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ZC DOHC 1991 Hatchback Transplant - Epilog

Discussion in 'Auto Multi-Media' started by Dual-500, Mar 21, 2011.

  1. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    THE MODERATORS SET THIS THREAD UP WITH FULL TIME EDIT CAPABILITY FOR THE FIRST 7 POSTS. INTENT WAS TO SHOW THE BULK OF THE PROJECT ON PAGE 1 SO ANYONE INTERESTED WON'T HAVE TO PAGE THROUGH HUNDREDS OF POSTS TO SEE IT. THE FIRST SEVEN SECTIONS (POSTS) ARE EDITED AS THE PROJECT PROGRESSES WITH ADDITIONAL PICTURES & NARRATIVE.
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    THANKS TO:
    Automotive Machine and Supply
    "Import Car Parts & Machine Shop"
    Fort Worth, Texas 76107

    These guys are easy to work with, have fair with pricing, do great work, and have the best customer service around.
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    I've enjoyed reading Brad's (Glassheadlights) CRX thread, (Wikedeye, CAFROG, dc4dude and several others too) so I though it would be good to start one for my restoration/build.

    These first posts from time to time with as much information I can on chassis, engine and changes made to each - overall background, history and progress.

    Intent is to take the Grocery Getter to a Stage 1 HotRod - Put a little more Spring in it's Step.

    Target car is a 1991 Civic Si and is my Daily Driver. Purchased in September 2002 with 98,000 miles - now has 167,000 miles.

    Existing Performance Enhancements

    DC Sports cold air
    K&N Air filter
    KYB struts ( stock springs and ride height)
    Energy Suspension Polyurethane bushings thoughout
    DNA Motorsports 4-2-1 stainless steel header
    OBX catback 2 1/2" stainless exhaust
    15x7 aluminum wheels
    Nitto 195/50-15 tires
    Front and rear shock tower braces

    General maintenance and/or upgrades

    Wheel bearings, hubs
    Full brake system rebuild - rear shoes, slave cylinders, front pads, aftermarket front rotors, master cylinder, flex lines
    Upper and lower ball joints
    Transmission rebuild 2009
    Optima battery
    Aluminum dual core radiator (not yet installed)
    Pioneer head unit, dual 12" subs, 420w amp, Alpine parametric eq, Pioneer 6.5" front speakers


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    Last edited: Jul 29, 2012
  2. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    ENGINE CHOICE IS ZC DOHC 4th GENERATION 1992-1995 non-VTEC OBD1:

    Objective is a driveable N/A ~150 hp power plant (SAE @ crankshaft) that is close to compatible with stock D16A6 in terms of; original transmission, exhaust system, etc.

    I purchased it on eBay from JDM Engine Zone for $575 + $220 shipping. Engine came as long block, less distributor and flywheel. Machine shop found me a used flywheel for $30.00.

    I had engine shipped directly to the machine shop. Upon tear down they said it was in real good condition. No need for boring. As such, stock pistons will be re-used.

    Engine build specifications:

    Full Blue Print
    Raise compression ratio to 10:1 - cc combustion chambers & deck/pistons
    Full balance
    Port Match head (intake and exhaust ports)
    Port Match intake manifold and Throttle Body
    Lighten flywheel to 12 lbs
    Replace stock 55mm throttle body with 61mm Gude
    Blueprint port and polish oil pump

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    Engine pictured on shipping pallet. Layers of plastic wrap have been removed before pics. It took a couple of hits along the way - side of oil pan dented, O2 sensor wasted, TPS also smashed. Oil pan will be straightened when I sand blast and repaint. Sensors would have been replaced anyway - no loss there. Aside from sensor damage, it was in good enough shape to drop in and drive - kudos to JDM Engine Zone.

    Shop is completely going through the engine - I want a fresh bullet with the performance modifications noted above. Going to upgrade electronics to OBD1 for scan tool compatibility which will aid in future maintenance.

    Block only needed ridge ream and hone job in the cylinders - saved me the $ of boring and new pistons. Getting rings, seals, gaskets, new water pump, thermostat, new oil pump, new OBD1 distributor, rebuilt starter. Temp and fan sensors will be taken from the D16A6 as they are less than 1 year old.

    Head gets full rebuild, stems and guides mic'd and replaced if needed. 3 Angle valve job, new seals, etc. I will probably run the injectors off of the stock D16A6 and use existing wiring harness and resistor box. I replaced the injectors less than a year ago - so, they are pretty new.

    Flywheel will be lightened to 12 lbs and mated to a Stage 1 clutch and pressure plate.

    EDIT 4-12-2011:

    Got a good deal on the engine stand from Northern Tool - normally $119, on sale for $109 and they let me use a $20 mail coupon on it so it totalled out to $89.00 plus tax. It will go up for sale when build is completed.

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    Picked up engine parts from machine shop last Saturday:

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    Everything looks real nice - hopefully it will all fit together well:

    Lots of parts everywhere - some need cleanup, some cleanup and paint and some will be shitcanned:

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    THANKS TO:
    Automotive Machine and Supply
    Import Car Parts & Machine Shop
    Fort Worth, Texas 76107
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2014
  3. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    ENGINE BUILD PICTURES:

    UPDATE 6/7/2011

    Rework of the adjustable cam pulleys to fit the ZC required some custom washers due to the way the aftermarket pulleys are made. The camshaft protruded into a recessed part on the front of the pulleys which the OEM retaining washers bottomed out against. So, my pal was here and cranked out a pair on the lathe.

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    I re-used the DNA Motorsports header that was on the D16A6. It's a "Universal Type" mount flange that fits several engines - as such, the mounting holes are oversize. The head was port matched to the intake manifold and to the exhaust manifold metal gasket. To ensure header was properly aligned to the exhaust ports I first confirmed the header matched up with the exhaust gasket, then made 4 businngs that fit over the exhaust manifold studs and fit the holes in the header. Also, there was some interference between the header flange and block - made worse by the head being milled. So, on the left and right ends a bit of clearance grinding was necessary to allow the header to fit low enough to properly align with exhaust ports and exhaust manifold gasket.

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    SHOWING LOCATIONS OF STEEL BUSHINGS
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    TWO OF THE FOUR BUSHINGS PICTURED
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    Last edited: Dec 17, 2011
  4. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    THE TEARDOWN:

    First of all, for a project of this magnitude I recommend some qualified help. That way, I can be in the shop while final disconnects are made to the old engine as well as some dandy repair fabrication work and clean engine bay with pressure washer and old engine after it was removed so the parts harvest (transmission) won't be on some greasy, nasty POS.

    Casey, my Security Field Marshall & Chief Hot Dog Gobbler + Senior Technical Consultant and Minister of Moral Support. (I have lots of pictures of Casey)

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    And, if you can, hustle a buddy or two for some help (it took Ribeyes and lots of Chardonnay in this case - well worth the price :)

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    Engine is out - took lot's of digital pictures of hoses and wiring for conections and routing information.

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    Last edited: Jun 10, 2011
  5. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    ROLLING CHASSIS PREPARATIONS:

    I've decided when I put the new motor in it it's going in with stock wiring and ECU. The only thing I'll do the change out the distributor wiring to interface the OBD1 dizzy with the car wiring. I'll start and run the motor and THEN do the ECU and wiring work for the OBD1 4-wire O2 sensor. No need to do all that work making a ton of changes and have it not start. I"m going to try and keep this simple and eliminate as much potential for frustration as possible. Famous last words . we'll see how that works!

    Rear engine mount was fun to remove and install the new Drop Engineering mount:

    It necessitated dropping the rear chassis crossmember - which meant disconnecting the steering shaft from the steering rack at the firewall. By the time we got to this point I was in no mood for bullshit, so instead of crawling and floundering around under the dash for untold minutes/hours to loosen the steering u-joint, I broke out the trusty Husky pneumatic cutoff/grinder and sliced a hold in the firewall at the steering shaft penetration point.

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    The installed polyurethane exhaust hangers. I did the aft 3 stations - the two behind the catylytic converter are in good shape, so I left them alone for now.

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    Doulbed up here on the hangers as the 2.5" piping is heavier than the stock exhaust system and I don't have any experience with the polyurethane hangers. They are real solid and should be much stronger than comparable aftermarket or OEM neoprene type.

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    Wiring was tackled next - here is the hardware used for the rework. I used a 100w soldering gun on the car harness to sweat solder all the barrel type crimp connectors. A 100w gun works, 170w gun would have been better and faster. Pictured below are most of the supplies needed/used for the wiring work.

    For clamping I opted to go with aircraft style clamps and not use any of the original OEM stuff. Found a great price online on them from a place called Marsh Fasteners:

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    I ordered 4 each from 1/4" to 1 1/4" in 1/16" increments - total cost including shipping was $23.59. There will be more than enough clamps to do all the wiring under the hood.

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    If you're going to be doing harness work use good tape. Scotch 33+ is good stuff. There may be other brands out there that work, I don't know. I do know there are many brnads out there that DON'T (Brittle, won't stick to itself, not pliable, etc.) work very well- so I stick with what I know works and works well. The GB heat shrink tubing is also good stuff.

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    The first thing I did was to change the car harness to mate with the OBD1 distributor. I cut the connectors off of the partial engine harness that came with the ZC. Removed the center sections from standard crimp on type butt connectors. Stripped, tinned the wires on the ZC connectors then slid the connector barrels on and crimped them. The center barrels were pushed out of the plastic connector body using a small 4-40 screw of suitable length with the end of the connector over the end of a T nut large enough for the barrel to slide through.

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    Then prepped the wiring harness in the car. Cut off old connectors and stripped ends, then tinned with soldering gun. Notice red heat shrink tubing slid over the wires and against the connector. All conections were crimped to make the mechanical connection, then soldered to ensure a good electrical connection is made. Lastly, the heat shring tubing was slid over the splices and locked in place using a heat gun.

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    Here's what they looked like after all connections were crimped on, sweat soldered and the heat shrink tubing slid into place and heated.

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    While doing wiring modifications, I opted for some cleanup also. The terminal on the starter is awful close to the case and could be bent and make contact. Direct, unfused run from battery - if that happened it could be very bad. So, I wrapped the crimp on section of the terminal with some good quality 3M electrical tape.

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    Then, since the rubber cover was pretty old and not as pliable as it could be, I filled it with silicon RTV and pushed it on over the stud. Notice on the right the red heat shrink tubing over the distributor connector. After initial engine run is performed, they will be bundled in convoluted tubing and wrapped with electrical tape to match the rest of the wiring harness.

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    Pictured bracket for harness clamp mounts to starter - Starter was installed onto engine before engine was installed into the bay. Bolts holding starter motor to the starter assembly are too long to be removed one at a time with starter installed in final position as the top one that holds the bracket is so long it hits the motor mount support on the chassis. So, I pulled the lower bolt too and pulled the motor off the starter assembly. Not a recommended procedure - fortunately, I've had a few motors apart over the years and was able to pull it off. The starter is a 4 pole motor, with 4 brushes on the commutator. That was the fun part to reassemble, as I pulled the housing off the armature the first go and brushed sprung off of the commutator - that was the instant the fun began. Don't rebuild a starter with it installed on the engine!

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    Next thing I did is add a jumper wire from the alternator to the battery. The alternator has a 160 amp rating and a jumper wire came along with it along with instructions to run it from the alternator to the positive terminal of the battery. This jumper wire is used in conjunction with the engine wiring harness to handle the extra output of the larger alternator. 160 amps could smoke the stock wiriing. While doing cleanup on the harness, I piggy backed the wire to run along with the engine harness from alternator to battery.

    The rubber cover at the alternator was not large enough for both wires - so, I again turned to the harness that came with the ZC. The rubber boot (right side) is large enough for both wires.

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    Wire added shown at the battery end.

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    Here it is at the alternator end along with the larger rubber boot from the ZC harness. Now both wires will carry the current from the 160 amp alternator.

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    A quick word on Honda wiring. The engine harness on this 20+ year old car looked pretty tattered. A few of the connectors were broken from abuse. I pulled ALL the old tape wrap off of it. Moved a few breakouts around to match sensor locatios on the ZC. What I found underneath the tattered and fraying tape was wire in excellent condition. After the broked/damaged connectors were changed and the thing was re-dressed wtih some quality electrical tape it is in EXCELLENT condition.

    Kudos to Mr. Honda and Honda motors corporation for putting quality products in their cars. RIP Mr. Honda and thank you.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2011
  6. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    INSTALLING THE NEW BULLET:

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    The driver side engine mount took some tweaking. Weld on reinforcement needed just a touch of grinding so spacer would seat flat on the mount at the aft stud position as pictured. I did it in place with a dremel tool and reinforced cutoff wheel. Also, the mount thickness at the interface point with engine mount is thinner that the OEM that has spacers in it as I recall. So, I made a small steel spacer to fit on it so the bolt will correctly tighten. See below pictures.

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    There is a small step machined in the spacer as the smooth part of the stud at the mount is a bit larger than the threaded section.

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    Shows where the weld was ground down so the spacer fits flat against the Drop Engineering mount.

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    The fuel rail for the ZC has a slightly different interface at the banjo fitting on the fuel line. I used the ZC intake manifold and the fuel rail from the D16A6 will not fit. So, another adapter washer was needed. I made it with a step in it that fits inside the banjo fitting at the fuel rail.

    ZC banjo fuel fitting is on the right, the D16A6 fuel line from the car is pictured on the left. The ZC line was cut when they pulled the engine so all I have is the end that fits the ZC fuel rail.

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    Finished up under car work saturday 6/11/2011. Tranny shift linkage and torque rod, axels plugged into tranny and front suspension re-assembled, exhaust system re-connected, rear exhaust system hangers changed to polyurethane (see pictures).

    Oil in engine so I don't forget, oil in tranny. After making a couple of messes over the years filling tranny using a plastic tube connected to a funnel, I finally fired up the torch and made a fill adaptor for doing the job - works great. Made from some scrap 1/2" copper tubing a 90 degree elbow, one straight coupling and a $3 plastic funnel.

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    6/13/2011 - here's what it looks like in the car with painted valve cover installed: (please notice complete and total lack of overspray) :)

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    I put the wiring pictures in the chassis prep section, but connecting the alternator will go here in the install section. The piggy backed main power leads are connected and fit nicely on the alternator together. The ZC rubber boot covers them both nicely.

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    The control & exciter wires are in the green connector. Notice the factory grease is dried out.

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    So, a coating of fresh white grease was applied to the connector, worked into the contact recesses and around the outside and O-ring. The purpose of the white grease is to prevent corrosion and subsequent poor electrical connection. It displaces water before it can get inside the connection. Use this technique on turn signal lamps, marker lamps and all tail lights that are subject to water. I use a very thin coat on the head lamp connections also.

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    Last edited: Jun 14, 2011
  7. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    UPGRADED NEW PARTS, MODIFIED PARTS, CHANGES FROM STOCK OR OEM:

    Alternator - 160 amp rated. Pictured aside the OEM that came with the engine. I've used cheapo's over the years that have lifetime warranty from national brand auto parts stores. Read on forums they are junk - they are. I've gone through 3 or 4 in the past few years. Main reason is probably the increased electircal load from the stereo - it has a AudioBahn 420w amp on the dual 12" subs. The new one came with a jumper wire that is supposed to go directly to battery positive terminal. When I install the ZC I'll be sure the grounding on the engine block is in GOOD shape. Running an unfused wire directly between alternator and battery doesn't sound like a smoking hot idea. The purpose of the extra wire is obviously to protect the car harness from the additional output of the alternator, so I'll figure out how to fuse it and will definitely install the jumper as I don't want to smoke the wiring with the 160 amp alternator.

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    The new engine mounts arrived today. Drop Engineering stainless steel mounts. I went with steel and not aluminum in case a bolt ever comes loose - the steel mounts will survive better. A loose aluminum mount will get thrashed. Nothing against billet mounts mind you. Another reason I went with steel mounts is that I got a smokin' deal on this set on eBay for $100 + $30 shipping - total $130.00. I could barely get a set of OEM for that. The Drop Engineering mounts look nice and are new. With the increased torque and horsepower, plus stage 1 clutch and pressure plate I figured beefing up the motor mounts was a good idea - the others are original OEM and 20+ years old and in need of replacement anyway.

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    The Drop Engineering engine mounts are a 3-mount set (rear, left and right) with no front transmission/engine mount in the set and none available from Drop Engineering. The original mounts in the car were 20-+ years old and looked like it. So, I ordered up a new OEM front transmission/engine from the Honda dealer and an Energy Suspension Polyurethane "Insert" kit. It consists of a pair of polyurethane inserts that go into to OEM mount to fill the voids and a couple of large washers to hold things thogether. Looks like they should work well - they fit perfectly - slipped right in.

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    For adjustable cam pulleys I opted for some eBay specials from dpt Motorsports that fit a B16 and numerous other Honda engines. They are close to the OEM DOHC ZC and actually have a better fit on the camshafts - a very snug tap on fit. They are a bit wider (~0.075 away from the head direction) and are offset away from the head about 0.075" more than the OEM. This means they stick out ~0.150" more than OEM pulleys. Well, they did anyway - don't any more.

    The pictures speak for themselves - I used a center punch to put my own index marks on them - they index to "0" and are perfectly aligned with the stock OEM pulleys - so, for $60.96 for the pair (includes shipping) and about 2 hours of shop time I have a nice set of adjustable cam timing pulleys.

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    Next to fit the Gude modified 61mm Throttle Body to the stock intake manifold. Stock is 55mm so it had to be bored out 6mm to properly fit the throttle body. I carefully clamped the intake manifold into a large vise. Next, the Gude throttle body was dissassembled and used as a marking template against the manifold. I slipped it on over the studs and scribed a line against the face of the intake manifold, then traced over it with a felt marker. Then I went to work with a Craftsman 1/2" cordless drill and a couple of good sanding drum arbors fitted with Aluminum Oxide sanding drums. The job was completed in less than 1 hour and did not require change out of the sanding drums. The larger drum is 2 3/8" OD as I recall and fit the oversize hole in the throttle body and subsequent hole in the manifold almost perfectly.

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    Matching job turned out nice - it's real close - got the cigar on this one! Speaking of cigar - think it's time for a Havana.

    While the car was on jack stands (answering a post on another thread) I took a look at the aftermarket exhaust hangers (replaced about 7 months ago) and they were pretty wasted so I ordered up a set of polyurethane hangers. (Thanks to E SolSi) They look pretty robust and should hold up much better than the junk installed now. These things are really stiff - should be a blast to install. Could end up modifying mounts on exhaust and chassis - shorten them up and maybe drill for retainer pins and washers. More to follow on this one.

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    The P06-A02 ECU modified with Winfab_ Tuning modified P29 map - Rev Lmiter set to 8k RPM & speed sensor disabled if used in auto tranny installation. I did the work myself on socketing the board and soldering in necessary components: 48 pin socket for IC3, J1, R54, IC4 & plugged IC3 into it's socket. To the particular ECU I had picked up for this build, I didn't have to remove any components. All components were added to bare places on the circuit board. I did have to clear solder from the PCB solder pads and holes as the holes were filled with solder on the board. I used a spring loaded vacum type solder remover and a Weller soldering station. Wasn't too difficult - seeing WTF I was doing was a challenge - eyes aren't what they used to be. But, have done lots of soldering and electronics kit building. Wouldn't recommened ECU modification for a first time soldering project.
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    DNA Motorsports 2 row core aluminum radiator:

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    The ECU installation mounting lug pattern is different on the chipped/socketed P06 ECU and the stock PM6 ECU. So, I cut the mounting lugs off of the frame of the P06 ECU and pop rivited a custom cut piece of 1/8" thick aluminum angle to the frame and drilled it to fit using the original ECU as the template.

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    Last edited: Dec 17, 2011
  8. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    THE RESULTS:

    Add ~$5k for a motor project, and another ~$5k over the past 5 years for numerous other upgrades, I have now dumped ~$10 grand into a car worth at the outside ~$5k. Not to mention hundreds of hours of time. Ain't gonna sell it any time soon. :)

    When researching engines for which one I looked at a number of factors: Cost of engine, cost of installation, (modifications required for install - axels, shift linkage, mounts, etc), performance, weight, reliability, longevity, and overall compatibility.Reading about the ZC it looked good - tranny was rebuilt 1 1/2 yrs ago and the motor more or less dropped right in. That's what I've read - a ZC will basically Drop In to replace a D16A6. Then, I've read it's only some wiring changes for the OBD1 92-95 4th gen DOHC ZC. Wiring for the Dizzy and the OBD1 O2 sensor. That's a lot of bullshit. There's much more required to properly interface a JDM DOHC ZC into a US domestic chassis. Not a super big deal - but, still they don't just Drop In. Anybody that says they do, hasn't ever done the work.Not running yet, troubleshooting ignition issue. One thing I've noticed for sure is the Comnpetition Clutch pressure plate takes mucho more pressure on the clutch pedal to release the pressure plate. It outta hook up well. No more clutch slip when leaning on it hard.

    EDIT 7/4/2011: Yep it's the 4th of July and time to roll this MOFER out for the test drive. Initial impressions driving it - much louder than the D16A6. Competition Clutch pressure plate is nice - takes quite a bit more force to depress the clutch pedal and it hooks up nice and solid. Took the car to car wash for wash and vacuum inside - got pretty dirty sitting up on jack stands for 5 weeks. Engine runs good, taking it easy on it for now. Seems a little limp, not sure if it's lean on the P06 ECU fuel map or the cam timing is off - feels like a little of both. Will check this weekend.

    Engine vibration is more noticeable now with the Drop Engineering rear and side mounts and the Energy Suspension front tranny mount insert and new OEM mount. The engine also runs a bit more solidly with 10:1 compression and new rings, 3 angle valve job, etc. It's fresh and a bit more stout than it's predecessor of 170,000 hard miles. MIrrors vibrate when it's idling and it's not a rough idle - just stout.

    The ZC is much louder than the D16A6 was with same exhaust system - potential.

    EDIT 7-8-2011: Installed the modified P29 mapped chipset today. HUGH difference. Fattened it up quite a bit - sounds and runs much better.

    UPDATE 7/18/2011: Clicked over 300 miles on it today. Haven't changed oil yet, do check it frequently - level hasn't moved and it's pristine clean looking - I'll probably do it this coming weekend. Radiator is here and looks real nice, will probably install that this weekend also. Have a new TPS sensor to install - it has a funny spot in the low end and I still haven't completely resolved the idle issue - thinking is the TPS may be the solution. Not throwing any CEL code for the TPS, but it's possibe it's staying within limits, but not accurately tracking. Whether it fixes it or not, the new one will stay on the engine. This one has socket head cap screws instead of phillips head screws that are on it now. An allen wrench will be much easier to loosen/tighten during calibration than the phillips screws are.

    It runs real good. It will walk away from it's former self. Pulls strong above 5k RPM all the way out. Sounds great.

    THANKS TO:
    Automotive Machine and Supply
    "Import Car Parts & Machine Shop"
    Fort Worth, Texas 76107
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2011
  9. Fernpatch

    Fernpatch Member

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    In for the read. should be cool to see it done.
     
  10. hosmer

    hosmer I made the millionth post VIP

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    I NEVER do this, but I never see anyone building a ZC so I feel the need to whore out some parts


    I have a brand new/never installed SET of JUN adjustable cam gears for a ZC...stupid rare in the states and cost me a pretty penny when I bought them 5 years ago. Still wrapped up, still in their boxes, only been out for pictures

    let me know if you're interested
     
  11. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    Thanks man. I'll put it all in here and make the thread as complete as I can. I've really enjoyed Brad's CRX build thread.
     
  12. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    Well ya could have done it on a PM meathead! JK. Yeah I'm interested bro.

    PM me some pics. Ah screw that - post me a pic on the thread so I can have a look - we'll negotiate on the PM side.

    I'm going to run adjustable pulleys on this motor - because I do like tweaking the cam timing.
     
  13. hosmer

    hosmer I made the millionth post VIP

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    hard to tell in the pics but they're like a gunmetal color...5 bolt = no slippage...and solid disc = no breakage
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2011
  14. Briansol

    Briansol Admins Admin VIP

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  15. Korax

    Korax New Member

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    In for the progress as well. ^^/
     
  16. jonboy330

    jonboy330 New Member

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    do what to sell any of your factory parts
     
  17. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    They will all go one way or another.

    Stock Radiator & fan
    Starter
    Alternator
    Full D16A6 Long Block (head replaced 1 year ago) less sensors
    Adjustable cam pulley x 2 (new will fit D16A6 and other SOHC)
    DC Sports stainless 4-2-1 header (maybe, not sure yet)
    O2 sensor
    OBD0 ECU
    Engine mounts
    Throttle body

    To be continued.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2011
  18. jonboy330

    jonboy330 New Member

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    ok i need a ecu and the header if you want u can call me 8504850414 if i dont answer leave a message or u text me texting is better for me thanks o yea that is damn good looking motor
     
  19. GlassHeadlights

    GlassHeadlights West West Yall

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    This thread is awesome ! I wish I could have done everything new like you man. The outcome is going to be sick for sure. :)
     
  20. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    You were the inspiration for this thread...... :cool:

    This project will probably total up close to $4000 when completed. EDIT 5/1/2011 Well the $4k barrier will be smashed to shit with the addition of the Hondata S300 and Dyno time. :)

    The money will be there for you someday - you already have have what many will never have - that being technical skills. That's what's important and it can't really be bought.

    Keep in mind, I've had this ride since Spetamber 2002 and it's been a Work In Progress since then. So, I saved up my Piggy Bank for this and have been planning it for 2-3 years. Last spring was a setback when a valve broke - I didn't have the $ for what I wanted at that time, so I put a rebuilt head (bandaid) on it. Bottom end is wasted and it still burns oil. The head got me through one more annual state inspection cycle last June. It took 4 or 5 attempts and a new cat to get it to pass. But, I got is signed off.

    That was a bit of a setback, but I kept on truckin anyway. Paid a charge card down and put the motor on my VISA. The machine work was paid for by my 2010 tax return money. The other parts I am cashing out. Will have money for electronics next month and the install will be done the week going into Memorial Day weekend.

    Machine shop work + some new parts - idler pulley, timing belt, water pump, clutch & pressure plate, gasket set, seals, bearings and so on was $1895.00. Engine cost $795.00 delivered.

    $795.00 Long Block (delivered)
    $2035.62 Machine Shop Labor & Misc Parts (gasket set, seals, Cometic Head gasket, Clutch Set, water pump, timing belt, pilot & throwout bearings, etc.)
    $65.00 Rebuilt starter
    $153.97 160 amp alternator
    $130.00 Drop Engineering Motor Mount set
    $85.00 Gude 61mm Throttle Body
    $129.95 TD-43 OBD1 Distributor
    $60.96 Adjustable Cam Pulleys
    $84.99 ECU 37820-P06-A02
    $47.99 DNA Motoring Fuel Pump
    $135.29 Spark Plug wire set & 4-wire OBD1 O2 Sensor
    $75.71 Oil, oil filter, anti-freeze, assembly lube, radiator hose
    $80.71 Lower Ball Joints (Parts & Machine Shop Labor)
    $76.17 New nuts and seals for valve cover (from dealer - got 4 spares also, total 12)
    $50.00 Valve Cover Nuts and Washers + Radiator Hose Clamps
    $55.63 OEM Front Engine/Tranny Mount (from dealer cuz I want the Energy Suspension inserts to fit correctly)
    $29.96 Energy Suspension inserts for front engine/tranny mount
    $27.99 Winfab Tuning modified P29 chipset for P06-A02 ECU
    $209.98 DNA Motorsports Dual Core Twin Fan Aluminum Radiator
    $60.00 OBD0 to OBD1 ECU Adapter Harness
    $4389.92 Total to date 7-8-2011
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2011
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