Won't Start - Searched - Need Help.

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

Make sure you get that head checked out really good before you but it back on. You might have damaged a valve guide when the piston hit it. Also make sure the head isn't warped or anything like that.
 
OK, new cylinder head (that thing is mint). And new gasket.

Still no Start.

Now my check engine light is on.

I'm out of ideas.

Leave those get a new engine and new car type thing.
 
Pull the codes from the ECU and post back with which codes are causing the check engine light.
 
Yeah for real.. I wish I could just look at the car in person, but that's not going to happen. It's so hard to fix some of these problems over the internet sometimes.... :(
 
Check Engine light fixed it was a some coolant sensor on the side of the head under distributor.

Ok so I get the car started finally! Well for like 10 min. Car started up everything was good ( after taking top end apart 2 times in the last 10 hour period)

It was on the jack stands, and I get inside to rev the engine a bit. On my first rev to like 5k rpm (not even redline) first rev ever, Something happened (kinda like when you replace rod bearings and start if for the first time its a bit hard to turn over) and engine just shut down. I was able to start it up again and it had trouble keeping idle then just died.

Now when I turn my key it feels like its trying to turn the engine over but it can't turn it over.

I tried turning motor over by hand and broke my socket (craftsman).

Oil was in the car btw.

one problem after another.

So are my main bearings just decided to die all of the sudden?
 
Last edited:
your motor is locked up or something is holding it back, try turning it backwards, if nothing search ebay for another engine
 
Last edited:
if you cant fix it and are anywhere near ohio i have a cheap mini me swap sitting in my garage
 
take off your valve cover and count your valves. Sounds like what happened to me when my Zc dropped it's #3 intake valve
 
I think its something internal, with rods and crank to be more specific. Bacause the head is pretty mint.

I think what happened is this - when I put the head on the block, I really had trouble to get timing belt on and was moving the crank to set the timing right. I turned it once 180 to have belt in a different position because I was really worried to tear it with a screwdriver. Finally I get it on and check timing etc.

DON'T TURN MOTOR OVER WITH NO OIL IN THE CAR <----------- is the lesson I learned the hard way.

My motor is old 230k. Bearings are old too.

So my only exlanation to what actually happened is due to oil starvation one of the main engine bearings decided to die. Maybe on the tranny side.

Btw, timing belt is ok because I have cam cover off.

My only idea is to pull the pan and crank griddle and check out whats going on.

Rainer, thanks for the offer in regards to mini me , im in california, all my problems started with y8 gasket originally. Over all these D's are pretty anemic motors.
 
Check valves they are all there.

One was a bitch to see because the valve was open , and it was on the intake side.
 
thats good, because dropped valves suck. If you turned the motor over by hand with no oil, it didnt damage the bearings. Even if you did bump the starter, turning it 180 wouldnt kill it. Its not good, but it wont kill it. Unless your saying you tried starting it repeatedly with no oil, yes thats bad for bearings. heat from friction is what kills em. easiest way to check it is to pull the pan off and remove the caps, and check for gauges in the bearings or if one has spun.
 
Most likely its something in regards to the crankshaft and rods. Something mechanical is preventing the car from turning over. It can make one revolution and then stop again, so its something internal for sure.

Blackice, I would have to disagree in regards to turning the motor over when there is no oil. Because when I replaced headgasket one of the first times, motor needed to be out of the car(long story) and then when I was setting timing I spun a rod bearing in less then a week it was on #4 rod. And now same thing.

Also I would think that dropped valve would definately suck.

Thanks to everyone who took their time to help me get this car on the road. I'm going to start looking for a stock d16a6 motor with low miles ( good luck!). Or at least a short block around So CA area.

Piston rings are shot on this motor and it burns mad oil and cyl. walls are scrached a bit, bearings on 1-3 rods are most likely bad.

I don't wish upon my worst enemies to go through the same troubles.
 
Fellas I found a block!

Here is the only problem - the timing belt snapped on that motor at a stop sign the dude wants to get rid of it.

Can I reuse just the bottom end ( valves are probably bent to hell and pistons are a damaged a bit) just slap on new head, timing belt, keep pistons as is (maybe it will lower compression).

My question is - How damaged can the pistons be when the timing belt snapped at a stop sign??????????????????? And is it possible to reuse block without changing pistons??????
 
Last edited:
Fellas I found a block!

Here is the only problem - the timing belt snapped on that motor at a stop sign the dude wants to get rid of it.

Can I reuse just the bottom end ( valves are probably bent to hell and pistons are a damaged a bit) just slap on new head, timing belt, keep pistons as is (maybe it will lower compression).

My question is - How damaged can the pistons be when the timing belt snapped at a stop sign??????????????????? And is it possible to reuse block without changing pistons??????


snatch off the head, check the pistions. no missing chunks=throw on new head and roll out
 
Yeah as long as the pistons look okay the block should be fine.. the head is the weak point when the t-belt brakes. Most of the time the pistons just beat the crap out of the valves. Considering he broke it sitting at a stop chances are the block will be ok.
 
Back
Top