what is better a b20vtech or a gsr

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shaun

Member
I have a two door civic and I want to get a swap but I wanted to know which is better a b20 vtech or a gsr swap? Which ever one I choose I will be getting rods, pistons, flywheel, and new clutch first before I put it in so which one do you think will be better? Also stock does anyone know the hp/tq of a b20 vtech , I know the gsr is 180/129? Also tell me something other than the walls are thin on a b20 vtech please. My purpose is to get to 13.00 in the quarter eventually, this will be a everyday driven car. Also which ever motor I get I will be turbo charged in the summer, or should I get a b16a2 now and turbo that with a new clutch and flywheel and do the rods, pistons, and sleeve it in the summer? Options please
 
Yeah, I'd go with the GSR for the reliability issue. Plus, alot of people have been able to make alot of power from 'em, so you'll be able to get help from them. Good luck.
 
neither.....LS, turbo it or make it a franky (LSvtec). LS's have alot more potential then you obviously are giving it. There are Ls Turbos that have made more 450 whp, and N/A LSvtec's makin 250+ to the wheels.
 
Originally posted by 92civicb18b1@Dec 21 2003, 06:32 PM
neither.....LS, turbo it or make it a franky (LSvtec). LS's have alot more potential then you obviously are giving it. There are Ls Turbos that have made more 450 whp, and N/A LSvtec's makin 250+ to the wheels.

LS vtec or b20/vtec is nice but not for reliability..ya know? So, i say GSR! If you are wanting the tq of the b20..buy a gsr, bore and sleeve it too 84mm when you buy the rest of the bottem end. Cool deal?...thought so!
 
b20 with a phone head would be fucking stupid fast!

Redial that shit like woah- and if you want boost- jsut keep hitting the pound key to up the pounds of boost!!!!!

and dial 0 to call the operator if you need help!
 
Originally posted by vtecsir1@Dec 21 2003, 07:35 PM
vtech is a god damn phone

s3de9097d65fc3.jpg
 
Originally posted by pissedoffsol@Dec 21 2003, 07:40 PM
b20 with a phone head would be fucking stupid fast!

Redial that shit like woah- and if you want boost- jsut keep hitting the pound key to up the pounds of boost!!!!!

and dial 0 to call the operator if you need help!

f0 sh0!!!



s3e49d213a5764.jpg
 
Originally posted by pissedoffsol@Dec 21 2003, 07:40 PM
b20 with a phone head would be fucking stupid fast!

Redial that shit like woah- and if you want boost- jsut keep hitting the pound key to up the pounds of boost!!!!!

and dial 0 to call the operator if you need help!

:tisk: :bo: :burnout:
 
Originally posted by lude68+Dec 21 2003, 07:39 PM-->
92civicb18b1
@Dec 21 2003, 06:32 PM
neither.....LS, turbo it or make it a franky (LSvtec). LS's have alot more potential then you obviously are giving it. There are Ls Turbos that have made more 450 whp, and N/A LSvtec's makin 250+ to the wheels.

LS vtec or b20/vtec is nice but not for reliability..ya know? So, i say GSR! If you are wanting the tq of the b20..buy a gsr, bore and sleeve it too 84mm when you buy the rest of the bottem end. Cool deal?...thought so!

a properly built LS/VTEC or B20/VTEC will be just as if not more reliable than a stock GSR
now once you get into the whole boring, sleeving, changing up the internals and shit
the reliability of the stock build is no longer in the equation... you have torn it apart and rebuilt it with aftermarket parts ... now you are at the mercy of the build quality just like the LS/VTEC or B20/VTEC guys are



ya know?
 
Originally posted by E_SolSi@Dec 21 2003, 07:47 PM
a properly built LS/VTEC or B20/VTEC will be just as if not more reliable than a stock GSR
now once you get into the whole boring, sleeving, changing up the internals and shit
the reliability of the stock build is no longer in the equation... you have torn it apart and rebuilt it with aftermarket parts ... now you are at the mercy of the build quality just like the LS/VTEC or B20/VTEC guys are



ya know?

this is true, 2.0 > 1.8. personally, i'd go with a b20/vtec setup and build it RIGHT and get it tuned properly
 
there is no better.

1.6's have run 10's
1.8's have run 10's
2.0 have run 10's
2.2 have run it also....


depends on what you have in terms of $$$ and how quick you want to go
 
So basically longs as it's a B series motor I can get to 13.00 in the quarter mile and drive it everyday. Also can anyone tell me by doing a turbo b16, b18c , or b20 vtech with all internals chagned, sleeved and a wet shot of about 65, new clutch, and flywheel will I hit 13.00 flat or less in the quarter, if I can drive good?
 
Hey man,
quick question:
You wanna go fast in a straight line?
OR
You wanna go fast on a track?
Most of us dont really have the money to go fast on a track considering the amount of mods required to help a civic pull respectable numbers on a road course. So that leaves us with going fast in a straight line for the least amount of cash right?
Well, just an idea for you,
B-series engines are the best, yes we all know this, but alot of us forget about the vulnerable H22 from our prelude cousin. Yes, it does add a substantial weight handicapp to the nose of a civic, but with specialy designed springs for this particular swap (available almost everywhere) and putting your civic on a diet (say goodbye to A/C) You can expect mid 13's with absolutely no interior or exterior modifications, even using the stock H22 intake. The swap is relatively easy, and inexpensive, and only requires a mount kit to get all 2.2 liters in the small civic engine bay. Just to give you an idea, I have a 92 DX hatch with the H22A, prelude type S pistons, and cams (stock Honda parts), ported and polished head, AEM cold air intake, and a DC catback exhaust (no need for headers, the H22 comes with a beautiful 4-2-1 header system stock!), and finally a spoon sports piggyback ECU. Very small amount of mods, VERY inexpensive, and the only things I sacrificed were my A/C and my backseats to reduce some weight. My DX has a personal best of 11.97 on the 1/4 mile. Your car is a coupe right? so it weighs a few hundred pounds more than mine (closer to the weight of an si) so with the amount of money you were going to put into a GSR, changing the internals and all, you will have significantly better results with the H22 (as long as all you want to do is go straight!). Keep in mind, if you want to spend more money later the H22 is more than capeable of producing upwards of 600 horsepower with the proper internals and some forced induction.
Keep an open mind brother, killer B's are great, but an H will do it for less.
Peace.
 
Originally posted by adnoh@Dec 22 2003, 09:47 PM
Most of us dont really have the money to go fast on a track considering the amount of mods required to help a civic pull respectable numbers on a road course. So that leaves us with going fast in a straight line for the least amount of cash right?

Suspension upgrades are cheaper than building an engine, and suspension owns road courses. It cost a lot more to get a civic to pull competitive times in the quarter.
 
Originally posted by 92b16vx+Dec 22 2003, 04:05 PM-->
@Dec 22 2003, 09:47 PM
Most of us dont really have the money to go fast on a track considering the amount of mods required to help a civic pull respectable numbers on a road course. So that leaves us with going fast in a straight line for the least amount of cash right?

Suspension upgrades are cheaper than building an engine, and suspension owns road courses. It cost a lot more to get a civic to pull competitive times in the quarter.

yea i was gonna say....
 
Suspension upgrades are cheaper than building an engine, and suspension owns road courses. It cost a lot more to get a civic to pull competitive times in the quarter. [/quote]
You make a very good point. In fact, all depending on the way you want to go with your car, every aspect has equal importance, as we all know. I was just tryin to say that unless you have the $$ to go both ways (quarter mile+track times), most people tend to go with one or the other. Thats the beauty of the H22 swap. The swap is so cheap, and the results so stellar, that it almost comes into the price bracket of a proper suspention upgrade (meaning real race coilovers, bushings ect... [in order for a civic to pull respectable road course times]). Take for instance Sport Compact Car magazines project EG civic. Even with a new H&R coilover setup and a full kit of Energy suspention bushings, their civic still "handled like a shopping cart", after the worst baseline slalom run in their magazines history. Even though the civic has double wishbones, doesnt mean its a terror on the road course. But it can go fast for cheap!
Peace!
 
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