What to replace during suspension overhaul?

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^ A cordless drill with a 3/8" bit also works well and doesn't smell as much. :)

I'm with you on the brute force and not trying to push them out.
 
^ What type of torch did you use? Propane or oxy acetelyne? Or maybe MAPP gas? Probably want to wear gauntlets and a full face shield for that.

Drilling them was cleaner but still plenty of work - those things are a PITA to remove. But yeah, destroying the center neoprene core then sawing the metal bushings is a better technique than pressing them - I spent a few dollars at the machine shop on the front LCA's getting the old crap pressed out. Hadn't perfected the drill method early in the process. Got that figured out doing the rears. To do it again, I'd do them all myself and save the money.

Having a large vise on a pedestal really helped. That was one of those jobs that you learn as you go and once done with it ya know basically how to do it. :)

But in the end, after the struggle - it was well worth it - ride is nice now, tightened it up, brakes in a straight line and tire wear is even.
 
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I'm gonna drill press the crap outta all my old bushings. Just sit on the press and get it done. Shouldn't be too painful

OP...it's not a good idea (IMO) to do this piece by piece. Alignment (as was already stated) would be needed. Could be dangerous to wait and expensive to align multiple times. You should be able to get it all done in 6-8hrs (with the right tools, knowledge, and tenacity). .
 
^ He can however do the front, then do the rear, or rear first then front, with good results. :)
 
True. But (around my area) its cheaper for a 4-wheel alignment All at once (in comparison to a front wheel alignment then a rear wheel alignment later). But we're talking $20. Although that's a round of golf for me (cheap place I go to near me).
 
^ Can't argue with that. For me it's a round of 5 stand at the gun club (box of shotgun shells extra).

When I did mine, I did the front first, on one weekend and the rear a couple of weeks later on an old set of tires that were hammered by the worn out suspension. Also, did struts in conjunction with the bushing job and replaced old brake flex lines. Drove it with a tape measure and straight edge front alignment between front and rear rewwork. Then, took it to the shop for a 4 wheel align and over to the tire shop.

I'm guessing I could maybe do the job in 10-12 hours for front/rear (just for bushings - add 2-3 more hours for the struts) now that I know how. But the first time was the learning curve and figuring out how to get the old crap out with tools on hand and what technique - I ended up trying to press out the front LCA bushings on my 10 ton press, then gave up when the pressure went past 8700 PSI (10 ton rated maximum) and took them to the machine shop. To do the job again, I'd be able to get them out myself with the "Destructive" methods discussed.
 
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It shouldn't take a whole day to replace, shocks, springs, and bushings. Even if you decide to do inner and outer tie rods. I would say at the most a weekend because beer runs are time wasters.
 
Well, i guess i must have done something wrong since it did, in fact take me almost 2 full days due to broken bolts, seized bushings, broken tools, and one broken bolt that royally screwed me... The toe adjuster bolt... Try and figure that one out... In a garage... With limited tools... But hey, shouldn't take more than a day!!!
 
^ It took me about 3 days of total work, over two separate weekends for front, then rear.
 
If you organize your parts and tools, plan to be effective and efficient, as well as insure that your tools and reference materials will complete the job. Then yes, it shouldn't take that long.
 
dc4dude said:
Ok. Thanks.
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What he said. Cuz I don't want to go to the other place. :) (my shit was at the machine shop for a day for the front LCA's for bushing removal) But, I also changed brake lines and did the exhaust hangers and all the bushings including shift linkage and radius rods under the radiator + rebuilt struts.

Total time = 3 full days spread over two different weekends. That means there were some inherent inefficiencies such as jacking and blocking car twice, pulling out tools, air hose, tool cart, extension cords, hose for water misters, work lights, big fan, etc. That's more than an hour.
 
no one asked it seems.

but are you looking to upgrade? or just replace with OEM(or equiv) parts?

if it were ME:

OEM:
replace all shocks and OEM/hardrace rubber bushings. replacing entire LCAs to make the job easier.
be sure to replace the rear trailing arm bushings, the OEM one is probably trashed
replace outer tie rods (inners too if you NEED them)
upper and lower ball joints

upgrade:
Koni/GC setup, getting the GC sleeves matched to koni shocks for a tight fit.
Hardrace rubber bushings throughout (avoid poly for moving joints IMO)
probably rebuild the steering rack with new bushings/seals
inner and outer tie rods
upper and lower ball joints.
camber adjustable upper control arms front and rear
 
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Thought I put this in the first message, but I guess not. Currently, I'm just attempting to improve my ride quality efficiently. The car rides like a go cart currently. But I don't want to dump money into it either, because once this car gets off daily duty, I plan to upgrade it to more of a track suspension.
 
IMO, investing in hardrace rubber bushings now, will be good for now AND future track duty. same with ball joints and tie rods.
 
my recommendation.

replace all the bushings with hardrace rubber
replace the shocks with a new OEM replacement from autozone or something
replace ball joints and outer tie rods

this kit will give you everything you need for front and rear.
Hardrace Suspension Bushing Kit 94-01 Integra GSR LS - 6107 - BuyHardRace.com

if you dont have a press or access to one, you will probably have to pay a machine shop to install most of them. which would mean removing the arms, and taking them to the shop. it will still be worth it IMO. shop around for prices on the work though.

with rubber bushings, remember to tighten all bolts with the vehicle under its own weight. either jack up suspension at the corner (still use jackstands!) or use a lift that you drive up onto. this will avoid having the bushings "pre loaded" or "twisted" when at static ride height.

just my .02. you have a lot of miles on there, pretty much everything needs replacing. might consider looking at replacing the wheel bearings too.
 
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