WHy won't my car start!!

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poops87

Member
<span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%">NO Crank over just the dash lights up and Check engine light flashes for a second, injectors spray and then it doesn't crank over plenty of juice i was thinking it had an intermitent (spelling?) wire for the main relay or the distributer somthing that isn't giving the starter the "OK" to crank

Any suggestions welcome including being told to <strike>die</strike>, are good, but topic related suggestions preferred.</span>
 
In addition to the things listed above, it could also be the neutral safety switch.
 
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In addition to the things listed above, it could also be the neutral safety switch.

I think it might be that i Did convert the car from AT to MT and the shifter electronic mechanism is still connected i don't know what to do with it if i cut them all off what will happen and cap them?
 
Since the swap, has it ever started ? Like, is this a new problem "all of the sudden"? I can also read by the handle that it's an 87 - but an 87 what ?
 
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Since the swap, has it ever started ? Like, is this a new problem "all of the sudden"? I can also read by the handle that it's an 87 - but an 87 what ?

Yeah it has started i have been driving it since december across the country from PA to FL
Every ONce in a while it just won't start i have no clue why!!??
87 is my brith year sorry it is an 88 ZC though lol
 
From the battery, signal to the keyswitch (Switch) to the safety start (Be it automatic or the clutch switch)(Switch) to the signal input of the starter must be above a certain amperage to kick the solenoid over. Then, from the solenoid to the start is another draw. IF you start out with 12 volts at the battery, across all those switches (Which can get old and more resistive) by the time the signal gets to the starter, it's too weak. The result: Occasionally it just CAN'T be started.

I had two Celicas that got this same exact problem, at the same exact time. I had to wire a new run to all these points. In the meantime, I simply put in a button to the starter (in the car that I sold to George7777). this may be your only fix.

In my CRX the key ignition pack itself was to blame - and that wasn't cheap to repair. But I could tell that by using a real multimeter on the starter signal wire (Not the big power wire, the little one). I measured the current at different points, and found taht the keyswitch itself was bad.

oh god, that reminds me.. I told George7777 that I was gonna go pick that car up... oh no..
 
the automatics have a neutral/park safety switch in the shifter mechanism - when doing auto to manual swap, you need to connect the wires in order to get power to the starter relay - right by the shifter there should be a 2-wire connector (white) with 2 black with white stripe wires - you need to connect them together - do you have a safety switch on the clutch pedal that prevents it from starting without the clutch depressed? - also, by the shifter you have wiring for the back-up light switch (which is on the transmission on the manual) - you need to get them connected in order for lights to work - there is also an interlock switch that will prevent you from removing the key unless you are in park, but you don't have park any longer - you need to wire around that also
 
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From the battery, signal to the keyswitch (Switch) to the safety start (Be it automatic or the clutch switch)(Switch) to the signal input of the starter must be above a certain amperage to kick the solenoid over. Then, from the solenoid to the start is another draw. IF you start out with 12 volts at the battery, across all those switches (Which can get old and more resistive) by the time the signal gets to the starter, it's too weak. The result: Occasionally it just CAN'T be started.
WOW great info thanks
Can't i just replace the switches ?? What needs to be replaced??
 
In my experience, you're talking about a complete re-wire and unless you're a wiring GURU I wouldn't even suggest anyone works with their cars.
 
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