what's wrong with this car??? dyno chart included

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get_nick

These snozzberries taste like snozzberries...
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I was just surfing around the net looking at dyno charts and came across this ITR build. The guy who owns the page has a block on the copy function so i can only post the links instead of the actual pictures. so here is the link to the stuff i saw.

Dyno Chart


Mod List

I also think that he would have faster timeslips. These are pretty weak for the amount of money invested into a motor. plus this was on slicks. so what's the deal???

Timeslips

But my questions are....

A)what would cause that dip at 5500 RPM.
B)why so slow? i'm guessing bad driver
C)Why start with a jdm ITR motor just to replace everything but the pistons? why pick that for a starting point?
 
bad choice of VTEC engagement point, and maybe that JUN Chip....

13.3 is good, considering some of the K20 powered hatches run about the same times. it looks like he cant get enough traction off the line though(2.1 60s). the reason why it cost alot of $$ is maybe because hes paying mostly for the JUN name.

probally had the money or access to a ITR motor. ITR head flows the best out of the other stock heads; already has high cr pistons, bottom end can handle some stress/revs, etc.
 
umm, dunno, but if you click view and then source you can get the source code, or if you click on the image and hit the button next to the windows key (has a cursor and a menu on the button) you can get the source file too....
 
Quoted post[/post]]
A)what would cause that dip at 5500 RPM.
B)why so slow? i'm guessing bad driver
C)Why start with a jdm ITR motor just to replace everything but the pistons? why pick that for a starting point?

A. Looks like he is hitting VTEC too soon and bogging the motor... Could be a piss poor tune.

B. That isn't incredibly slow for a 200HP car. Not incredibly fast either.

c. It has a better flowing head and IM... I immagine a stronger block, but don't really have any idea about that. Looks like kind of a waste to me too, but if you have the money, hey... whatever.



He has three sets of wheels on his car? "Spoon SW388 16" Wheels, Bronze Volk Racing CE28N 15" Wheels, Gunmetal Volk Racing TE37 15" Wheels"
 
205.7HP.jpg


Motor Mods

JDM ITR Motor, B&M FPR and FPG, ES Exhaust w/2 1/2 Piping, AEM ITR CAI, ITR Fuel Pump, JUN 3 Cams, Jun Cam gears, JUN Springs & Ti Retainers, JUN ECU, JUN Header, C & R Radiator, Spoon Thermostat, Spoon Thermoswitch, Red Silicon Radiator upper and lower hoses, AGE Poly Lower Torque Mounts, HaSport Rear Drag Motor Mount, Place Racing Passenger and Driver Poly Motor Mounts, HKS Spark Plugs, Ultra Spark Plug Wires, Dyna Batt Baterry, MSD LED Shift Light mounted in AC Vents.
 
most of the mods listed dont even increase hp:
...C & R Radiator, Spoon Thermostat, Spoon Thermoswitch, Red Silicon Radiator upper and lower hoses, AGE Poly Lower Torque Mounts, HaSport Rear Drag Motor Mount, Place Racing Passenger and Driver Poly Motor Mounts, ..., Dyna Batt Baterry, MSD LED Shift Light mounted in AC Vents.

all it really is is a "JUN" package without the bottom-end mods.
 
Even an idiot with an AFC could tune that dip out of the torque and HP curves
 
Quoted post[/post]]

13.3 is good, considering some of the K20 powered hatches run about the same times. it looks like he cant get enough traction off the line though(2.1 60s). the reason why it cost alot of $$ is maybe because hes paying mostly for the JUN name.

probally had the money or access to a ITR motor. ITR head flows the best out of the other stock heads; already has high cr pistons, bottom end can handle some stress/revs, etc.


13.3 is NOT good for that motor. that should be into the 12's. he has slicks and i'm guessing ITR lsd so he should be quick off the line also. If you are building an entire Jun head and spend that much money flow ratios of a stock ITR head are irrelevant. With building a head of that caliber parts you would not take a shortcut by leaving the head stock. you would definitely take the head to a machine shop.


So.......I'm guessing the guy is

A )An Idiot with money
B )A liar
C )Both, an idiot and a liar
 
Quoted post[/post]]
13.3 is NOT good for that motor. that should be into the 12's. he has slicks and i'm guessing ITR lsd so he should be quick off the line also. If you are building an entire Jun head and spend that much money flow ratios of a stock ITR head are irrelevant. With building a head of that caliber parts you would not take a shortcut by leaving the head stock. you would definitely take the head to a machine shop.

Dude, its only what 205whp? Lots of the all-motor guys that are in the 12s have around 240-260whp and are 2 liters and weigh much less. If you didnt notice, he has FULL interior.

He may have not had port work done, but if he did there probally would have been a way longer down time since the car will have no head and cant run vs. a cam and valvetrain that you wait for it to be delivered and can be installed in a few hours. Also note that JUN DOES NOT make drag parts; if you look at their backround theyre biased towards road course. Hell, look at that guy's dyno, it has a pretty good torque curve minus that dip.

to me, you just sound like a hater :thumbsdown:
 
besides the dip, power doesnt seem low at all. just about right if you ask me. i mean hes only got cams and IHE. and he may not have even tuned it. hes got a jun ecu so im guessing it just threw it on and ran the dyno.
 
werd, jun 3's and 11:1 compression from the itr is ill-matched. he needs to be in the high 12:1's or more to effectively use those cams.

mis-matched parts.

15 grand for 15 horse gain.
i say that, cuz E put down 190 to the wheels. bone stock itr, i/h/e

i bet if i had an hour with him and a dyno, i could pick up 20 whp :p
 
Quoted post[/post]]
werd, jun 3's and 11:1 compression from the itr is ill-matched. he needs to be in the high 12:1's or more to effectively use those cams.

mis-matched parts.

15 grand for 15 horse gain.
i say that, cuz E put down 190 to the wheels. bone stock itr, i/h/e

i bet if i had an hour with him and a dyno, i could pick up 20 whp :p


i hate to change the direction of this thread, but are stage 3 cams (i.e. jun or skunk2) ok for daily driving? i mean with a good block and higher compression that is. he whould have way higher power than that. i was considering the skunk2 stage 3's myself. but i don't know anybody that has a daily driver with them installed.
 
Quoted post[/post]]
i hate to change the direction of this thread, but are stage 3 cams (i.e. jun or skunk2) ok for daily driving? i mean with a good block and higher compression that is. he whould have way higher power than that. i was considering the skunk2 stage 3's myself. but i don't know anybody that has a daily driver with them installed.

:yes:

Just tune it well.
 
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