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Wrong valve lash?

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by kseries isboss, Oct 4, 2009.

  1. kseries isboss

    kseries isboss New Member

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    Alright so i'm curious, I have an ls vtec with BC stage 1 cams, ferrera oversized valves, supertech valve train, and b16 pistons. It's running not to it's full potential for sure. Also it has a misfire. On top of that I pulled plugs and found oil all over them. So my first thought is that the valve seals are leaking. Then I asked myself why would brand new valve seals go bad? I haven't actually ripped the head apart and seen the valve seals myself but it's my diag for now. I think the valve lash could be set wrong because that would cause the seals to go bad, the misfire, and the recent tapping that has occured. Would I have needed to set different valve lash from manufacturer spec because of the oversized valves?
     
  2. kseries isboss

    kseries isboss New Member

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    Also thank you for any advice ahead of time.
     
  3. INJEN78

    INJEN78 HS LEGEND

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    dont think so..reset the valve lash...did you put the new seals in or were you told it was done?
     
  4. kseries isboss

    kseries isboss New Member

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    i was told it was done at a machine shop. I picked this up as a DD and didn't do any of the work myself but I'm going to reset the valve lash tommorow and check the valve seals when I get back from college on friday
     
  5. efhondakid

    efhondakid My name is Byron. VIP

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    Wrong lash will cause ticking (too loose) and a loss in power (too tight) from the valves not seating completly but has nothing to do with oil on the plugs.
     
  6. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    Is the oil consistent across all four cylinders?

    Also, the tapping noise you are hearing may not only be caused by loose adjustments. Differences in adjustment across the cylinder head will cause some to chatter. I've done several adjustments on my B18B1 (which has BC cams and valvetrain) and I've found the best way to get it adjusted right is to turn the crank until the top of the cam lobe is pointed slightly forward (our engines do sit tilted forward slightly) and adjust the valves using the tightest manufacturer recommended setting and make sure that the feeler gauge passes through with decent resistance (meaning you might have to put a second hand in there to get it through). Make sure it does this across all cylinders, and you should have no problems.

    As of right now, it sounds like you could have your adjustment too tight, causing the valves to stick open for too long. How is the car running? Sluggish?
     
  7. 78civic

    78civic Junior Member

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    Going out on a limb here.. I'd do a compression check first off. (just a gut feeling that "IF" there are ferrara valves in there, "IF" they are oversized, were the seats plunge cut or opened up accordingly??) Wouldn't that be a pisser! Just having the first.010-.020 of the valve seating?

    Check the timing marks on the cam gears.. Are they aligned correct?
    Adjustable ones?

    When you pull the spark plug wires from the head, twist and pull.. Is the bottom covered in oil? Soak it up with rags/paper towels before removing plugs. (if so, the little o-ring between the valve cover/vtec valve assy isn't seated properly causing the oil to drain into the plug area. And oil IS a conductor of electricity too..)

    Like Matt said, call B/C and get the exact lash.

    I wonder if the OIL "0" rings/restrictors were re-installed before the head went back on, flooding the valve seal areas in the head and when the piston goes down, excess oil near the seals gets sucked down the valve stems.
    Oil light ever flicker on when running but it's at level when not?
    You may pull the valve assy top and check the little o-rings. If you're going to re-adjust the valves anyway, you may as well.

    Just my .02

    E
     
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