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wheel bearing replacement

Discussion in 'General Tech and Maintenance' started by zcrex, Dec 30, 2003.

  1. zcrex

    zcrex Senior Member

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    i have a bad wheel bearing on my 89 crx and i was wondering if anyone had a how-to or could tell me some of the steps for replacing it. thanks.
     
  2. Captinb16

    Captinb16 Member

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    The front hub is the hardest part to get off. If you have super stength then you wont need a press. you could possably do it with a bench vise. And some flat head screw drivers or take it apart and take it to a shop to have them take it off. Make sure they dont damage the hubs taking it off. There like $150 each. And a dealer only item. You also need snap ring pliars. Wheel bearings are about $50 at the most.

    Its not fun. If there as bad as mine where those balls with fall out everywere. :lol:
     
  3. Captinb16

    Captinb16 Member

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    you will also need something like a fork to remove those upper ball joints. Its a long sliver well fork looking thing. Its made just for that. And be careful not to damage the boots on the ball joints although its carelessness if you do. Upper and tie rod attachments lower castle nut that holds the bottom. You can do this though without a press its just alot more work. I think ive only done this once.
     
  4. Magik

    Magik Senior Member

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    Umm...you don't need to remove the upper ball joint to replace the wheel bearing?? Disconnect the control arm assembly that has the ball joint right in it by removing the two 10mm nuts that hold a 'cap' in place over the ball joint castle nut. You have to cut the 'cotter pin' (buy some spare's before hand) and remove the pin, then the castle nut (17mm I think). You likely will have to use a hammer and tap on the top of the hub assembly to get the ball joint bolt to release...don't hit the boot!

    With that disconnected go to the bottom and on the bottom of the hub assembly is another castle nut (17mm or 19mm), disconnect the "pin" and nut as above and tap the assembly to release the lower ball joint bolt.

    Remove the castle nut and pin from the tie rod end (17mm I think) and then the whole assembly should be free...BE CAREFUL not to pull to hard and pull on the axle too much because you will dislodge it from the transmission...take out the assembly and do what you have to to it. To put back together...do the reverse.

    Personally I have always replaced the whole assembly instead of going through the hassle of pulling the bearing...pain in the ass as far as I'm concerned. I just put two 'used' assemblies from my STD on my Si in this manner because I had two bad wheel bearings on the front...I had already replaced the lower ball joints about 8 months ago on the STD so by replacing the whole assembly...I have two 'newer' lower ball joints.

    But you don't have to take out the upper ball joint to remove the assembly...OH!...and you have to remove the "spindle nut" in the center of the hub as well...it is a 1 3/4" nut...you will either need a impact or some extra elbow grease ;) (I use a ratchet and a pipe on the handle for extra torque)

    Hope this helps...let me know if you have question...I just did this last week.

    Jason

    PS> You have to remove your caliper and break line from the hub assembly to do this as well...that takes all of a minute...just tie the caliper with a coat hanger or something to the upper assembly out of your way... :)
     
  5. zcrex

    zcrex Senior Member

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    thanks for the replies. i need a new upper control arm too so i think i might just have to take a trip to the junkyard.
     
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