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What Will I Need: Mini-Me Swap?

Discussion in 'General Tech and Maintenance' started by bizzy, Aug 3, 2003.

  1. bizzy

    bizzy Junior Member

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    Hi.I want to Put a d16y8 head On My d16y7 block and im not sure what i will need, can Someone please tell me exactly what i will need to do this. Thanks To Ne1 That Will Help me
     
  2. Havok

    Havok Senior Member

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    D16Y8 head
    " " head gasket
    " " timing belt
    " " distributor
    " " ECU
    " " Intake Manifold
     
  3. hondadriver

    hondadriver Member

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    Distributer? What for????? No you DO NOT NED ONE
    Intake manifold is optional!!!

    No, i just did the head swap on my 98 lx its very EASY. You need the head, timing belt, head gasket, intake and exhaust manifold gasket, and a summit $50 rpm switch for the vtec.

    I just got the ex vtec ecu and i plugged it in and it idled up to 1500 rpm and sputers, and i got the IAC erro code, becasue the lx has a 3 wire IAC connection and the ex has a 2 wire, i tried to change the wireing around on the ecu connction, but it still was fucking up. So the ex ecu is not neccessary, i've been driving with the lx and its been fine. So i would say fuck it on the ecu.

    And the fuel map shit is suppose to be different , but thats bulshit because i though i was running lean from using the lx ecu , but No i was still running lean with the ex ecu, so don't waste your money.

    If you have ANY questions on this swap just ask me, i now everything you need to now about this swap!!! Because some people that have no idea how to do his swap like to add their 2 cents of bull. you also need some mechnical skills and the tools.
     
  4. bizzy

    bizzy Junior Member

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    thanx for the help hondadriver.
     
  5. Havok

    Havok Senior Member

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    the y8 IM is much better.

    distributor, yeah u can use your same one, since it's a d series.

    The P2P ECU should be used because it has fuel settings designed for the y8 engine.

    You only need a : P2P ECU OR a vtec activation, not both. Get the ECU as you won't fry your VTEC solenoid.

    As for HondaDriver, you might want to shut up, since I did this on my Civic before I sold it.
     
  6. MokujinX5

    MokujinX5 Senior Member

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    I did the same swap also. It's pretty straight forward...like changing a head gasket.

    I can't figure out the wiring to get the VTEC to activate, I've got a VAFC. The fuel settings are different between the Y8 and Y7 ECU.

    I think it's a good idea to get the EX ECU also like Afipunk21 said It'll keep you from frying the VTEC solenoid.

    Hey HondaDriver, I've had my swap for about 2 months now and it's just now showing the IAC error code (P0505??)I can't figure it out. I'm using a Z6 intake manifold on my Y7/Y8 swap. It idles at 1500rpm now. Drives fine though.

    Bizzy, I would suggest investing in an AFC (air fuel controller) of some kind to help with fuel settings (unless you get a VAFC then that'll help with VTEC also) though I've heard you can lean out Honda's a lot on the top end and they'll run fine.
     
  7. hondadriver

    hondadriver Member

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    Afipunk21, fucks your probelm don't tell me to shut up, mister "you need a new distributer on a me mini" AND Who cares that you did it before! I was just letting him now the problems i was having with installing the ex ecu, like i said the lx has a 3 pin iac, and the ex has a 2 pin and when i hooked up the ex ecu i got a code and the idle was at 1500, and it was sputtering. so i can't use it unless i swap the intake manifold. because the iac is not interchange between the lx and ex intake manifold. so i was just leting him now the problems i had with installing the ex ecu.
    BECAUSE BEFORE I DID THE SWAP, I did alot of research and EVERYONES answer is just to swap the head and use the ex ecu, but noone told me that i would have this problem, i just think some people should make sure they now what they are talking about , before they give other people info. Eveyone says that the vtec solenoid can burn out but the ecu is the same think at 5200 rpm the ecu throws a 12v signal and activates the vtec, you just have to make sure you have enough oil and let the oil pressure build up first before you let vtec kick in. Like with the ecu if the oil pressure is not were its suppose to be vtec will not kick in! And i never said I USED OR YOU NEED a rpm switch and the ecu, i just said the rpm switch will be easier, and that i only bought the ecu to see if it will help my leaning out problem which it didn't!!!!!!! So don't be tellin people too shut up!
     
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