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What is going wrong? Can't figger out codes...

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by wiredjosh, Jul 7, 2004.

  1. wiredjosh

    wiredjosh Member

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    Hey all, I need some help here... I'm working with a 98 HX that we put a B16 in. It runs ok, but feels like the timing is really retarded. When I pull codes, I get 4 long flashes, then 1 short flash, pause, 3 short flashes, pause, 7 short flashes, pause, 9 short flashes. I am working with a P61 ECU ran into a skunk2 obd2-obd1 conversion harness. I know that we should be getting a KS code, since we have no KS in (came broken on the new motor), but the other codes don't make sense. I can't even find a reference to a code 47 or 49, does anyone have any ideas? I know that KS codes will deaden your timing, but I am not even getting that code from the ECU... I could really use some help here! :(
     
  2. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    41 heated o2 sensor
    3 MAP sensor
    7 TPS sensor
    9 No.1 cylinder position sensor

    For the 41 make sure you have the o2 running to the right spots on the ECU. In the swap secction of the FAQ, there are some articles that can point you in the right direction. I only have OBD I manuals, below I'll post the pinouts for you, and a link to some articles.

    For the 3 and 7 make sure you don't have those two plugs backwards, very common, as they are right next to each other, and the same.

    9, CYP detects the postion of No. 1 cylinder for sequential fuel injection to each cylidner

    The manuals only tell how to fix the CELs in their natural enviroment, in otherwards, trouble shooting them for voltage, resistance, continuity, not for misplaced wiring, such as in the case of many swaps. Have a look at the wiring, compare it to pinouts, and make sure the wires meet their respective homes on the ECU, then move on to testing for bad sensors.

    [​IMG]

    You may find some info here...

    http://technet.ff-squad.com/
     
  3. wiredjosh

    wiredjosh Member

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    OK, duh. I didn't even think of looking at codes 3,7,and 9. i need a smack in the face. As far as the wiring goes, I am working w/an HX, so the VTEC wiring was all there, and I didn't touch it. I never touched anything on the MAP or TPS either, and there's no way to mix them up on this car cuz the leads won't reach. I think I am down to it being the sensors not working right, or was there something about those on the harness that I needed to repin?

    As far as the CYP, I did have to rewire the disty, and I could easily have mixed up the two cyp sensor wires. Since I am not getting any other distributor codes, that's what seems to be the issue.

    The check engine light was removed from the car when we started working on it, so I think personally that the o2 sensor was bad before we started working on it, and the previous owner of the car wanted the light to go away rather than replace the sensor. I have a spare tps and map sensor sitting here, so I'm going to try switching those out, and I'll let you know if that gives us any success! Thanks!
     
  4. wiredjosh

    wiredjosh Member

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    OK, so I changed out the MAP and TPS, and the codes went away, for a while. The MAP code never came back, but we tried 3 different TPS switches, and it never got better, in fact, it ran worse. Does anyone know how to test the tps to see if it's working right? What's the voltage supposed to be on the TPS? I have looked at everything I can find, and I don't think that there is anything wrong with my wiring, in fact, I didn't change anything at all because it's already a vtec harness.

    As far as the CYP code, I can't figure anything out. It's wired to the right ECU spots, and it's all wired up right to the Dist. Is there a chance that the sensor in the Dist is bad? Is there a way to test it, and can I get one out of another distributor? We ended up putting back in the original MAP and TPS sensors, and it's at least running decent now, but still feels like it's in limp mode.
     
  5. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    TPS = approx. 5 V

    resistance on the CYP should be 350-700 ohms, between the D and H terminals on the plug (two on the right when looking into the open end once it's unplugged) and B11 and B12 on the ECU, of course this is for an OBD I ECU and plug. I don't have any OBD II manuals, but it could lead you in the right direction.

    Do you have the manuals for your car? If not head to www.helminc.com and shell out the best money you can ever spend on your car, or at the very least run to the auto shop, and get some manual that has electrical diagrams.
     
  6. Sil VurFoX

    Sil VurFoX Member

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    wiredjosh.. I just installed a 94 Teg into my 98 civic "HX" and went turbo.. I'm also using the Skunk 2 harness to convert the car to OBD1 with a P75 Hondata chipped ECU. I'm throwing 1 code.. after this swap and it's "15" which I still need to figure out.

    I'll save you hours of wasted time and some grey hair I've given myself. The "HX" is the only model that has a 7 wire o2 primary sensor.. to run the B series engine you must convert to the 4 wire o2 sensor. Yes, the "HX" has the V-tec "E" that stands for enhanced.. but there is no way possible to convert the stock harness to run the 4-wire o2. I was throwing the exact same codes that you are right now.

    Find yourself a 1996-00 Honda civic "EX" engine harness and put that in your car. I used a 1996 civic "DX" harness myself and ran the three extra wires for the V-Tec, which is going to be in the near future.

    The stock wiring harness from the "HX" has 1 wire that messes the whole conversion up.. it's a ground or a heater wire that is supposed to run to the junction block, and it ties the TPS and one other sensor to the computer.

    Shoot me your e-mail address and I'll scann the codes into a ".PDF" file format and send it to you.
     
  7. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    Yea, you can, I have done it twice. The VX also uses a five wire o2. All you have to do is figure out what color wires in your harness go where, and adjust output signal, heater sensor, 12v, and ground.
     
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