What Should I Choose?h22a Or B18c1?

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Then we are starting to get somewhere.....im keeping the 4door,i love that car and the looks....

But why does the handling get worse with a H22a???i know its heavier....but cant i just buy a complet koni set and replace the dampers and springs?
That would make the cars handling better,right? :blink: :blink:
 
You almost need to upgrade the suspension, whether you're planning on autocrossing or not. You can do things to offset the weight difference. I think someone mentioned relocating the battery to the trunk and getting a carbon fiber hood. The problem is, the H22 sits slightly more forward in the engine bay, so it's not just the strict weight difference. It's where the weight occurs.

There are people here who say that a stock Civic CX could outrun an H22-powered Civic on an autocross course. I really don't believe this, and would love to see some stats to prove it. While you may not be able to keep up with a well-driven B16 or B18-powered Civic on the course, you'll be able to hold your own against many of the cars there. And let's not forget how an H22-powered Civic will destroy a 1.8L or 1.6L on the drag strip.

It really depends on what you want out of it. If it's a strict auto-crosser, think about another swap. But if you want something than can perform on the street, strip and course at any given time, and don't want to run forced induction, an H22 would be a good place to start.
 
Its mostly weight distribution that you would be worried about. but if you were to move the battery to the rear, and get a carbon fiber hood I believe that would offset the difference. The weight differences between motors I believe is 60 or so lbs, I maybe wrong. But you would shave around 60 lbs off the front by doing the battery and hood, and it would add 30 to the rear so effectively you would be moving 90 lbs to the rear of the car (-30 for hood on front, -30 for battery in front, and 30 in rear for battery) if you want to examine in in terms of ratio. And yes you are correct in that if you do a good suspension that helps. Part of the issue I have heard is where the h22 would mount in the bay, but I hear hasport is working on a better mount kit so that the engine is positioned further rearward in the engine bay.
 
:D I know of a place they have some good engine mounts...they have specialised in mounting H22a engines into civics!

I will usually use the car on the street,since the nearest track is a 3,5hour drive away from here! :(
So i want it to stick to the road...and have good handling.

Thanks for making me worthy of your answers! :worthy:
 
im not too sure if the battery and hood will help as much as people say it will or not ... the battery is right against the firewall (well behind the axles) and the hood removes weight from the total area (so only a few lbs in front of the axles) neither of these will really help the "nose heavy" feel of the H22 in a civic very much...
im sure it will help some... im just not too confident that it will have the implied effect due to the fact that most of the weight removed is already behind the axles (turning point)

So i want it to stick to the road...and have good handling.


now by this do you mean regular road/highway driving, or hard core carving through twisties???
for normal road/highway driving with a focus on drag racing the H22 is the best choice... for hard cornering (autoX, road course, twisties) you will be a little too nose heavy and might want to consider a B series engine... these things are possible with an H22 but you will have more understeer and a tendancy to "plow" in heavy corners
 
so effectively you would be moving 90 lbs to the rear of the car (-30 for hood on front, -30 for battery in front, and 30 in rear for battery)


I am seeking susp tuning help where I can find it. From those that appear to know what they are talking about, adding lightness to a vehicle and moving weight from front to rear is normally not a pound for pound swap. Just because you remove ~90 lbs from in front of where the driver sits doesn't necessarily mean you have done any good. Weight transfers across diagonal lines as well as front to back and side to side. At least that's what I've been told. I'm still trying to learn. I'm just letting you know that thinking of moving a battery when its already at the firewall isn't gonna help a daily driver.

Look at the reducing rotational mass or unsprung weight (smaller, lighter rims and tires, slotted/drilled rotors, lighter calipers (I know......calipers don't rotate but it's still weight over the axle) at the corners. Rotational weight, as I understand it, grows exponentially. So removing 20lbs per wheel of unsprung weight is like removing a 100lbs or more at speed.

to steal a quote from another board...........
 
:huh: okey,well...i guess it will be a boosted B18C1 instead....tear out the pistons,rods and everything and replace them with low compression pistons instead.i dont need any lower than 9:1 do i?

i need a car that handles good too,so then perhaps the B18C1 is a better choice,but alittle more expensive too! :huh: guess this will cost more than i had expected....ohwell.... B)
Thanks for all your help people,thanks for making me worthy! :worthy:
 
Originally posted by Gottalovehonda@Feb 12 2003, 10:13 AM
:huh: okey,well...i guess it will be a boosted B18C1 instead....tear out the pistons,rods and everything and replace them with low compression pistons instead.i dont need any lower than 9:1 do i?

i need a car that handles good too,so then perhaps the B18C1 is a better choice,but alittle more expensive too! :huh: guess this will cost more than i had expected....ohwell.... B)
Thanks for all your help people,thanks for making me worthy! :worthy:

If your definitely going to turbo,then why spend the money on a B18C1,and then replace all the internals?It doesn't make sense.
 
Originally posted by 92b16vx+Feb 12 2003, 10:59 AM-->
Gottalovehonda
@Feb 12 2003, 10:13 AM
:huh: okey,well...i guess it will be a boosted B18C1 instead....tear out the pistons,rods and everything and replace them with low compression pistons instead.i dont need any lower than 9:1 do i?

i need a car that handles good too,so then perhaps the B18C1 is a better choice,but alittle more expensive too! :huh: guess this will cost more than i had expected....ohwell.... B)
Thanks for all your help people,thanks for making me worthy! :worthy:

If your definitely going to turbo,then why spend the money on a B18C1,and then replace all the internals?It doesn't make sense.

Yes but dont forget that he gots a 1.4 90HP stock engine.
I know someone that boosted an engine like that soft turbo with 1.5PSI adn after 5K KM BOOOOMM..
Now he has installed a ZC 130HP and hes car is much faster than the previous one even not boosted.
Turbo is expensive
On a B18 typer R you can put a nice nx shot but daily driving wont be too expensive B)
 
My point is,he is spending the money on a GSR just to tear it apart,why,what is the point?Just save some money and build it yourself to exactly what he would need.
 
Originally posted by 14.4civicHB@Feb 10 2003, 09:20 PM
H22 is faster but you need a new car 2dr or a hb. doing up a 4dr is worthless


reallY?? 4 doors civics are worthless?? haha
ok...well i enjoy my Gs-R turbo Nitrous 4 door 5th gen civic every day...
It is NOT heavier than a cpe..same weight.

before I had a roll cage, I enjoyed the ultimate sleeper effect and the face expression pple had when i flew past them...

Much props to considering using a 4 dr as a project car
 
My point is,he is spending the money on a GSR just to tear it apart,why,what is the point?Just save some money and build it yourself to exactly what he would need.


Yes,i want the B18 v-tech.....you get one badass eninge out a B18C1 engine i have heard people say,but never seen it....besides,the H22 is also possible to boost,but if it ruins the handling of the car and i dont want it if it does that....

How many hp can i get out of a N/A B18C1 then?
 
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