Why Am I Hard Starting?

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Hey, everybody. Sorry I've been out of the loop. Been a busy boy over the past two weeks, so I haven't been able to turn any wrenches on the ailing car. I'll have to remedy that over the next few days. I'm going to check the fuel system. I have a couple of questions for you.

Question 1: Can anybody give me insight into hooking up a fuel pressure guage to my car? I'm used to there just being a schrader valve that the guage hooks into. Can't seem to find one on my car. Do I have to buy a special fitting? If so, where can I get one?

Question 2: I want to test the "leaky injector" theory. What I'll probably do is pull the fuel rail off, re-attach the electrical connectors with the injectors out of the cylinders, and pressurize the system. Any advice on the best way to do this? If I turn the key on, will the fuel system automatically pressurize? If so, I should see any leaks at that time, right? I don't have to turn it over, do I?

Question 3: How in the heck do you check a fuel pressure regulator? I have no clue there, other than to disconnect the vacuum line to see if fuel leaks out, which would indicate a leaky diaphragm.

Okay, that's all I've got for now. Drop me a line and let me know what you guys think. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jon
 
I cant make any new suggestions to diagnose your problem, but i would advise not driving or limiting your use of the car until you resolve the issue. If it is a head gasket or if the cylinder is constantly flooding, it will displace the oil and wear the hell out of that cylinder. I have a buddy whos head gasket started leaking and he putt off fixing it till he smoked his main bearings. "I was just about to fix it when it blew up." :mad:
 
Do you get any petrol on the floor while the car is idling, do this when you first start it up and leaving it running for a few minutes.
 
Okay, guys... sorry that I haven't posted anything in a while. It's just that the hard start seems to have fixed itself. Well, kind of. I'm not having any problems with starting, but I think that's because summer is gone. I don't know what it is, but I'm now convinced that the problem is only present when it's hot out. I'm having no troubles starting right now, but about two weeks ago, it got up to 90 and I had a little bit of trouble that day. But, right now and ever since then, nothing. So, I guess I won't be writing anything until March or April, huh?!

I do have a cooling system question, though. Remember how I said that my cooling problem was back? Well, for the longest time, I couldn't find the leak. I pressurized the system, and nothing. Every once in a while, I'd see the temperature guage creep up and I'd have to put in more coolant. But, I drive it on the highways all the time, and it's a once-in-a-blue-moon type of deal. For the most part, nothing. Anyway, on Thursday, I decided to flush the cooling system. I wanted to get more coolant in before winter came. Well, I must've done something wrong, cuz on Friday, I was leaking coolant everywhere. Had to leave town for a wedding, so I couldn't inspect until today. I slid under the car and figured out where the coolant is coming from. There's a little hole on the back side of the motor right next to the timing cover. The coolant is seeping out of there. Is that a weep hole for the water pump? I'm guessing that it is and that I must've pissed off my water pump when I flushed the system. Anybody know anything about that task? Is it as big of a bitch as it appears. Gotta tear into that whole side of the motor to change it, timing belt and all, don't I?

All right, if you guys can give me some insight into my cooling woes, I'd greatly appreciate it. In the mean time, thanks for everything.

Jon
 
It is probably the water pump bearings completely failing on you. You probably didn't notice the leak before because it was too small for any noticeable amount of fluid to leak at any given time. Change your timing belt and water pump, it's not that big a deal. You said you are running a vtec 2.2 Liter, I assume that to be the H22. If so, most h22 guys will tell you to also convert from the auto tensioner to the manual tensioner for hte timing belt, as they are much less prone to failure. Fix or change out your main relay, they are cheap to replace, and will save you the headache of the hard starts. .
 
Okay, fellas... I'm about to embark on my first Honda water pump / timing belt change. I think I'm going to need a little help here. I've done the same type of job on Mitsubishi engines, and it doesn't look all that different. But, I've run across a few questions while perusing my manual, and I was wondering if you could lend me some insight.

The job itself seems relatively cut and dry. Tedious... but cut and dry no less. My major question is about the specialty Honda tools that my manual recommends. I only saw two while I was reading. One is the huge hex tool that holds the crankshaft pulley in place while you loosen the pulley bolt. Honda calls it the "Pulley Holder Attachment". The other is the tool that holds the balance shaft in place while you change the belt. This one is called the "Balance Shaft Lock Pin".

When I did the job on my Mitsubishi, I remember that specialty tools were recommended for both on that car as well. However, I remember that I was able to get by without the specialty tools on both accounts. For the balance shaft, if memory serves me correct, I think I just used a small philips screw driver. Can this be done on the Honda?

The crank pulley bolt was a little trickier. I used a rather unconventional method to break loose the one on my Mitsubishi. I wedged a breaker bar against the floor and put the socket on the pulley bolt. Then, I tapped the starter and let the engine break the bolt loose. Maybe not the smartest thing to do, but it worked. I wonder if I can do that on this one. I know the engine turns counter-clockwise. That means that the crank bolt would have to have reverse threads for this to work. Anybody know if that's the case?

So, I guess I'm wondering if you guys can give me a little insight on these. Right now, I do not have access to an air ratchet (which would make it much easier to bust the crank bolt loose). I'm going to have to use physics and mechanics to get it done. Any advice on the best way to go about it? Oh, and maybe include a little insight on the cam shaft bolt as well. That one might be a bitch too. Maybe not, though. I think if I put a breaker bar on the crank bolt, I think I can loosen the cam bolt, no problem.

All right... I thank you in advance for your help, and sorry I got so long-winded. Just not really wanting to buy a bunch of specialty tools from Honda that I'll only use once. I figure that you guys will know whether or not I need them.

Thanks for the help.
Jon
 
Um.. I am not sure about the h22, and how much different it is from a b-series as far as changing the timing belt. I can tell you I've never dealt with a balance shaft, as the b-series engines don't have one. The crank pulley bolts are standard right handed threads, so wedging a breaker between the ground and car isn't going to work. I'd just go to a cool shop you know of and ask them to break the bolt loose for you, retighten it enough to get it home, and then work from there - that is what I have always done. Otherwise, buy the tool. For the camshaft bolts, I wasn't aware that you even need to remove them. You have a manual, correct?
 
Okay, fellas... I'm about to embark on my first Honda water pump / timing belt change. I think I'm going to need a little help here. I've done the same type of job on Mitsubishi engines, and it doesn't look all that different. But, I've run across a few questions while perusing my manual, and I was wondering if you could lend me some insight.

The job itself seems relatively cut and dry. Tedious... but cut and dry no less. My major question is about the specialty Honda tools that my manual recommends. I only saw two while I was reading. One is the huge hex tool that holds the crankshaft pulley in place while you loosen the pulley bolt. Honda calls it the "Pulley Holder Attachment". The other is the tool that holds the balance shaft in place while you change the belt. This one is called the "Balance Shaft Lock Pin".

When I did the job on my Mitsubishi, I remember that specialty tools were recommended for both on that car as well. However, I remember that I was able to get by without the specialty tools on both accounts. For the balance shaft, if memory serves me correct, I think I just used a small philips screw driver. Can this be done on the Honda?

The crank pulley bolt was a little trickier. I used a rather unconventional method to break loose the one on my Mitsubishi. I wedged a breaker bar against the floor and put the socket on the pulley bolt. Then, I tapped the starter and let the engine break the bolt loose. Maybe not the smartest thing to do, but it worked. I wonder if I can do that on this one. I know the engine turns counter-clockwise. That means that the crank bolt would have to have reverse threads for this to work. Anybody know if that's the case?

So, I guess I'm wondering if you guys can give me a little insight on these. Right now, I do not have access to an air ratchet (which would make it much easier to bust the crank bolt loose). I'm going to have to use physics and mechanics to get it done. Any advice on the best way to go about it? Oh, and maybe include a little insight on the cam shaft bolt as well. That one might be a bitch too. Maybe not, though. I think if I put a breaker bar on the crank bolt, I think I can loosen the cam bolt, no problem.

All right... I thank you in advance for your help, and sorry I got so long-winded. Just not really wanting to buy a bunch of specialty tools from Honda that I'll only use once. I figure that you guys will know whether or not I need them.

Thanks for the help.
Jon

I would not recommend the jamming something in the pulley route... it didn't work for me and only resulted in some damage to the pulley and the timing cover.
the pulley bolt is tightened the direction of rotation (at least it is on my Honda) so you wont be able to bump the starter. The bolt you need to get off isn't supposed to be the tightest one on the car, but it is.
Here is what I did that worked out really nicely.
I took about a 2.5" x 6' piece of nylon webbing from a cargo tie down strap and wrapped it about 3-4 times around the pulley like I was wrapping tape on it, then took the last foot or so to the nearby axle and tied it on there. When I began to turn the bolt on the pulley the nylon tightened up and held it in place so I could break it free. My car is not the same as yours and you will have to find a good spot to tie to and figure out which way to wrap the pulley, but it does work. In my case I filled the alternator portion of the pulley completely with a peice of the old alternator belt (since they were all getting replaced anyway) to give the nylon more to grab. Oh you will want a nice long 1/2" (or bigger) breaker bar and probably 12" or more of extension to get the leverage you will need.

As for my cam gear, there is no reason to remove it, just loosen the tensioner and the belt should slide off, the new one will be tighter and fight more. I am sure you have already got this but start at TDC and mark the old belt and pulley teeth then transfer the marks to the new belt so you can get the new one on at exactly the same spot (meaning you dont have extra teeth on one side).

Good luck, Hope this helps
 
Okay, everyone... job complete!! First off, I wanted to thank everyone for all of their input. I ended up just taking the car to a shop and they charged me fifteen bucks to pop the crank bolt loose. Once I got back home, the whole job went much smoother than I'd anticipated. I've never done anything like this on a Honda. I believe in my abilities, so I was fairly confident going in. It was nice when I turned her over and she popped off right away. Great sense of accomplishment in the end.

I've got one question, though. I already know what most of you are going to say, but I'm going to ask it anyway. Tightening the crank bolt was just as interesting as loosening it. See, I still don't have the means and extremes to lock the engine in place. So, when I tried to torque it down, the engine tried to turn every time. In the manual, it recommended that I not use any sort of impact wrench. Well, I didn't really know what to do. My buddy manages a parts store and they've got an electric impact there. It's not heavy duty by any stretch of the imagination. So, I had him bring it over and I used that to tighten the bolt. I'm 100% positive that it didn't over-torque it or anything. Everything seems to be working fine. Do you guys think I'll be okay as it is, or do I really need to get off of my ass and find out whether the bolt is tight enough? Can't believe I'm even asking this question. Guess I'm just being cheap, lazy, or both!!

Okay, this thread will probably lie dormant for a while. Like I said, the hard-starting is on hiatus, so I have to wait until that problem rears it's ugly head before starting in again on that problem. Until then, wish me luck with all things car related!!

Thanks again for all of your help.
Jon
 
All right, guys... I just had the mother of all hard starts. Even though I haven't written in a little while, my hard start has been creeping back in over the past week or two, steadily getting worse and worse. Well, tonight, I hit rock-bottom. I'm going to explain in great detail what just happened and invite as much feedback as I can get. I'm really, really stumped, and to be honest with you, I'm now leaning away from fuel delivery problems and spark problems and thinking that maybe this is an emissions issue. I'm an idiot at diagnosis, though, so if you do not agree, feel free to shoot down anything I say.

Okay, here's Jon's story. I went to the video store to grab a few DVDs for the evening. I was in the store for around 30-45 minutes. I came out to the car, ready to go home, and tried to start her up. For the first time EVER (since the beginning of my hard start issue, I mean) my hard start became a no start. I turned her over and turned her over and nothing. Not even the slightest hiccup to let me know that she was even trying to fire. It's been suggested to me over and over again that the MFR might be bad. So, at this point, I'm thinking that that's what it is. These people also have said that if you wait half an hour or so, often times this no-start will fix itself and the car will miraculously start. I wasn't far from home and I had my skates in the back, so I headed home to do a little MFR research while I waited to see if the problem was going to work itself out. I was gone maybe another 45 minutes. So, we're looking at a total of 1:30-1:45 since she'd been running.

Anyway, I get back to the car and cross my fingers. Same story. Extended crank without even the slightest indication that she wants to fire. At this point, I was still thinking MFR. I get out of the car, grab a screw driver, pull the #1 plug wire, and set it up so that I can crank the car and see whether spark will jump to ground. I start to crank her and see spark right away. So, I reconnect the plug, shut the hood and hop back into the driver's seat. I decided to try again. I cranked her over, off and on, for about the next three minutes, and finally, I decide to give up. I hadn't gotten any indication whatsoever that she wanted to fire, so why wouldn't I? I got out of the car, went into the video store to ask them not to tow my car, then came back out to contemplate my next move.

So, I'm coming back out to the car, and I hop back into the driver's seat. By this point, it's been almost two hours since she'd run. The temperature is only 48 degrees out, so I'm doubting the validity of the hot weather MFR failure scenario. Everything's quiet where I'm at, so I hop inside the car and turn on the key. I'm listening for MFR relay click and also to see if the pump is powering up when I turn on the key. Heard one click from the dashboard, but that one was in conjunction with the Check Engine Light turning off. I DO hear the pump, however. I turn the key off and on a few times, and everytime, I can hear the pump cycle on.

So, now I'm doubting MFR problems and thinking along the lines of crank or cam sensors. That wouldn't explain the rough idle on start-up, but hell... right now I don't even have start up. I'd all but given up and decided to walk home when I decided that one more try wouldn't hurt. So, I let her rip. Now, I know I'm not supposed to do this, but I decided to hold the key for an extended period of time. I'm rolling the starter for about 30 seconds when I get the slightest little hiccup from the car during turnover. It's not that she actually tried to start, but at least it was a slight indication that fuel and fire were getting into the cylinders at the right times. So, I tried to roll her over again. Same thing. After a little while, I get the slight little hiccup during the extended crank. Once again, though, nothing that could be mistaken for a genuine attempt at idling by the car.

Now, I try another idea. I decide to crank her over for just a few seconds at a time, one right after another. I crank the starter for about 2 seconds, then release, then wait a second and repeat. About every third or fourth time I do this, something happens. It's a little more than a hiccup this time, but not quite into the realm of "attempting to idle". But, it is a source of optimism. So, I decide to flutter the hell out of the gas whenever this happens. The next time it does, I jack-hammer the hell out of the accelerator and she tries to run. Very poorly, but tries to run no less. She never actually gets to idle, but before completely dying, she decides to back-fire on me. It wasn't the loud, firecracker kind of backfires that I'm used to. Like the kind you get out of the tailpipe. It kinda sounded like the car coughed back at me through the intake and the throttle body.

The whole process is still getting better, though, so I repeat what I'm doing. Two more times, I get the "attempted idle" and "backfire before dying". Then, on the fourth time, she decided to run for me. It starts out really bad. The idle is REALLY rough. I can't over-emphasize how rough the idle was. She coughs at me a few times, but somehow keeps from dying. Then, slowly but surely, the idle starts to get stronger. She stops shaking... then, just like that, the idle catches. The tach shoots up to 1200 rpm (or whatever the cold-idle rpm is) and the car runs like a dream. No hesitation. No missing. It was just like nothing was wrong. I drove her home and she ran like a champion. I don't get it!!

The only thing I can think of is vapor lock. You know the way old carbureted cars used to do that? Well, I didn't think that fuel injected cars really did that, since FI systems run at higher pressure. But, that's the only thing I can think of. It feels to me like my car is choking on it's own exhaust and has to spit out whatever it's choking on in order to run like it's supposed to.

So, what do you guys think? I'm baffled. This is some ridiculous shit. If you can help or lend me any type of experience or expertise, I'd greatly appreciate anything you can tell me. Oh, and thanks for reading this epic. Sorry if you fell asleep half way through.

I thank you in advance for any help that you can give.
Jon
 
Clogged exhaust?
Check the cat to see if it heats up like it should after running for a while. The ceramics could've broken up and clogged the exhaust.
Or disconect the exhaust at the header and run it open-header, if that helps, it's clogged exhaust. If not look elsewhere.

Old gunked up injectors?
Car could've been dumpin fuel without gettin a good spray - flooding.
Run some injector cleaner through it to see if that helps. If it does, buy new injectors.

That's all i got. Don't expect any of my suggestions to actually work.
 
Unburnt fuel passing throught the cylinder into the exhaust will give a backfire. Might be a "no spark/weak spark" issue but could be a rich/lean condition as well (you said you smell fuel when it hard starts which pretty well rules out lean). When you changed your ignition components did you make extra effin sure you got all your connectors deep into the cap and the boots aren't pulling them loose? I replaced my cap/rotor/wires and after a week one on the wires popped out enough to cause a intermittent miss/late burn, jumping 2 gaps cuts way down on the heat of the spark. I went back and pushed the connectors out the end of the boots and then pressed them in with pliers to make dam sure they stay put. Grab a spark test light from Harbor Freight for like $4 and see if you get strong spark on all cyliders next time it won't start. I might start thinking about your coil and if the power/ ground connections are all tight too. If you smell unburnt gas I would spend my time looking at ignition before I spent any time looking for problems in the fuel system. The problem arising when the car is warm makes me suspect electrical troubles.

Good luck
 
All right, guys (and gals). I wanna thank you for all of your input. I think I figured out what's wrong. I've suspected this was the deal for a while (since I was in California during the summer, in fact), but tried to deny the truth as long as I could. I'm afraid I can't do that anymore. Drumroll, please. Those of you who suggested that I check the head gasket... looks like you'll be getting gold stars for the day.

I went out to the car today, filled her with coolant, then fired her up with the radiator cap off. Holy hell!! Coolant shot straight outta the filler neck and up into the air about 18 inches. Once she was running, I filled her up again, and, sure enough, I saw bubbles. Not really the "gusher" that most people talked about. But, bubbles no less. The gusher came when I fired her up. So, I really don't see anything else that it could be besides a head gasket.

So, now I guess it's time to ask for some advice. I'll probably embark on the job next week. I don't want to start on it right away. I do have a few questions for all of you, though. If you could lend me a little feedback, I'd appreciate it. I've never
done a head gasket on a Honda before. I've done them on Mitsubishi motors, so the only basis for comparison I have for a front wheel drive four cylinder will have to come from that. The Mitsu was a dual cam, though. My Accord is only a single. So, I'm going to post some questions. Feel free to help me out with any suggestions you have.

Oh, and I realize that I've asked some of these questions before. Just hoping for more input. Here we go:

First off, what will I need? A head set, obviously. Most times, it would be recommended that I replace the timing belt and the water pump. Just did both of those a couple of weeks ago, so I'm good there. Anything else you guys can think of?

How about specialty tools?

Don't use Roloc or any other abrasive products on the aluminum parts, right? What should I clean the gasket surfaces with, then? Sand paper? Emery cloth? Nothing?

Copper gasket spray on the head gasket or not?

How much time should I allot? A couple of days?

Plane the head, or just check it to see if it's straight? Also, will the cam need to come off of the head when I take it in to be planed? I would imagine so, huh? Don't they steam clean those things before they even start?

How about the block? It's aluminum, right? Will it need to be planed? Do they warp often? Should I just mic it to see if it's straight? If it's not, I'll have to pull the motor, right?

Head bolts? Should I replace them? The foremost Honda mechanic in Lincoln, NE told me that he never does and has never run into any problems. Plus, Fel-Pro doesn't offer a head bolt set. That usually indicates that they can be re-used. Usually, whenever the manufacturer recommends replacement of the head bolts for every head job, Fel-Pro will offer a set in the aftermarket. They don't on this car.

That's all I can think of right now. If you guys know any more tricks of the trade, I'd appreciate and secrets you can tell me. In the mean time, thanks again for all of your input.

Jon
 
i forget what kind of engine this is (and my comment works for all 88+ hondas) but you will want the timing belt removal tool (available from snap on and honda). While you can do it if your impact is really good, there are some cases where the impact wont get the crank nut off. The tool locks the pulley in place while you work on the crank bolt (it attaches to a breaker bar, and then i usually wedge the bar against the ground).

Its not always necessary, but it helps if youve got a stubborn crank bolt.
 
Sorry to hear that :(

Ah well, plan on several days since you will need machinist services and that will be during the week. Have the head pressure tested and surfaced if its good, buy the head set before hand and give the new seals with the head to the shop (cam and valve seals). Total should run under $100 if your head is reusable.

Clean your block with a brand new wide wood chisel and extreme care, nothing else will be nearly as effective at removing the old gasket. Keep an eye on the chisel edge and make sure no burrs develop that will dig into the aluminum. Keep the shop vac right there to suck up the bits as they come off.. Final clean with brake cleaner and a good rag.

Don't use the spray unless its called for specifically, if your head gasket is graphite coated then definately not. I liked the set I got from NAPA.. the Victor Reinz set was much beefier than the OEM around the cylinders.

Take your time and it should go well
 
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I'm in the middle of everything right now. The job is going well except for one thing. I've got the head loose, but can't pull it out of the car because the coolant pipe that runs between the water pump and the thermostat housing won't let go at the t-stat. Any idea why this is? Is it just an o-ring that has to be popped loose, or are there still bolts holding it in? Can't tell for sure.

If you can help, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks
Jon
 
It's just an o-ring holding it in place, but you probably found that out, seeing that this is a 4 day old response.
 
Guess What, Guys!! I fixed her!!! Well, almost. Even though more than a few people suggested that I was making a mistake, I decided to go ahead and change the head gasket. The dissenters seem to feel that I was undertaking such a huge job without proper diagnosis. While I took heed to what they said, here are the reasons that I ultimately decided that I needed a new head gasket:

1. Loss of coolant, yet when I'd pressurize the system, no leak could be found.
2. Excessive pressure in the cooling system. I would have coolant blowing back out of the overflow reservoir and the hoses felt really, really pressurized when the car was running. I think that this is ultimately what led to my leaky water pump.
3. Steam from the tail-pipe. I denied the existence of this for a long time, trying to convince myself that the little bit of white stuff coming out of my exhaust was nothing more than engine heat. You know... all cars do that when the weather's cold. But, the more I watched other cars, the more I realized that they didn't have as much "heat" as I did.
4. The geyser that shot out of my radiator when I took the cap off and started the car without putting it back on. Coolant shot about 18 inches into the air.
5. My hard start. This was getting worse and worse.

Here's my theory. When the car was running, the combustion chamber was producing way more pressure than the cooling system. That much is obvious. If the head gasket isn't holding, the high pressure will spill over to the low pressure side. That causes excessively pressurized hoses, leaky water pumps, blow back into the cooling reservoir, and geysers when the car is started with no radiator cap. When the car is shut down, now the cooling system has way more pressure than the combustion chamber, much more, if the head gasket isn't sealing. If said gasket will allow, this pressure will bleed back from the cooling system into the combustion chamber, sending coolant with it. Now, the next time I start, unless this coolant has evaporated, I've got to start a car with at least one cylinder full of coolant. That explains the hard start and the steam coming from the back.

Pretty air-tight theory, if you ask me. Especially considering that none of these problems have come back since I replaced the head gasket. No coolant loss. The hoses aren't so tight when the cars running. Haven't checked for the geyser, but no cooland blows back into the overflow reservoir. Normal amount of steam from behind now. And most importantly, not a single hard start since I got her running again.

I'm not quite finished, though. Every once in a while, the Check Engine Light decides to turn itself on. This has NEVER happened in the entire time that I owned the car, so it's gotta be related to what I just did. I'm guessing that I didn't get a sensor or a vacuum line hooked up quite right or at all. Problem is, I'm relatively new to Honda, so I don't know how to pull the codes. Can anyone help on this?

One last thing before I go. Remember when I asked about cleaning the aluminum surfaces of gasket material. I found the perfect way to do it. No one mentioned this before, so I'll do it now. 3M makes a Roloc disc called the "bristle disk" (I think that's what it's called). Many people refer to it as a "finger disc" (or something like that). It's a really soft disk with little fingers on it made of soft rubber and designed to clean aluminum surfaces without damaging the metal. They're about seven bucks and the adapter for an air tool is about ten more. I used only one disk on the whole job and it made my life a lot easier. I recommend the hell out of these things to everyone.

All right, that's all I've got. I thank you again for all of your help, and hope that you can help me with this CEL problem. Then we can put this thread to bed.

Jon
 
All right, I checked out the CEL problem. Here's the code I get:

9 Short Blinks
Pause
1 Long Blink
Pause
2 Short Blinks
Pause
1 Long Blink
Pause
1 Long Blink
Pause
2 Short Blinks
Pause
9 Short Blinks (Repeats From Here)

I wouldn't have expected the two consecutive long blinks. I thought all CEL codes were two digits. Isn't that odd? Sure enough, though, that's the pattern: 9S-1L-2S-1L-1L-2S-9S (or 9-12-112-9, if you want to look at it that way). Seems weird to me.

If anyone can help with this, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks
Jon
 
9-12-22

9*- Accord Civic CRV CRX Del Sol Odyssey Prelude
85-98** 86-98 97-98 85-91 93-97 95-98 85-98
CYP Sensor (Cylinder)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
* not a valid code for any throttle body injection Hondas
** not a valid code for V-6 engines

12- Accord Civic CRV CRX Del Sol Odyssey Prelude
85-98 86-98 * n/a 85-91 * n/a 95-98 85-98
EGR Lift Sensor (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
* not a valid code if car is not equipped with an EGR valve (some Civic models are not)

22*- Accord Civic CRV CRX Del Sol Odyssey Prelude
94-98 92-98 n/a n/a 93-97 98 93-98`
VTEC Oil Pressure Switch
defective circuit or unplugged / defective oil pressure switch
* not a valid code if car does not have a VTEC engine
 
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