ZC DOHC 1991 Hatchback Transplant - Epilog

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MBs aren't bad. Can be a little heavy IIRC. But we sold the shit out of them at DTD.
 
Those new injectors.....they look like they don't go into the IM as much as the stock ZC's. Is it the picture and I'm seeing things or will that be a problem? Seems they need to go deeper into the IM :shrug2:
 
Also...love the transmission filler you made. I always make someone fill while I hold the plastic hose into the trans with 3-4 paper towels. Pain in the ass.

When you bored out the IM for Gude TB (Gude is super old school circa 1990's :thumbsup:) how was that process? I'm gonna (eventually) run a 70mm TB and thought I'd ask the difficulty level of the operation. My IM is $200 and I figure I'd weigh the options of DIY or machine shop. Hell....I already had to cut off a big chunk to make it work on my K20A (RBC IM is for a K20Z3 and top radiator inlet is much different between the two). Just curious how you made the line/guide for grinding?
 
Those new injectors.....they look like they don't go into the IM as much as the stock ZC's. Is it the picture and I'm seeing things or will that be a problem? Seems they need to go deeper into the IM :shrug2:
Actually, they appear to penetrate the IM runners further than stock. I don't foresee a problem with fuel atomization. But, they are adapted from a Ford installation. The rubber seals on the the bottom of the new injectors, where they interface with the IM are thinner than the OEM. They have anodized blue aluminum spacers that reside on the injector above the rubber seal/spacers. Overall length on the new injectors, with spacers could be shorter than the OEM - probably what you noticed. I assume full penetration into the IM and any "slack" at the top of the injector at the fuel rail interface. They are pictured. I haven't tried to fit them yet, I do anticipate some "Fit" work there. Perhaps custom spacers on the injectors themselves or change the spacers that go between the fuel rail and the intake manifold. I'll post up some pictures of the fit & installation of the new injectors when I do that work. Initial look doesn't appear to be a big deal to make them work correctly. But, it doesn't look like a "Plug and Play" situation, there will probably be some fit work required - to include custom machine work for adapter/spacers or some kind of bushings.
 
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MBs aren't bad. Can be a little heavy IIRC. But we sold the shit out of them at DTD.
They are on the heavy side picking up a wheel. I equate that to them also being pretty robust and strong wheels. Probably lighter than comparable size steel, and a bit heavier than the smaller OEM steel wheels. Maybe next set of struts will be another step up in damping. What's on it now works well with the KYB struts, these shouldn't be much different in terms of weight.
 
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Also...love the transmission filler you made. I always make someone fill while I hold the plastic hose into the trans with 3-4 paper towels. Pain in the ass.

When you bored out the IM for Gude TB (Gude is super old school circa 1990's :thumbsup:) how was that process? I'm gonna (eventually) run a 70mm TB and thought I'd ask the difficulty level of the operation. My IM is $200 and I figure I'd weigh the options of DIY or machine shop. Hell....I already had to cut off a big chunk to make it work on my K20A (RBC IM is for a K20Z3 and top radiator inlet is much different between the two). Just curious how you made the line/guide for grinding?
Yes, the Tranny Filler is a great tool. I got tired of the clusterphuk of filling the tranny with oil and in anticipation of another mess, finally made that up before filling the tranny after I did the swap.

I did the Intake/TB fit work Old School way with sanding drums - how we used to do port work. It's pictured in the middle of post #7. Fit the TB onto the manifold and marked it with a fine ink marker, then pulled the TB off and went to work with a couple of sanding drums, two sizes on a cordless drill. It worked out well and fits real nice, the transition is smooth.

Work was pretty easy, the sanding drums cut through the IM aluminum with ease. Took about an hour to do it.
 
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Cool....hour ain't bad. I think I'll try to tackle it. Just mount TB, open butterfly, trace and grind. But how does the butterfly open with a IM that is too small (in order to trace)?
 
Cool....hour ain't bad. I think I'll try to tackle it. Just mount TB, open butterfly, trace and grind. But how does the butterfly open with a IM that is too small (in order to trace)?
I pulled the butterfly and shaft out of the TB, mounted the TB up to the IM plenum, marked it up with a fine marker, pulled TB off, and got after it with the sanding drums. It's really no more than a simple port match job.
 
Here's a couple of more pictures of the fuel injectors. It's a piss poor fit, and there is so much difference in them, without fitting them up to the manifold and installing the fuel rail, I would guess them to be unuseable as they are. I'm thinking the simplest solution will be to machine up some custom spacers that fit between the intake manifold and the fuel rail, to lower the fuel rail farther onto the injectors to make up the slack.

D16A6 OEM injector on the left, OEM DOHC ZC injector on the right.

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New injector beside the D16A6 injector with top sections aligned, notice the difference at the bottom of the seal depth where it would go into the manifold.

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Looking at them more, I may just machine up some ring spacers that fit in the manifold to make them fit into the manifold correctly, that will also take care of the top where they plug into the fuel rail. I'll make that decision when I actually fit them to the intake manifold.
 
I'd go 215/45-16, but that's me.
That may be what I do. The speedo reads ~2 mph high at 35mph. The 205/45-16 circumfrerence should come pretty close in correcting the speedo problem. Probably closer than a 215/45-16 tire.
 
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Yup. 'Course, I want to put 255/40-17s on the CRX. :D :D :D :D :D
I did a little online research for 215/45-16's and what I have seen so far has a considerable price jump from the 205's, on the order of $50-60 per tire. Price range typically runs from $90-100 on mid grade 205's & jumps to ~$150 a tire for the 215's.

Does that sound right? I would like to run the 215's, but not sure it's worth ~$200+ more for a set. What I will buy is a set of ~25,000 mile tires, softer rubber compound - I like the traction and if tire pressure is maintained, rotate every oil change, that equates to a tire change every 3 years for me - every 2 years if I've been flogging it.
 
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