice to say dont say anything at all....

A good portion of people ripping on others plan's or dreams drive buckets of shit anyhow...

so have a nice glass of " Monday's and move on with it".
 
with coil overs you can have a great street height for combined tire wear and handling. at the track you can lower a bit more for increased -neg camber. i would worry more about getting the toe correct when adjusting ride height.

am i right? :)

:no:
well... "not really"

do a lot of people use adjustable coilovers that way? yeah
is it what they are meant for? no

adjustable coilovers are not about ride height... you can do that with regular non adjustable springs...
adjustable coilovers are primarily designed so that you can corner balance your car while adding a minimal amount of static weight to get this done... there are still instances where to get the proper balance and weight distribution you are looking for, you will still want or need to add weight to an area of the car (not uncommon to see actual plate style gym weights bolted on a bar welded to the floor of the car)... and corner balancing is not usually about getting even distribution either... you can and usually will dial in a bias... meaning on a track with more turns in one direction than another, you will usually dial in more weight on one side of the car to keep the car flatter through those corners... you will sacrifice performance when turning the other direction, but as long as you more than make up for it on the corners you are weighted for then its all good...

another thing about corner balancing is its not something you do once and never have to do again
much like an alignment it needs to be checked and touched up on a pretty regular basis (the more serious you are the more often it needs to be done... track cars are corner balanced before every race to the needs of the specific track)

any time anything is changed in the car... you will need to rebalance it
if your weight fluctuates more than a few lbs... you will need to rebalance it
if you make any adjustments to the ride height for any reason... you will need to rebalance it
if you have a passenger(s) your car is no longer balanced
if you dont have your weight in the drivers seat when you get it balanced... when your driving it... its not balanced

now im not saying you cant get coilovers... by all means do whatever the hell you want... but if you are not tuning them correctly, you're wasting your time and money
 
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