Y8 - Wont Start / Axle Install Problem

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

Import R

Senior Member
I have 2 problems that I just can't seem to shake. Looking to see if anyone might be able to help beyond what I've read from other posts on the same topics.

1) Car turns over, but won't start. The car has sat for over 2 years. I've checked and cleaned the 3 grounds - Valve cover to driver headlight, trans to right fender, & thermostat housing. All were wire brushed to bare metal and tightened down securely. I'm at work at the moment and haven't had a chance to pull plugs and test for spark. If there is no spark, it means the coil in the distributor is bad? The only thing not hooked up at the moment is a belt for the alternator. I'm getting that on the way home tonight (was broke and couldn't buy the belt till i got paid). But I don't think the lack of a belt would cause the motor to not start.

2) I'm having a bitch of a time installing the axles into the tranny. I can get the splines in most of the way, but it's about the last 1-2 inches that I can't seem to knock in. I have the tranny in gear so the axles dont spin. I can't say I'm 100% sure the splines are lined up... but I can't turn the axles at all once they get into the tranny a fair amount. And yes, I'm certain they are the correct axles. I don't recall axle installs to be this much of a pain. The trans did sit out in the weather for the last 2 years... would the have anything to do at all with the axles seizing up and not seating? I lubed both the axles and inner trans splines with assembly lube. I can sit there and beat the hell out of the other side of the axle and it still won't get it to seat. And the ring on the trans side spline isn't jacked up at all. Any thoughts on what I could try that I might not have thought of?

I can grab pics of anything when I get home if that will help. I appreciate you taking the time to read all the above crap and offer any suggestions. Thanks
 
1.check for spark then we will go from there

2. put the axle nut on upside down screw it on enough so you dont mess the threads up then hit it with a hammer it should go in.
 
If it has been setting that long, you might want to change spark plugs also?

Plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor.... all new. Just got done with dinner. gonna check for spark shortly.
 
have you consider the possibility that your starting problem might be the old gas in the tank, fuel pump, lines, fuel filter. Replace the fuel filter, use a compressed air tank to clean out the fuel lines, disconnect all the two lines from the pump and the lines from the fuel filter and spray all that shit out. Drain the fuel tank and spray that out too.


as far as the axles goes keep working on them, dont hit the end of them though you can mess your axle up that way. take it out of gear and keep forcing it in and out, it will seat eventually
My votes on a fuel issue, thats to long to sit with gas in it. Here is an easy way to tell, take off the intake from the throttle body and spray some ether in there and try to start it, if it starts your problems the fuel system
 
WE HAVE SPARK!

I thought about fuel. The needle was on E, and I filled it up to about half. I also replaced the fuel filter, but did not think about clearing out the lines. Was gonng pull out the rear seat and have a look at the fuel pump next. I have no doubt that the sock on the pump is all gum'd up. Any suggestions on cleaning that off? Or just go get a new sock?

On the axles.... they just anger me. But I'll keep trying them.
 
well you could try cleaning off by sticking it in a can of gas and swishing it arround, but the filters are pretty inexpensive so I would just replace it
 
Werd. I'll try and clear out the fuel system and give it another shot at cranking tonight when I get back from work. Thanks so much for all the suggestions so far. Will post up again after getting home.
 
Replaced the fuel filter. Stuck my air compressor to the line and cleared it all the way out.. from the pump to filter, and from the fuel rail back to the tank...

still not firing.

[x] Check for spark
[x] Check fuel system

[ ] HELP?


on a side note.. still working on knocking the hell out of the axles... still not seating. :( i wanna set my car on fire.
 
Checked out the fuel tank today.

Minimal sedaments in the tank. Fuel pump sock imacculate... no crusted sedament whatsoever!! Topped off the fuel to make sure any of the bad stuff is gone. Still won't start.

2 questions now:

1) How do i check the injectors to make sure they aren't all gummed up?

2) In reference to the attached pic:
The sensor piggybacked to the fuel rail... it has a vaccum hose running to it from the manifold... where the arrow points, does it connect up to the can in the other pic? or am I routing it incorrectly? if so, where does it go? and what should plug up there instead?

FuelRail1.jpg


EvapCan.jpg
 
yes that line is correct. what fuel pressure reg do you have on in that pic and is it adjustable?
Are you entirely sure the issue is fuel?
here is a way to tell if its a fuel issue. Get a can of ether and take the intake off, get a buddy to start the car while you spray ether in the throttle body. if the car starts then you have a fuel issue.
 
It's just a B&M FPR. and yes it's adjustable.

Not overly certain it's a fuel issue to be honest.

The grounds are all clean and solid.
I checked spark.
Have new plugs, wires, distributor cap, & rotor.
Timing belt marks are spot on.
Fuel tank is pretty clean, fuel pump sock looks good as well.
new fuel filter, and flushed all the fuel lines.


Never heard of the ether idea. Can i just get a can of that at the auto store? Is it the same as carb cleaner?
 
no its not the same as carb cleaner, Ether is used alot to start diesel motors when its cold out but it works the same with gas motors, The ether is very flammable so no smoking when doing this. Yes I believe you can even get cans of it at walmart.
 
ether is a bad idea. good way to ether lock it. better idea is to put some fuel in a spray bottle and use that to spray int the intake manifold instead, no risk or ether lock that way.
 
Tried the ether... BINGO!

I got it to fire for a moment.. but then it crapped out.

After a few times of trying the ether, I got it to stay running as long as I was on the gas pedal a bit. I let it come up to temp holding it at about 1k on the tach. But the moment I let my foot off the gas it died out.

I got 2 codes... 71 & 73. Both are misfires... cylinder 1, cylinder 3.

That just mean I need to recheck the gap on the plugs? Cause I'm pretty certain I got them wired up right on the dizzy. Any thoughts?
 
Just an update....

Thank you to all who posted to try and help.

I fiddled with it a bit today after work and got the car to stay running. Had a few goes at it with starting it with the ether... but finally kept it up and running around 2k RPMs for about 5 minutes to bring it up to temp. Slowly started letting off the accelerator dropping the RPMs slowly. It finally smoothed out after about 20 minuntes of running.

I don't have to keep my foot on the pedal, and it goes up the power band very smoothly now. Guess it just needed a little breaking in to smooth out all the problems.

Thank you all sooo very much..... now if I could just get those damn axles in. :(
 
Back
Top