what is a good swap?

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right swaps

i had a 00 prelude SH and some guy rear ended me at like 50 so i swappd the H22a4SH into a 92 civic hatch. it is very fast, prob 0 to 60 in a little over 4 seconds stock, though depending on the right ECU u decide to use, i got lucky and didnt have to buy the engine which my engine is a pretty hefty price. u can still find the old H22a from 93-97 preludes that have 190hp or the S type which are the red tops that still has balls for not that much around 1500, but the prices of the H series have gone done in the market since K20s have came out. do not swap a B16,B20 or any D series, they are pieces of shit and youll waste ur money for the power u get. defenitely either go with the H22 or the B18C1 from GSRs which has like 180hp, but the H22 is way more of a better engine, yet it is the hardest swap, and the B18C1 is the next step below. to swap the H22 youll need about 1500-2000 for parts and bullshit youll run into, cause u will, it always happens, and whatever u buy the engine for, 1000-3000. youll need to get custom axles, shiftlifters(most times they some with the engine),after markert suspension, motor mounts, new wire harness(ECU), take out the power steering and AC, and more than likely after market 4-2-1, and an ECU. the only major problem with the H22a4 is that they have an EGR valve( its recycles emisions through your intake and exhaust) it is not needed and if you leave it on it cloggs up ur ports in ur intake and thats a bitch if u dont get it taken care of immediately. the ECUs that are for H22s are the P13 and P28OBD1, do not go with them cause the still register the EGR valve and ur engine will run in limp or safety mode, A.K.A no balls. u can either weld it closed(not advised) or get a JDM P72 OBD1 that come out of GSRs straight from japan. it doesnt look for the EGR valve and adds hp also lengthens your vtec and redlines at 8000, fuel cut off is around 8200 stock. im tellin u man i just got done with the process, liten to me, if u want to swap go with the H22 or B18C1, its gonna cost some money but after ur done its worth it. ive seen so many other swaps that aint shit compared to those two engines, like i said its some hard work by urself and ur gonna run into problems but trust me bro, u will smoke mustangs sleeping, i have roasted them by like 4 or 5 car lengths not evn gettin out of 2nd gear, even GTs but u got to know ur car well. youll be impressed, good luck......
 
greymatter said:
i had a 00 prelude SH and some guy rear ended me at like 50 so i swappd the H22a4SH into a 92 civic hatch. it is very fast, prob 0 to 60 in a little over 4 seconds stock, though depending on the right ECU u decide to use, i got lucky and didnt have to buy the engine which my engine is a pretty hefty price. u can still find the old H22a from 93-97 preludes that have 190hp or the S type which are the red tops that still has balls for not that much around 1500, but the prices of the H series have gone done in the market since K20s have came out. do not swap a B16,B20 or any D series, they are pieces of shit and youll waste ur money for the power u get. defenitely either go with the H22 or the B18C1 from GSRs which has like 180hp, but the H22 is way more of a better engine, yet it is the hardest swap, and the B18C1 is the next step below. to swap the H22 youll need about 1500-2000 for parts and bullshit youll run into, cause u will, it always happens, and whatever u buy the engine for, 1000-3000. youll need to get custom axles, shiftlifters(most times they some with the engine),after markert suspension, motor mounts, new wire harness(ECU), take out the power steering and AC, and more than likely after market 4-2-1, and an ECU. the only major problem with the H22a4 is that they have an EGR valve( its recycles emisions through your intake and exhaust) it is not needed and if you leave it on it cloggs up ur ports in ur intake and thats a bitch if u dont get it taken care of immediately. the ECUs that are for H22s are the P13 and P28OBD1, do not go with them cause the still register the EGR valve and ur engine will run in limp or safety mode, A.K.A no balls. u can either weld it closed(not advised) or get a JDM P72 OBD1 that come out of GSRs straight from japan. it doesnt look for the EGR valve and adds hp also lengthens your vtec and redlines at 8000, fuel cut off is around 8200 stock. im tellin u man i just got done with the process, liten to me, if u want to swap go with the H22 or B18C1, its gonna cost some money but after ur done its worth it. ive seen so many other swaps that aint shit compared to those two engines, like i said its some hard work by urself and ur gonna run into problems but trust me bro, u will smoke mustangs sleeping, i have roasted them by like 4 or 5 car lengths not evn gettin out of 2nd gear, even GTs but u got to know ur car well. youll be impressed, good luck......
Click to expand...
what ever you do dont lisn to this guy only about 3% of what he said is true,..just give us your budget and goals and ill get you there
 
hmmm H22 swap needs aftermarket suspension?? i didnt think 30lbs made that much of a difference lol (over a B series swap that is)...... also the H22a4 is junk, it was pretty much the economy of the H22's.....i mean me personally id do a H22 build.... cus you can purchase a decent H22a (or get a F22 block and drop on a H22a head) slap a turbo at low psi and have a good time..... i mean cus by the time you build a D series and invest crazy amounts of cash into it you can just have a decent power and be pretty quick..... it all depends on how fast you really wanna make it

H22a...some fun facts of that motor:


H22A
The H22A debuted in 1993 for use in the Honda Prelude VTEC as the H22A1. Versions of the H22A would be the Prelude's signature high-performance engine worldwide until the end of Prelude production in 2001. It was also used in the 1994–1997 Honda Accord SiR and 1998–2002 Honda Accord Euro-R in Japan (however different cams and lightweight crank were used in the Euro R H22A). The H22A in the Prelude Type-S and CL1 Euro-R came with the trademark red crackle finish valve cover.

Specifications
Bore × Stroke: 87.0 × 90.70 mm
Displacement: 2157 cc (132 cu. in.)
Valve Configuration: DOHC, 16 valves, VTEC
Type: In-line 4 cylinder, aluminum block and head
Compression ratio: 10.0:1 (North America); 10.6–11.0:1 (Japan)
Max power: 190PS (CD6 Accord); 200PS (BB1/4/6 Prelude SiR's); 220PS (Euro-R & Prelude Type-S) (142–164 kW)
Max torque: 156–163 ft·lbf (207–217 Nm)
Redline: 7500 rpm
Engine Control System: Honda Systems PGM-FI with port fuel injection
Valve Gear: Belt-driven dual overhead cams, 4 valves per cylinder, variable timing and lift
 
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When did this become an H vs B vs D thread?

Quit blowing your horn and trying to make it known that you have some knowledge or can copy and paste other's knowledge.

If you are looking for something cheap go with the D and get an ex tranny off a y8 or z6 because it will make a noticeable difference and is worth the extra couple bucks. They are cheap, a straight forward swap and will give you about 20hp more over the y7.

If you want to spend a little more go with the H22. They are definitely the hardest to install but will give you about 85hp over the y7. They cost about the same as a b16 when you are done.

If you want to spend even more go with a B16A or B18C. They are a little more work to put in over the D because you need to swap a couple mounts and easier then the H which require cutting the floor etc. but will give you about 65-75hp more over the y7.
 
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I'm not even gonna read some of these posts because they're just giving out misinformation.

A) DO NOT put an H series in your car

B) All B series motors are capable or a very comforting amount of power. Even the b18b1 turboed, which is my personal favorite. I've build a couple of them.

C) D series motors are bottom of the line but yes they can also make decent power with forced induction. Regardless a y8 or z6 is definitely an upgrade to your CX. I had a cx hatch and it's retardly slow.

D)I highly recommend upgrading the trans as well if you go with the D series, you will lose a lot of potential using the extremely long geared trans in the CX
 
it all depends on your own taste and wants, and there is so many things you can do to any honda or ac engine, just watch your money limits, everyone thnks they know everything and its very easy to fuck up a swap. built engines using different blocks and heads are badass if you know what ur doing, it all depends on your style, one more thing what is up with people into SOHC engines THEY ARE WEAK, even turboed is such a waste of money for the power you get...........WEAK
 
NO WAY!

A vitara turbo d pushing 400whp is no waste. Those little d's can be built SUPER cheap and can make HUGE power for little cash compared to their B series counterparts.

D series are not a waste of cash. If I could go back and do it again I would do a d vitara setup turboed.

FAKLAD
 
Greymatter please just stop posting now. Your opinions are wrong and misinformed
 
92civicb18b1 said:
A) DO NOT put an H series in your car
Click to expand...

No elaboration on that? I'm guessing you're against it because of the weight issue? As was mentioned by someone else, it's really not much of an issue at all, like 30-40 lbs over a B-series engine.

Look at it this way:

B16/B18 - 160-170 horsepower, 110-130 lbs/tq

H22 - 200 horsepower, 160 lbs/tq

The extra 30-40 lbs really isn't going to make much difference in the long run, especially for that kind of a power and torque gain for the same price or less than a GS-R swap.

Just my .02 cents here. I'm not criticizing you, I just think if you're gonna say stuff like that you should state a reason for it.

EDIT: And yes, greymatter, please shut up, you're spreading mis-information.
 
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Brutal thanks for agreeing that the H22 is a decent option

honestly i just think a F22 bottom end with a H22 head with lil bit of boost will be a good combo and yet still reliable..... but eh to each is there own i guess
 
Shit if you don't want more than 400whp then just go D-series. Period.

D-series is the cheapest way to reach 400whp or in between whatever your goal is because even if you went B-series you'd still have to build that too to make 400whp even tho you could make more but it's till a lot more to build a B-series.
 
Wonder how the jdm d15b vtec handles boost...guess I'll find out :D. Only costs $400-500 for a new shortblock anyway.
 
i know this isnt the place to sell my shit but if you are interested in an h22 swap i have the entire swap for a civic with everything you need except its obd1 and the mounts are for eg but a jumper harness and some $200 mounts on ebay and you'd be good to go im letting it go for $1700 thats axels, shifter, cables, everything. if an h22 is something your interested in...
 
No the only reason I say don't is you have to beat the hell out of the engine bay iirc. I personally wouldn't put one in my car, too much work and it has a cable shifter.
 
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