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Y8 intake manifold question

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by jeffsciv23, Oct 8, 2003.

  1. jeffsciv23

    jeffsciv23 Senior Member

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    alright i swapped out my auto tranny a few months ago but can't use the manual ecu because i get a IACV code, i guess it's differant on the auto and manuals. would i be able to fix this by getting a manual Y8 IM and putting it on? and would i have to change the wiring harness?
    it's a 99 EX so do i have to get a OBDIIb IM or are they all the same?
    hope you guys can help, you usually can.
    thanks
     
  2. sabi670

    sabi670 Member

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    you can use the y8 5spd manifold.

    The IACV on the y8 manifold for 5spd is a 2 pin connector, on the auto it's a 3 pin. you just have to switch the blu/blk wire on the ecu connector from A14 to A12 (its the one next to the orange wire. the orange wire is A13, so just move the blue/blk wire next to it to the other side of the orange wire). the auto IACV connector wont fit on the 5spd connector, but you can buy the sensor connector from your honda dealer or just run the pins from your auto connector to the 5sp IACV connector like i did. its not too difficult, so good luck. hope it works out for you. lemme know if you need any more info.

    wanna sell your auto manifold?
     
  3. jeffsciv23

    jeffsciv23 Senior Member

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    do i have to change the manifold or can i just change the sensor?

    i might want to sell it... ;)
     
  4. sabi670

    sabi670 Member

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    jeffsciv23

    got your pm. i tried using an auto manifold/sensor and repinned it for the manual ecu, but wasnt able to get to idle right. im not sure if it was just a bad IACV ( i was having idle problems before i swapped it in) or if it just wont work. i know the the auto y8 and all y7 IACVs are a rotary type valve (the signal sent to the ecu depends on how far open the valve rotates) were the manual y8 IACV is a push-pull/plunger type IACV (signal to ecu depends on how much the valve is opened). you COULD try wiring the ecu pins to see if itll work in your application.

    if you look at your ecu harness, youll see some gray connectors and a blue one. the largest of the gray connectors is set A (it should have the most wires connected to it). if you unscrew your ecu (two 10mm screws) youll be able to unplug the connector by depressing the tab on the top while pulling the connector out away from the ecu. look at the connector from the wire side (the side that the wires go into the connector). the top row of wires (there are 3 rows) is A1,A2,A3 ....etc. from left to right. the first wire on the second row should be orange, the space to its left should be empty. the orange wire is A13 (the empty space is A12). to the right of the orange wire in A14 should be a blue/blk wire. you need to move that blue/blk wire to A12. to take out the wire, first disconnect the battery. go back to the connector. you should see a white bar across the top portion of the connector( this is the pin lock to ensure the pins arent accidentally pulled out). take a screwdriver and use it to push up on the white slots on the underside of the connector, dont try to force out completely, it only goes up a little bit (1/4 inch or so). then take a pin-prick ( :D ) and release the pin from the side that goes into the ecu (not the side that the wires go into). i just used a stiff metal paper clip. (use a flashlight to shine into the connector. you should see a small metal "pin" under a small plastic retainer. slide the paper clip between the pin & retainer while pulling on the wire from the other side.be sure not push the pin lock back in or the pin wont come out. it MUST be slightly raised from the gray portion of the connector.) take that blue/blk wire and put it into A12, then push the white pin lock back in. plug the connector back into the ecu and screw the ecu back in.

    go back under the hood and next to your battery there is a black plastic cover (those r your under hood fuses). pull out the second fuse in the row closest to the winshield to reset the ecu (to get rid of any check engine light and any trouble codes you may have had). youll be looking for a red fuse that says 7.5 on top. leave it out for at least 10-20 seconds, then put it back in, replace the fuse-box cover. reconnect your battery and restart your car without stepping on the throttle. be sure to leave everything off (fan, radio, lights etc.). itll run rough at first while the computer attempts to find a proper idle speed. if all goes well, your computer will find a proper idle setting and youll be set to go. if not, well theres always used manual manifolds..........

    sorry about the length. i tried to explain it as thouroughly as i could. if you have a factory service manual, itll explain everything you need to do and will have illustrations as well. if you dont have one yet, get one. best $90 or so youll spend for your car. if you dont understand what needs to be done still, than reread my instructions carefully and send me any questions you may have. or you could get someone to help you...... good luck....
     
  5. sabi670

    sabi670 Member

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    sorry, the instructions above are to be able to use the auto manifold/IACV sensor on the manual ecu.

    if it doesnt work, then the auto IACV and manual IACVs might send different signal values to the ecu and so you wouldnt be able to use the auto IACV on the manual ecu. if thats the case, then you might need to get a manual manifold and sell me your auto manifold :roll:
     
  6. jeffsciv23

    jeffsciv23 Senior Member

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    thanks for the info and very detailed post. i will try that after school tomorrow. if it doesn't work i will have to invest in a manual IM and just might send my old one your way for a fare amount ;)
     
  7. jeffsciv23

    jeffsciv23 Senior Member

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    my car is a 99 (OBD2b), so the question is would a manifold off of a 96 (OBD2a) work or does it not matter? should i get a whole new manual wireing harness and does it have to be the same OBD?
     
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