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What's The Cheapest Way To Get 300whp?

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by HighOnBoostH22A, Feb 28, 2003.

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  1. HighOnBoostH22A

    HighOnBoostH22A Junior Member

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    ...while still being a reliable daily driver... what motor, with what mods and what forced induction setup???
     
  2. Domeskilla

    Domeskilla Senior Member

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    Please only post once...

    Thanks :)
     
  3. dvs_prelude

    dvs_prelude Senior Member

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    There is no "cheap" way of having a reliable daily driven turbo honda engine. If 300whp is all you want to achieve, I would suggest an H22A turbo setup. But, you must build the bottom end to handle that much power. At a minimum, you'll have to resleeve the block with iron ductile sleeves, get forged pistons and rods. That alone, will probably run you around 2700-3000 not including labor. Then, you'll obviously need a turbo kit 4000 +/-...

    If you only want 300whp, you could get away with using the stock ECU with some 440cc injectors, and a V-AFC. With the proper tuning of the V-AFC and a set of cam gears, you could get 300whp at around 10psi on an H22. :D

    You won't have to do anything to the head for 300whp.
     
  4. SFPracing

    SFPracing Senior Member

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    I feel with the right engine combo like a CRVtec setup with cams, header, intake, t body and a healthy 75 shot of juice about 300fwHP can be made. If you do a wet setup with all the safety features, a block guard, and fuel pump you shoudl have no problem keeping the car reliable. The nice thing about honda's is when you miss a shift and or hit rev limiter, they cut spark not fuel like most cars. Therefore you don't get a nasty shot of raw nitrous in the combustion chamber (you'll still get some fuel with wet kit but not enough in other cars) Therefore it's tougher to blow the car up. I ran a 75 shot on my bone stock D16A for many months and went through like 3 10lb bottles a week and couldn't blow the car up. It want from 16.5 stock to 15.0@90mph from just that shot of juice. The other thing is the bottle was about empty by the time I got to the track cause I played to much on the highway on the way there. Hehe hence no bottle pressure. I was only running like 800psi. The next run I ran out of juice half way down the track. No need to be scared of the Kool Aid. You just need to respect it. :worthy:

    For those of you who aren't bandwidth impaired.. check out this movie.. hehe remember just a 75 shot of nitrous in a stock 9 hatch. Only thing I had otherwise was an air fuel gauge and a Fuel pressure reg. for the dry kit. I raced a turbo jetta. haha http://www.theberlinturnpike.com/movies/Tu...lueVSTwocam.MPG
     
  5. HighOnBoostH22A

    HighOnBoostH22A Junior Member

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    i apologize... i'm new to the board and i didn't notice that this was the more appropriate forum for my question... won't happen again...
     
  6. HighOnBoostH22A

    HighOnBoostH22A Junior Member

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    so what's the deal with an f-max kit...they're claiming about 250hp and 165ft-lbs at the wheels with 9psi with daily driving reliability... couldn't i get up to 300whp if i uped the boost and fuel accordingly???



    the dyno chart: http://www.hardracing.com/CARPARTS/CARImag...alpha_turbo.gif
     
  7. SFPracing

    SFPracing Senior Member

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    That would most definately work but I thought you wanted to go cheapest way to get to 300hp. F Max is up there.
     
  8. HighOnBoostH22A

    HighOnBoostH22A Junior Member

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    the entire f-maz kit goes for about 4500, w/ shipping... i don't see why you suggested cylinder sleeving, pistons, and rods if that's gonna bring me up to 10k...
     
  9. Domeskilla

    Domeskilla Senior Member

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    you can't just throw that on there and say.. "oh wow, 250whp".. to get it to be efficent and solid power. You need to upgrade fuel componants.. you get what you pay for..

    resleeving is 1200 or so from golden eagle.. plus block work (if any done), rods are 450 or so for eagle and pistons are 575 or so for roller waves (endyn) and those aren't the "top notch" brands listed. Head work, IM, cam's, tuning, cam gears, LSD to get that power down, clutch to get it down also, hondata or something (fmu's are cheap hacks).. if you are going to do it, fucking do it right. I can half ass you a motor and make 300whp, but it wont be reliable.

    A h22 needs to be resleeved before forged pistons b/c of the teflon coating on the stock sleeves. (*if you were going h22*)
     
  10. SFPracing

    SFPracing Senior Member

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    On the contrary it's designed to be bolted on and work. It comes with the additional fuel components (additonal injector/s and injector controller). If you want to push it beyond how they send it then you'd sleeve, lower your compression and dial up some more boost. On an H22A 250hp should be extremely easy to obtain and maintain.
     
  11. iamane12d

    iamane12d Member

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    h22a's are not cheap
     
  12. kyleirwin

    kyleirwin Retired OG

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  13. saturn_boy96

    saturn_boy96 88 C1V1C 53D4N DR1V3R

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    so what we have discovered is that the cheapest and easiest way to a reliable honda engine with at least 300 whp is

    B18 or H22 with some block work, some head work and a custom turbo setup.


    about $10,000 worth of stuff.



    dude, that aint gonna be cheap.
     
  14. HighOnBoostH22A

    HighOnBoostH22A Junior Member

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    your people are idiots, seriously... get a clue before u start talking about shit...
     
  15. Domeskilla

    Domeskilla Senior Member

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    Thank you. Now go strap a turbo on but dont come cry b/c you aren't making the power you want.

    It takes parts and parts aren't cheap. Its a fucking science and we need to learn shit? You are the one asking about 300whp. Let me guess, you found out some civic in fnf was supposively pushing 300whp?

    I know what it takes to get to 300whp and do it RELIABLY and it will cost you your arm and ass.

    You can boost your heart out on stock internals, but that isn't reliable. Boosting on stock sleeves is reliable, but not to 300whp. You want something that will LAST, then do it fucking do it right and spend the time.. spending time to do it and doing it RIGHT will cost you.

    If you have a civic.. a h22 INTO the car will run at LEAST 3k plus whatever problems you run into (if you do it yourself). You can't just strap any turbo kit onto it b/c of clearence problems. You need to makesure the manifold/turbo will clear the Civic radiatior.

    Tuning will be a mother fucker with stock vtec cams b/c of the valve overlap.. i am not saying it can't be done.. its a bitch. VTEC turbo cams from crower are around 800-900 bucks. You can't expect 300whp to be breathing into a stock TB.. id get a ericks TB (another 350-400 bucks).. gotta have rods and pistons and shit. Need someone to BUILD it for you. Reliablity isn't just from the parts, but also how its put together.

    I forgot i dont know shit.
     
  16. bsi101

    bsi101 Junior Member

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    Go get a 250 profogger shot and tell all your friends your pushing 325whp. it'il cost around 900 bones and be just as reliable as a stock engine. (Just don't push the button!) :)
     
  17. bsi101

    bsi101 Junior Member

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    I appologize for my last reply, im an asshole... and i've been drinking.
     
  18. cockstronghalfablocklong

    cockstronghalfablocklong Member

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    dood the reason that every one is telling you to replace sleeves, pistons and rods is because the pressure you need to pump into an h22 to make 300whp will blow the fucker apart if you use stock internals. I also think you're gonna need custom axles and shit as well.
     
  19. Domeskilla

    Domeskilla Senior Member

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    The h22 HAS to be resleeved b/c of the teflon coating (unless someone has invented a solution)..

    Dude, you have a h22 forsale in the classifieds, why not use it? Auto h22 can be a fast motor, switch the cams for manuals and use that manual tranny you are showing and have the motor. Rip it apart and do the shit above.

    Also, if you use a b-series, you need a block guard to strengthen the top of the block and a gsr girdle wouldn't be bad for bottom end.

    You can get a small turbo and boost 20psi and make 300whp (smaller turbos are cheaper) but it will heat soak and be pushing it to hard.. get a big turbo, make the same power, less heat soak, but hey.. more lag.

    Its a science.. we've tried to help you and you call us idiots. So you figure it out.
     
  20. HighOnBoostH22A

    HighOnBoostH22A Junior Member

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    being new to the boards i thought i'd toss a question out there and see if any of you guys knew your shit... and i got my answer... it was a resounding "no"... i'm making 283/187 at the wheels with an f-max kit with nothing more than a head gasket that lowers the compression a bit and some ignition retard... that, and soem fuel management, and there ya go, almost 300whp with a 4500$ kit that's going to run strong for 15-20k miles... and what motor and tranny are u talking about??? u must have me confused with someone else...
     
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