What ya think New motor

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blwnsmke

New Member
Well I got everything in for my new motor setup. Fixing to drop the block off at the machine shop.. What yall think? I am going to most likely end up ordering a set of Custom Turbo cams.. What kind of hp and boost can this setup handle with the following?

Type R Block
81.5mm Weisco Pistons 9:0 Sleeved
Cometic .030 Head Gasket 81.5mm
LS Crank Micropolised and balance
Light weight crank pulley
Eagle LS H beams with arp bolts
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Studs w/ GSR girdle
Type R oil pump
GSR Waterpump
Type R Head w/ P&P, Ti Retainers, Aftermarket springs, 3 angle valve job.
GSR Cams
AEM Cam Gears
RC 650cc Injectors
AEM Fuel Regulator
Walbro 255
AEM Big Rail
Phearable Tune
HX35 Turbo
9lb F1 Flywheel
 
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Screw block guards. Get it sleeved.

Not nearly as much power as if you got it sleeved.

Make sure you get cams properly suited for your flow bench results. And you better have flow bench results... but just a 'Turbo' cam is pretty general. Incase you didn't know.

My guess is it makes 300whp for 6 months of hard driving...
 
Screw block guards. Get it sleeved.

Not nearly as much power as if you got it sleeved.

Make sure you get cams properly suited for your flow bench results. And you better have flow bench results... but just a 'Turbo' cam is pretty general. Incase you didn't know.

My guess is it makes 300whp for 6 months of hard driving...

What kind of hp difference could I make if it were sleeved? If I were to sleeve it what hp difference would there be between 81.5mm vs 84mm? What exactly do you mean by hard driving for 6 months? You think its going to crank the stock sleeves or blow up?
 
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Do you really own this stuff? Do you even know what your spending money for?

Very little research would have yielded mass amounts of information about sleeving your block. First your boring it out with boost, not smart since your making the already weak walls weaker. I don't believe that micropolishing was at all necessary for your crank either, and will probably affect it's lifespan because of it. Race applications only really.

Block guards don't allow coolant to flow as well. Cooling worse than stock, creating more heat...

Do I call you Noob?
 
Do you really own this stuff? Do you even know what your spending money for?

Very little research would have yielded mass amounts of information about sleeving your block. First your boring it out with boost, not smart since your making the already weak walls weaker. I don't believe that micropolishing was at all necessary for your crank either, and will probably affect it's lifespan because of it. Race applications only really.

Block guards don't allow coolant to flow as well. Cooling worse than stock, creating more heat...

Do I call you Noob?

Yes I own all of it actually.. I am a Noob to the import scene. I have done a lot of reading and I know I got a lot more to read.. I have tried to research the things I really didn't understand. I searched the block sleeving a little but not as much as I should.. Thanks for the input. Guess I need to look into sleeving.. I got a quick question. Are there really any major pro's and con's running a sleeved 84mm vs a sleeved 81.5mm??
 
why a type r block? use that for high compression not boost

I got it for $50. What would of been a better choice? All of the B Series blocks are 81mm right? So whats the difference if your building one from scratch? I have a b16a3 block. Would that of been a better choice?
 
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I can't remember off the top of my head but I think the type-r block has oil squirters in it. The B16B that is.

Well I don't think it's possible to even go that large. But idk off the top of my head. Probably wouldn't cool as well because the coolant passage would be reduced.
 
Ya I planned on just removing the squirters and plugging them off.. As for the bore. I think Im just going to stick with the 81.5mm. The car is going to get dyno tuned when its done plus I dog rag on my stuff like a lot of people. I have the power there when I need it, not 24/7
 
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Why in the hell would you remove the oil squirters......
 
Eh idk that, but I know that they help the motor stay lubricated in extreme conditions. I would want them if I could put them in my B16A. Deffinatly would never remove them if they came in my block....
 
The LS transmission came in the car already built like that! Thats common sense on the sleeves being stronger.. Yall really downgrade alot of people on here for asking questions. I understand everyone needs to search but you can't always find what your looking for or exactly understand it all when searching so thats why I asked specific questions I wanted to know. I never asked whats the benefit of sleeves. I said what is the hp difference I could make from a 81.5mm stock sleeves to a 84mm after market sleeves! Like how much more hp could it handle? I have alot of knowledge on building v8 cars all day long. Im new to the import thing so Im trying to cross refrence a v8 car to a import and somethings are totally different. Yet at the same time Im trying to learn as I go.. Why would putting a lightweight crank pulley spin a bearing?? As for the LS crank Im using I didn't pay for it either. I swapped some old parts to a buddy of mine that just had it freshly micropolised.. As for the cams. I said I am going to run the GSR cams for now. The reason I mentioned getting a set of turbo cams is because the GSR cams have a lot of overlap. I could hopefully get my tuner to eliminate all the overlap out as possible. I want to dyno it first and see how it runs like that.
 
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I got the bare Type R block for 50 bucks so I couldn't pass it up and I don't really feel like having a GSR block or anything shipped here. So are far as me running my LS crank and Rods in this motor. The oil squirters are going to be a clearance issue right?
 
why a type r block? use that for high compression not boost

the block doesnt determine the compression...

Screw block guards. Get it sleeved.

Not nearly as much power as if you got it sleeved.

Make sure you get cams properly suited for your flow bench results. And you better have flow bench results... but just a 'Turbo' cam is pretty general. Incase you didn't know.

My guess is it makes 300whp for 6 months of hard driving...

the block doesnt determine the power...
people say a lot of shit about block guards, that they are garbage, but my buddy has an 18 psi civic making quite a bit of power on a 16g, je pistons, eagle rods, stock sleeves, with a block guard, and he has probably put 20k on the motor and had the motor for over a year and a half. he drives the shit out of the motor too on occasions. its all in the tune and how you drive. if you beat the piss outta any motor its not going to last very long...

if your power goal is going to remain 300 whp i think the block guard and stock sleeves are fine...but on that setup, if you are running a medium to larger turbo, 10 psi is probabyl going to put you up around 300 whp
 
the block doesnt determine the compression...



the block doesnt determine the power...
people say a lot of shit about block guards, that they are garbage, but my buddy has an 18 psi civic making quite a bit of power on a 16g, je pistons, eagle rods, stock sleeves, with a block guard, and he has probably put 20k on the motor and had the motor for over a year and a half. he drives the shit out of the motor too on occasions. its all in the tune and how you drive. if you beat the piss outta any motor its not going to last very long...

if your power goal is going to remain 300 whp i think the block guard and stock sleeves are fine...but on that setup, if you are running a medium to larger turbo, 10 psi is probabyl going to put you up around 300 whp

18psi means nothing. How much horse power was being put down at the wheels?

I never said a block guard was weak. I said it obstructs coolant flow. In a circuit race, I bet it overheats.
 
... Yall really downgrade alot of people on here for asking questions. I understand everyone needs to search but you can't always find what your looking for or exactly understand it all when searching so thats why I asked specific questions I wanted to know....

Just do the research. We only complain when the information is 100% contained in this site. Stop your bitchin :) and look how my posts started out... learn foo!

blwnsmke said:
...Why would putting a lightweight crank pulley spin a bearing?? ...

Honda motors are very very very very very precise compared to most other manufactures, more-so domestics. They require prestine balance to do 8,000rpm all day long. There's this thing called a harmonic dampener... it helps achieve this balance. A lightweight one will not have the harmonic dampener and will cause the crank to basicly vibrate till it spins a bearing.

Just search Honda and Lightweight Pully and there's a bazillion results. Search first, ask last.

blwnsmke said:
...The reason I mentioned getting a set of turbo cams is because the GSR cams have a lot of overlap. I could hopefully get my tuner to eliminate all the overlap out as possible. I want to dyno it first and see how it runs like that.

Dumbass you dont even know V8s then. You want overlap with turbo! That's why people go from Type-r cams to GSR cams for boost, because they make more power. Ever heard of volumetric efficency? Maybe exhaust scavaging?
 
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