and just so you know im gona copy cat that motor build lol well almost
what will fit in the HF
- Thread starter pfclyon
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umm did you read what blanco said
philyphreak2127
Back in the Game
go with the d16z6 motor. I would suggest getting the wiring harness and ecu from the car you pull the motor out of if possible. Also keep the hf manifold from your motor and sell it to me ;-)
because its about 5 inches wider and 3 longer than the block,,( note, not sure on the size but you get the point )
philyphreak2127
Back in the Game
probably a lot less time than it will take you. no offense intended. But experience with d-series motors or even Honda in general teaches you some tricks that cuts down a lot on time, and sometimes even cost. But like he said generic brands will cut cost as well. But it depends if you want cheap and fast sign up on homemadeturbo.com do some research and build yourself a turbo kit to throw on a stock d16a6 motor, and you could probably get up around 200 hp. Total cost of that project would probably be around $800-900, including motor.
well i like the d16z6 but ive always liked the d15b,,and i have alot of stock d15b7 motors just sitting around so i may just put the z6 head on one of those and build it with the parts you have listed ,can that be done ? if i use the d15b7 motor will i need to change to a z6 crank ?,,but the only thing i was gona change was maybe different pistons, and a bigger camHmm. Well, a rough estimate on price would be $200 less. I spent $200 on OEM Honda bearings (I don't recommend ACL/Cleavite/King/etc., but some people like them) and around $400 on the rest of the stuff, including spark plug wires and water pump. I got this HondaAutomotiveParts.com. I figure that the plug wires cost $60 from Honda or around $30 from VatoZone. So, you'll probably save 50%.
Actual work hours or research hours? Work hours were probably around 10-12 and I'll say a conservative 300 research hours over about ten months. I take my sweet time when I'm working, since it's a hobby, along with having to take the block apart to get it decked and I had to have one of my rods swapped out after I'd already put the block completely together. The first problem could've been avoided had I checked the deck before assembling the block and the second one was the machine shop's fault. They either bent/twisted one of my rods or didn't bother telling me that of them wasn't true, either way I had to pull that piston/rod out to have the piston pressed onto a different rod. Thankfully I had one that had the same bearing size. At least I know the block was built well the final time.
So...where's my pie?
Right on. I've been thinking about getting a different cam, but then I'd also want to raise the compression for n/a. I'm thinking either Crower Stage 2, Skunk2 because their new lobe profile is supposed to make more power, or Bisimoto stage two. What else were you going to do different?
FObangah
Member
blanco is the man when it comes to the d series, if he says it do it.im going to
+ 10,000
<<< He somehow managed to weed through all the Bseries- band waggon bull-sh** and help me build a pretty sick little D series for turbo. I never ran it ( sold it when I got the s2000 ) but the guy that has it is still driving it daily on about 10psi (2 years), and I had never laid a finger inside of an engine before. He had me going from barely bolting on intakes to notching a D16Z6 block to accomadate EAGLE H-beam connecting rods. There is no better person to talk to here about the D-series line of engine.
As a matter of fact, I just called UPS to see how much it would cost to overnight 2 McDonald's apple pies^_^
FObangah
Member
Yeah, thats why I've repped you like 3,000,000 times.By the way, do you still have that link about the block notching? I don't know if you remember it, it was in my favorites on my old 'pooter but that jewel took a dump on me a while back. I think I'm gonna go for that build again now that I have a little extra change in the bank. I'm thinkin' '92-'95 Civic 4dr, Foax-Ferio outside, built D inside
