zc swaped but bad idle

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

cavrx

Senior Member
:unsure: :unsure: well i got the motor in and it starts but it fluctuates idle. and its throwing codes 4,5,and 10. i've checked all i know to check anyone have a hypothisis???????????? :worthy:
 
Yeah, I just got mine in and it runs and I'm having the same problems. I am getting the same ecu codes as well. I have a question about my throttle body. I had to use the SI throttle body cuz the TPS was broken. Well, the SI has a vacuum connector that the ZC throttle body doesnt. My question is what plugs into the vacuum plug on the front of the throttle body. I believe this will lower my idle, it is idling at around 1800 rpm. If not, how do you manually lower the idle on the throttle body. Thanks.
 
code 4 - crank angle sensor - check your distributor wiring
code 5 - MAP sensor - make sure it is connected - electrical and vacuum
code 10 - intake air temp - on the driver's side end of the intake manifold

vacuum lines
1. on throttle body at top center - red braided cloth covered line to purge cannister
2. on throttle body at top, closer to front of car - line to bottom of MAP sensor on firewall
3. on front of intake manifold - 3 nipples - one on left to dashpot on front of TB - one at center (larger) to PCV valve - one on right to fuel pressure regulator
4. on driver's side end of intake manifold - elbow pointing up - brake booster
5. if engine came from automatic car, there will be 2 nipples on back of intake manifold next to TB - plug the larger - run line from smaller to bottom of purge cut-off solenoid on firewall, right next to MAP sensor - run line from side of purge cut-off solenoid to cannister - if engine came from manual car and doesn't have these 2 nipples, put a tee into the line on the front that goes to the dashpot and run this to the side of the purge cut-off solenoid
6. some cars have a fuel pressure cut-off solenoid on the firewall just to the right of the purge cut-off solenoid - you don't need it - you can hook it up if you want - doesn't seem to make any difference - run line from front of intake manifold nipple on right to bottom of solenoid and line back from side of solenoid to fuel pressure regulator
 
Thanks for the input jlicrx, I'll try all the connections and see what happens. I also found that the cylinder closest to the dist. cap isnt running. i removed all the pllug wires one by one and they all fluctuated idle except the one at the end . any sugestions?
 
Ok, I got the idle down and now I'm throwing a code 9. Thats the only one im throwing right now. The problem is that the car is slow as balls!!!! Could my distributor be bad, would that cause it to be so slow. Can a bad distributor cause such a noticeable difference. I mean I'm getting a code 9 and thats the only thing left. Please help guys, I need my car back bad. Thanks.
 
Hey man, when my distributor went my car just cut out really bad and I found out it was my Ignition Output signal which related to the TDC/CKY/CYP sensor which was in my distributor, so i just got a new distributor for $65 and fixed it, the best part is the junk yard I found was a gold Mine, for Integra and a few CRX, actualyl guite a bit of Rex parts... Awesome, they have about 6 Rex's and 2.5 Integra's!!! Im happy, I think I buy all the Teg's from him! Raney's Auto Salvage... 12583 Outer Road Odessa, Mo 64076 #816-230-4587 call and see if htey have anything you may need, or ask me to call and I get it for ya'
 
hey guys - i think we have two theads in one here - one for the SOHC ZC (cavrx)and one for the DOHC ZC (allmotord16rex) - my reply on the vacuum lines was for allmotord16rex and the DOHC ZC.
 
Back
Top