swanny
Senior Member
http://www.hmotorsonline.com is the only place to buy an engine from.
which swap for best price and power
- Thread starter BrimX
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Damn.... loads of crap flying around in here...
2400 isn't too much for a B16 engine. The ones you're seeing for under $2000 are typically non-OBD engines.
Contrary to what people are saying here in the thread, it's not THAT bad to change OBD revisions when you're dropping in a new engine. It's harder to put an older engine into a newer car- say a non-OBD engine into an OBD1 car, but it's not bad when you're trying to put an OBD2 engine into an OBD1 car. The easiest way is to still match the OBD revision of your new engine to your car- that way you don't have to buy conversion harnesses or rewire a bunch of extra stuff.
As far as mounts are concerned, your 5th gen Civic will actually take a B series engine with all OEM mounts. Our reference section has the diagram you need. A mix of Integra and Civic mounts is all you need to drop any B series engine into your Civic (except the B20A, don't even think about it). All B series engines mount the same (except the B20A), so don't worry about a B16/17/18/20 fitting different from each other. They're the same. If you want to buy an aftermarket mount kit, HASport is the way to go.
No B series engine will make 250hp naturally aspirated without going inside to crank up the compression. All B series engines are capable of making 250hp at the wheels reliably without modifying the internals if you use a turbo. Even a totally stock B16 will break 250whp easily with the right turbo setup.
The Type R engines do have higher compression than the rest of the B series engines, but a good tuner can make insane power with a turbo on a ITR or CTR engine. 400whp on stock internals has been done quite a few times on the ITR. The tuning has to be more precise because of the higher compression ratio, but the rewards are greater than on a lower compression engine. The power curve is also nicer with higher compression.
Speaking of power curves- they're MUCH more important than peak horsepower. The sweet power curve is why I'm staying all motor on my engine. I don't care about high power numbers as much as I care about the response and usable power of my engine. A turbocharged engine will make more power for the money than a naturally aspirated engine, but it relies on the turbo to make power- so you have to wait for spool, deal with lag etc. If you're looking for tons of power, bolting on a turbo is the way to go- but you'll have to wait for it.
It seems to me like you just want to roast your friend on the street or highway, so a turbocharged engine is right for you- but remember that peak power isn't always the most important thing.
As far as "a lot of money", you could easily be in over $10k for a turbocharged B swap if you're not careful. If you shop carefully and do most of the labor yourself, you could be done for under $5k. The cheapest way to be swapped and turbod is to drop in a non-VTEC B18, then put together your own turbo kit. You'll easily be able to break 250whp- even 300whp on a stock internal B18- just choose the right parts and go to the right tuner.
2400 isn't too much for a B16 engine. The ones you're seeing for under $2000 are typically non-OBD engines.
Contrary to what people are saying here in the thread, it's not THAT bad to change OBD revisions when you're dropping in a new engine. It's harder to put an older engine into a newer car- say a non-OBD engine into an OBD1 car, but it's not bad when you're trying to put an OBD2 engine into an OBD1 car. The easiest way is to still match the OBD revision of your new engine to your car- that way you don't have to buy conversion harnesses or rewire a bunch of extra stuff.
As far as mounts are concerned, your 5th gen Civic will actually take a B series engine with all OEM mounts. Our reference section has the diagram you need. A mix of Integra and Civic mounts is all you need to drop any B series engine into your Civic (except the B20A, don't even think about it). All B series engines mount the same (except the B20A), so don't worry about a B16/17/18/20 fitting different from each other. They're the same. If you want to buy an aftermarket mount kit, HASport is the way to go.
No B series engine will make 250hp naturally aspirated without going inside to crank up the compression. All B series engines are capable of making 250hp at the wheels reliably without modifying the internals if you use a turbo. Even a totally stock B16 will break 250whp easily with the right turbo setup.
The Type R engines do have higher compression than the rest of the B series engines, but a good tuner can make insane power with a turbo on a ITR or CTR engine. 400whp on stock internals has been done quite a few times on the ITR. The tuning has to be more precise because of the higher compression ratio, but the rewards are greater than on a lower compression engine. The power curve is also nicer with higher compression.
Speaking of power curves- they're MUCH more important than peak horsepower. The sweet power curve is why I'm staying all motor on my engine. I don't care about high power numbers as much as I care about the response and usable power of my engine. A turbocharged engine will make more power for the money than a naturally aspirated engine, but it relies on the turbo to make power- so you have to wait for spool, deal with lag etc. If you're looking for tons of power, bolting on a turbo is the way to go- but you'll have to wait for it.
It seems to me like you just want to roast your friend on the street or highway, so a turbocharged engine is right for you- but remember that peak power isn't always the most important thing.
As far as "a lot of money", you could easily be in over $10k for a turbocharged B swap if you're not careful. If you shop carefully and do most of the labor yourself, you could be done for under $5k. The cheapest way to be swapped and turbod is to drop in a non-VTEC B18, then put together your own turbo kit. You'll easily be able to break 250whp- even 300whp on a stock internal B18- just choose the right parts and go to the right tuner.
civiclxb16
Senior Member
just my .02 but the obd2a is 96-98 for the civic and obd2b is 99-00 might even be for the 01 not sure