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CrazyAzn

Senior Member
okay well heres the deal, i just recently swapped in a poormans itr into my ef. . . and the cars been running great ever since i did the swap. well i just changed the head gasket the other day and it started back up like nothing, pretty much exactly how it did b4 i took the motor apart.

well heres when the fun started. . .

so the car started up, and i turned it back off to make sure i didnt miss ne thing b4 i headed off to work. Then i lost spark, so i changed the dizzy with my friends hacked ls one that he had and it worked. . . well on the way to work my rev limiter was screwed up beyond belief, it would stop at 7600, then 6500, then i couldnt rev past 5k. . . it just bounced like it was a stock revlimiter. THis puzzled me, thinking it was teh dizzy or possibly a loose connector, i rechecked all the connections along with the dizzy.

so the next day, i went to start my car and it wouldnt start again, but this time i lost gas. . . so i shelled out and bought a brand new honda main relay. i went home and put it in and the car started up, i set timing, then tried to rev it up and it stopped at like 4k, bounced relly hard, check engine light came on for a split second and turned off along with my car. . . i really have no idea what the hell is going on, i yanked out my alarm, becacuse ive had some bad experiences with alarms screwing up things.

so these are the symtoms i have to work with, the main relay just makes a funny wizzing sound, the fuel pump doesnt prime, i cant pull any codes from my ecu, i also put my old dizzy back in and it started up. . . so it had nothing to do with my dizzy being bad. i have a obd0-obd1 conversion and when i jump the diagonistic connector the check engine light doesnt even come on. where as b4 when i used to jump it, even if there wasnt a code in the ecu, it would just stay on. well now it doesnt do ne thing but stay dimly lit. my rev limiter is all fucked up when i do manage to get my car started. keep in mind that when my car is idleing its perfectly fine, i just cant drive it. . . as odd as that sounds.

im running a p28 chipped with a type r program. . . im thinking its the ecu, due to all the craziness thats been going on with my car and it not being able to make up its mind as to what is wrong. lossign spark, the next day fuel, along with my check engine light not working right on my dash, i turn my car to start and it just stays dimly lit and doesnt go off, its not all the way on, nor all the way off. THis might also aid in some help, but occassionaly my rev limiter would get messed up b4 all this happened, like it would stop at the stock p28 rev limit of 7600, opposed to the 8500 or 9k, i dont remember what the chip is exactly. Then i changed the chip with another good one i had working at my house and the same deal happened, dim check engine light, doesnt start. . . blah blah blah

can someone please help me, i am completely lost. . . . but my best guess is that my ecu is bad. . . and if it is bad, that really sucks because p28's arent the cheapest thing around.

any second opinions/diagonistics?

Also: i would try my ecu if my friends cars, butttt that just doesnt seem like all to great an idea, and tryign there ecu in my car doesnt seem like a great idea either. . . . but im going to try my friends ls ecu tho and see what happens. . . .

sorry, that was a bit long, but i wanted to go indepth
 
Sensors hooked up wrong? If the ECU doesn't like what it "sees" it won't let you into the VTEC rev range.
 
but it was running fine, then all a sudden took a shit. . . i cant even pull a check engine light jumping the wires. . .
 
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