whats the difference

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LOS222

Member
between a 3 plug obd1 p-13 ecu and a 4 plug obd1 p-13 ecu? I did a H22 swap in my accord and have a 2 to 1 harness. The harness is for 3 plug but my ecu is 4 plug. The car idles funny. Is this the problem? Please help!!!
 
from what i know...

the C plug on your ecu is for the h22 with auto trans AND traction control...


non-traction control p13's only have a, b and d plugs...

and the traction control h22 lost something like 20 or 40 horses, not sure if it was the ecu or the traction control mechanism that cost the horses though...
 
How can I tell which one I have? (engine) Would it be better if I had a 3 plug or use my 4 plug ecu?
 
dunno about the ecu's, wish i could help more...

and check the block stampings...
don't know that much about the traction control, but i heard they have something on the back of the block that the intermediate shaft goes through? or the axle?

honestly i don't know, hope this helps...
 
first of all, what tranny are you using- and are you auto or manual?

i've never heard of a 4-plug obd1 ecu. are you sure its an obd1?

http://hondata.com/techecuid.html

as you can see, the obd1 ecu is 3 ports. i don't even know where you'd fit a 4th row of plugs.
 
I thought the EARLY OBD1 4 plug was for cars with 4-wheel steering, and the later OBD2 stuff was where the traction control and auto trans equipped cars got 4 plug ECUs...

Have you already followed the helms procedure to set your idle? Are you throwing any codes?
 
The ecu is obd1. I'm using a 2 to 1 conversion harness. The harness has 3 plugs, the ecu has 4. I don't throw any codes. I've taken care of all that. I've been working on this swap for some time now and this is the final piece of the puzzle. Yes, it's a auto trans, but take a look at this:


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMEBWA%3AIT

Since my harness is 3 plug should I be using the type of ecu thats on the left? I have the kind thats on the right.

"My mechanic told me that .75 volts are supposed to go into your ecu. The p-13 ecu is showing 7 volts flat for the idle control valve. How do I correct this? Is my p-13 ecu bad? Can it be fixed? What options do I have?"

I posted the portion in quotes the other day but didn't get much help. Maybe this additional info will help one of you guys better understand what my problem is.
 
wow- i never saw that before.

if its for aws or traction control, and your car isn't equipped with them, i don't see why you can't just get away with no plugging it in???

perhaps it might throw a code... but i don't see why an "aws feature" would cause the ecu to go to limp mode... but again, im not sure.

i say use what you got now... see if it works. if not, then look into buying the 3-plug ecu.
 
My ecu does work. I took it out for the first time last night. Shifted great and the vtec kicked in hard. Gave me a big smile :D . The problem is when I'm at a standstill, idling. There were times earlier this week when we took it out for a test drive and the car just died when I was at a stop sign. My mechanic tweaked the idling somehow so it does not die but it is still not idling right. This is also causing me to get off the line slower than I should and we all know how important that first acceleration is. Any thoughts?
 
Ha HA, it's funny that you brought up that article pissedoffsol. I printed it about a week ago and gave it to my mechanic to try and save us both some time. Do you know who the guy was who fixed his idle problem or how I can get ahold of him?
 
i think the fast idle thermo valve should be added to the article, thats what caused my idle problem.
 
Originally posted by LOS222@Feb 2 2004, 03:12 PM
Ha HA, it's funny that you brought up that article pissedoffsol. I printed it about a week ago and gave it to my mechanic to try and save us both some time. Do you know who the guy was who fixed his idle problem or how I can get ahold of him?

drop him an email- pills@hondaswap.com
 
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