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What would be cheapest

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by Utrax42, May 28, 2009.

Cheapest to make 300-350WHP Turboed (My car is D16Z6 right now)

  1. D16Z6/D16Y8

    3 vote(s)
    18.8%
  2. B18Ax/B1x LS

    4 vote(s)
    25.0%
  3. B16xx

    4 vote(s)
    25.0%
  4. B18Cx

    5 vote(s)
    31.3%
  1. Utrax42

    Utrax42 New Member

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    I'm just finishing a slightly built NA D16Z6 motor, and I'm already thinking about what build I want to do next.

    My goal for this new build will be around 300~350WHP, Turboed.

    Regardless of your opinion of D or B series being Better, What do you think would be cheapest to get to that goal? A built D16 or a Built B 16/18LS/GSR. keep in mind that my car is already set up for a D16Z6. Thanks
     
  2. phyregod

    phyregod !!YTINASNI

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    B20 with a B16 head (for lower compression vs a gsr head), with a turbo and a good tune. More displacement and better flow will give you a big leg up from the start, and will yield much better numbers in the end.
     
  3. 95b16coupe

    95b16coupe New Member

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    the cheapest way would be to turbo the d16 and throw on some nitrous.

    cheap and reliable don't go together. nobody should shoot for over 300hp on a budget. do it right or you'll be doing it twice.
     
  4. INJEN78

    INJEN78 HS LEGEND

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    read my siggy..
    do a boosted D or a boosted LS
     
  5. Utrax42

    Utrax42 New Member

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    Thanks for the feedback guys. The more I think about it the more I wanna go D. It will be easier to swap, and its not the most commonly built motor. D series are basically all I have experience with, and my brother has built his D so I think it will be the best idea for me for now.
    What I'm thinking for the build-
    - YCP Vitara Pistons - good for about 395whp on good tune. Anyone have experience with these?
    - Eagle rods
    - Balanced Assembly. I'd like to rev to 8K at least
    - Mill head & block .010" each and use .030" head gasket to bump up to 7:1 EFFECTIVE CR for my altitude. Does anyone know how to calculate the effect of aftermarket cams on CR?
    - Adjustable cam gear
    - ACL Race Bearings
    - Block guard
    - PnP
    - Stage 2 cam w/ spring/retainers (I would like this to be streetable)
    - Maybe hi-flow light weight valves. Would these be necessary or even worth the money?
    - Turbo of course but I'll have to research into choosing a proper size
    -Walbro Fuel pump? - I'll research to see what they are rated for
    - Injector size? I'll have to do some research.
    - 50-100 wet shot
    - AEM or Hondata for Tuning. A/F gauge w/ wideband O2 sensor. Boost gauge, and what other gauge should I run for safety monitering? I've never tuned before but I'd be up for it with my bros help, and simply work up a PSI or two at a time, and then work up through the Nos shot sizes.
    And everything else for a rebuild in OEM or namebrand parts. Oil, water pump. Gates timing belt (good brand or should i use OEM?). All new gaskets/seals ect.

    What do you guys think? What could I improve or do to make the setup more reliable?
    Thanks again!
     
  6. Utrax42

    Utrax42 New Member

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    O and the supporting drive train of course.
    How much would I need to build a tranny? I was hoping just LSD diff and maybe carbon synchros in 2nd and 3rd. I don't know much at all about the transmission building so...
    upgraded axles
    What else could I do in this area?

    Rear disc brake conversion & maybe slotted front rotors.
     
  7. 95b16coupe

    95b16coupe New Member

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    if you are doing a full build, you wont need the nitrous. If i were you, i would just get a spare engine and put it on an engine stand and do the full build while you leave the car drivable.
     
  8. Utrax42

    Utrax42 New Member

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    Wouldn't the nitrous give me oodles of torque and get me spooling faster? Even if I don't use the nitrous on top end, it would broaden my power band right?
    yes, I plan on just getting another engine. This build will be over a few years as I'm a poor college student with limited time & resources.
     
  9. 95b16coupe

    95b16coupe New Member

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    i personally wouldn't do both unless it was a track only monster. if you build it right, you wont need both.
     
  10. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    I'd say B18/B20 as far as ease go. But, since you're starting with a Z6, that's the best route to go. For the price of a LS-swap, you can reinforce your block along with some other goodies.
     
  11. Dark93DX

    Dark93DX New Member

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    ^^^ agreed, best of both worlds

    Though, the words "cheap" and "350whp" don't seem like they belong in the same sentence.
     
  12. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    Yeah, but that does not mean you have to spend the most money on your setup. There's a difference between "cheapest" and "cheap".

    ie: if you started with a D16 block, you can have a setup just as reliable but in the end cost less. Turbos and manifolds cost about the same between the D and B, so you'd have to look at internals and the block itself. B-series would require him to swap, which is like $1000 for a complete swap....and he'd still want to reinforce it wherever possible. With the D16, that would buy you new sleeves if you wanted or even rods+pistons with about $500 to spare(which could be a nice Bisimoto cam ;) ).
     
  13. TurboRex90

    TurboRex90 Golden EG

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    I do. In a Mini me setup, Z6 head, ZC block. They hold up, im pushing 20psi easy.

    Good for low compression, they dropped mine to 8.1:1.
     
  14. Briansol

    Briansol Admins Admin VIP

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    gobs of power on d-series kinda sucks due to unequal axel lengths. even with an lsd, it will walk everywhere.

    i vote B-series, if just for the tranny/axle fix
     
  15. Utrax42

    Utrax42 New Member

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    Lol, despite the poll, i'm going to go with the D16Z6. I'll upgrade the axles for sure, so hopefully not a lot of torque steer.
    Like I said this will be a long term project as I don't plan on overlooking things. Yes I want it to cost as little as possible but I WILL put in the time/money to make it reliable. I guess the important question is What is required for this to be reliable. My biggest concern atm is whether I should sleeve or not.
     
  16. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    That has been brought up many times, but turns out it's not noticeable with an LSD.

    Plus, there's equal-length axles already available for D16s....but you lose a LSD unless you have lots of money(or if the DOHC ZC came with one).
     
  17. TurboRex90

    TurboRex90 Golden EG

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    D series sleeves have been known to hold up to well over 350hp easy on a good tune, the record i believe was set at little over 600hp on stock D sleeves, a matter of fact, on a D16Z6 i believe it was.
     
  18. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    It later cracked IIRC. Most I heard, that actually held, was around 400hp. Still though, you're in the "high risk" zone. With a good tune you can probably get away with it...but if something goes wrong you may be looking at a new block.
     
  19. Utrax42

    Utrax42 New Member

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    For the price of 800 dollar sleeves + machining , I think I'd rather lower my HP goal to an even 300whp, unless my financial situation changes when the time comes to it.
     
  20. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    That does it, I'm going to start giving everyone power figures in PSI.

    "My car currently has 12psi at the wheels."

    Fail.
     
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