What to do with an oil burner

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runderwo

New Member
F22A4 in a 90 accord, burned a valve. Took it apart. No hard oil varnish on pistons, they cleaned right up. So I figured the bottom end is ok. Had a valve job for $175, put it back together. Now at 3500rpm (i.e. 80mph on the interstate) it uses 1 qt in 150 miles and smokes when downshifting. Going to 15W-50 and seafoaming didn't help. I am assuming it is the rings and not a bad valve job, what do you think? I will check compression but I don't know how to check whether oil burning is from blowby or from valve guides.

Options:
1) Stay off the interstate
2) Pull the head and do rings and rods. I get NPR rings and pistons for $75 on ebay. This would be complicated by the fact that I had to helicoil one of the bolt holes in the block
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3) Somehow do the rings from below? Would have to trust that the crosshatch is ok.
4) Swap in a professional rebuilt short block. ($$$)
5) Used F22A from junkyard from a wreck or with tested compression.
6) F22A JDM.
7) Used/JDM F22B/H22. Motor mounts? Tranny? Wiring? ECU?


I like the option of going with a newer higher HP motor but want to minimize the amount of adapters, rewiring, etc. Seems like the H22 might be more work than I want.
 
man i think instead of building a non vtec motor thats not going to gain much power unless your planning on boosting , you should throw a f22b1 vtec in there and they come a dime a dozen at a cheap price , plus there great , strong motors that will take a beating , youll need a poa ecu and the wiring harness should come with the motor , have you looked to see if your leaking oil from anywhere , burning that much oil is a big problem , also who told you to put 15w-50 oil in there , very bad for honda motors, hondas run on a 5w-30 half and half , especailly the f series because there built lose to take the beaten , if you got the 1500 for the h22 swap then youll love the hp gain , from 130 - to 202 , thats not bad , youll need the mounts either way you go , it all depends on what you want to do with the car, are you looking for more power or you looking to get from point A to point B on a reliable motor.
 
im sorry , i forgot to tell you that if your bottom end is in great shape , then make it vtec with a head swap or go dohc with h23 head , just need the ecu , either a poa or a p14. just so you know i have either head for sale with intakes and everything else you need to perform the swap except the ecus . well i have a chipped ecu that the rev in topped out at 8500 rpm and vtec is on at 2500 , also advances the timing ccurve , disables the knock sensor and speed governer.
 
Its smoking when it downshifts so I think either the valve job was a dud or the bottom end is shot. If it is leaking, then it's only leaking when it is running because I have no drips on my garage floor. I put the heavier weight oil to see if it would slow down the oil burning, but it doesn't seem to have any effect. I also thought the detergent in the heavy oil would free up rings that were stuck, but if they were stuck they are still stuck. Tried seafoaming too. I am running with a O2 sensor CEL but I don't think it would have much to do with the oil burning.

I'm not looking for performance, I just want the most reliable ride with the minimum of modifications, tranny swaps, ECU swap, rewiring etc. I'm ok with some of it, I just want to be able to get it done in a weekend.
 
First thing is check compression. If you have a cylinder low just buy a salvaged engine for a couple hundred and swap it out. It can be done in a day without issues. The motor/trans comes out of the car pretty easily, I did a clutch swap in a night before a long drive to Canada the next day.

The F22 motor rly like boost, unless you're set on a H22 engine I would recommend just boosting the F series. With a Big 16G the car makes EXCELLENT immediate Tq and the turbo doesnt run out of gas until a lil over 6K. It was a good comprimise between power and response.
 
are you planning on boosting ?

If so then just swap your motor for the same motor but lesser miles for sure .

If you want a little more power , and your block is ok then swap head to h23 dohc

You can throw the f22b1 in your accord, the transmission wont bolt up , need a poa ecu , and you will need the mounts off the 94-97 accord ex lx. You should be able to perform this swap under 1100 bigones. and thats with the 5speed included. You already have a 5 speed right ?

where do you live that you cant get the f22a. the f series are every where for a cheap price . the internet is your best bet , jdm f series are cheap and plus there low milage,

I think youll be alot happier with the h22 swap . if your going to swap to the vtec motor , then why not spend a little more and get alot more !!!
 
I'm in Tulsa OK. I see a lot of 86-89 accords and later models but so far I haven't found a single 90-93 accord. What other hondas came with F22A motors?
 
nothin there is really no difference with the jdm vs usdm , will swap without any problems
 
is your tranmission no good, and do you have an automatic .

if your tranny is good then why waste the money . and an automatic at that,

but its not a bad price for the deal , how much was the shipping ?

your not going to get anymore power than what you had, well not until you turbo it. and theres a kit on ebay for that motor.
 
They want $175 to ship it. They sell it without the transmission for $100 less. I do have an iffy automatic, it works but slips/flares into 3rd if I mash the pedal. So why not pay the shipping once ya know?

How does installing a turbo affect the reliability? Any faqs on a turbo upgrade? I'm not so sure I'd be able to do it without specific instructions, I'm pretty good at following books but not so good at winging it.
 
turbo wont hurt that motor if your just running 9psi. if you buy a nice turbo kit , most come with installation instructions. turbo install isnt hard at all , just unbolting and bolting up the new. now your fuel and engine management will be tricky if you dont know , just take it to someone that knows how to tune . any dyno shop has everything you need, hondata s100 , fuel bump for boost and will cost at most 400- 450 for that. well worth the penny spent. if you cant fabricate then make sure your downipe it bolt on ready and not have to be welded.
 
But even with a JDM motor and turbo kit, I can use the same ECM, injectors, fuel pump, regulator as long as the ECM is correctly tuned? That would be great.
 
with any tubo , honda ecu will not read boost. nor will the stock injectors push enough . the correct and cheapest route is getting a p13 or p28 hondata ecu for about 200 , conversion harness is 100. typical dyno tune is 125 hour, most can tune it in a hour. youll need atleast 440 cc injectors. stock pump and rail are fine.
 
Ok, so I'm looking at about 800 for the motor, 250 for the turbo kit, 300 for a tunable ECU and harness, probably 100-150 for a set of used injectors and then labor for the tune? What if I replace the motor now and then do the turbo upgrade later, is everything easy to do with the motor in the car? Also, the factory rings and pistons are ok for mild boost like you mentioned?
 
f series motors love boost. and i woudnt worry about anything in the bottom under 10psi. but i highly recommend and thicker head gasket. lower the comp ratio a little and not to much o worry about blowing the damn things.
 
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