y8 im/throttle body on y7 iacv issue

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daveholiday

Do work
Hey guys, been a while. Long story short, I bought a 2000 ek, d16y7. Yesterday I swapped over to the y8 intake manifold and throttle body. Lucky for me, I didn't do as much research as I should have obviously, and I haven't found anything that directly answers my specific problem. Iac plug on the y7 harness is 3 pin, iacv on y8 throttle body is 2 pin. Running a p2e, (I think, my Honda knowledge is getting rusty. Factory dx ecu.)
 
So I swapped throttle bodies, I swapped the y7 to the y8 intake manifold, I had to swap throttle cable brackets and springs though, so y8 cable bracket and spring on y7 throttle body on y8 intake manifold. Now I'm getting all sorts of shit, and I'm still not holding a constant idle. Any ideas?
 
maybe IACV needs to be bled, or the idle air screw on top of the TB needs to be turned a little bit... just an idea, also any lines not were they should be
 
Car has a bouncing idle. No tach, so I'd have to assume bouncing between 600 and 1500 rpm's. IACV has been bled twice at my shop today, still nothing. I left the IACV on the back of the Y8 IM, to act as a block off since I'm using the Y7 one, being that I just swapped TB's and throttle springs/brackets. Inside the Y7 TB, which is on the car, there are two holes. One on the top, one on the bottom. Both have a vacuum. Plug the top, nothing happens. Plug the bottom, car idles normal. Currently throwing a P0113(Intake Air Temperature Sensor High Voltage) and a P0505 (IAC System Malfunction).
 
Typically in d and b series IACV's......there are two types. Wide bolt pattern and narrow bolt pattern

I suggest you get the right IACV for your IM. It is the main source of this bouncing idle.

Do not just start turning the idle adjust screw. It will do nothing b/c the ECU will adapt and go back to where it was. There are steps needed to adjust the idle
 
This swap has been done the way I did it with no problems, but nobody anywhere else can help me with my problem either. 99 5spd y8 IM, with the 3 pin IACV mounted to the back. That was left on to block the holes. Mated to that is my 00 y7 TB, the same one that was just on my car, that I had no problems with. I switched the throttle spring and rotor from the y8 TB to my y7 TB. I used the y7 TB because it has the 3 pin IACV mounted on it, which I was also just using. I cleaned everything while it was off. I replaced all my vacuum and coolant lines that had anything to do with the swap. I plugged the cruise control nipple on the back of the IM.
 
Well.....I guess I'm wondering why you put a VTEC IM on it? Not saying its pointless but I know the benefit isnt much.
 
Honestly, I thought it would give me a small bump, and I got it for a steal off a good friend, it's so clean it almost looks hot tanked. I just had no idea I was going to run into a thousand issues.
 
I think you bought yourself a problem with this intake manifold and the non VTEC ECU. This is strange territory to me.
 
Can you drive the car with the bottom line plugged? ect ect... I know it does not fix your problem, but for now, if it idles normal and drives fine, I would just keep it plugged till you come up with an answer.
 
No, its an odd shaped hole inside the TB, maybe if it were perfectly round I would be able to plug it but not this one.
 
After much more deep thought the only thing that I can possibly think of is that my iacv is dirty, it's pretty much the only thing I haven't tried. Couple other guys on d series had similar problems, and that was the solution, although while I had the throttle body off, I did use some foaming throttle body cleaner and once that broke everything loose, sprayed the entire thing down with carb cleaner and electrical parts cleaner in the sensor plugs.
 
Figured out my problem. I was using a y8 tb gasket instead of the y7. There is a port on the iacv inside the tb that wasn't covered correctly due to the y8 gasket being slightly different. I'll upload pics later. Car has a solid idle and is where it should be now.
 
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