Seany-izzle

Well in my quest for a new vehicle I always had the thought of getting a CRV. My parents had a 97 and I really liked it. the only real problem was the lack of power, my mom had the automatic (probably the first problem) and it struggled to get up steep hills. Friends mom had a manual and it wasnt AS bad but still chored to get up big hills. Well i dont like any of the 02+ ones, and all the ones i can find around here are in the 90k+ range. Here's where i got to thinkin... b20 longblocks are stupid cheap, 750 bucks. How could i get more power with it? Well nothing much w/o headwork and some cams. Then i said to myself "b20 vtec". blah blah b20 vtecs arent reliable, only if you dont do it right

quick parts list i came up with..

b16 head, im, dist, ecu
gsr oil pump, t belt, water pump
arp head studs
ge vtec kit
fpr, high flow pump
some sort of header (itr or dc knock off)
hks sport exhaust?? only thing i can find, 60mm piping

thats pretty much it, im not gonna get into switching out pistons, valve springs, cams, etc. So its a pretty basic b20 vtec. Pretty much the only thing that has me questioning this is the strength of the crv axles and ds. I mean, the power wont be that high, maybe around 170hp/140tq tuned (unless im totally off here..) and what i really want is tq and low-mid power, f top end :P Plus its not like im trying to make a beast, obviously

Sooo i guess im asking if the crv could handle it and is the b20 vtec pretty much a bolt on affair? Keeping the complete b20z bottom end and simply just slappin on a b16 complete head with i/h/e. I think i'd be very happy with it, a crv with some more pep and no struggle to get up hills andstill quiet enough and smooth enough to drive every day.

Anyone got opinions, advice, suggestions, critisizm, etc??

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My name is Sean.

97hatch

do it ive wanted to do a boosted one for a long time but never have come across a good deal on one. and about a ls vtec not being reliable this is my statement. i ran ab20b with a b16 head and itbs for a bout 35k and never had a problem and i never did the water pump or pil pump i never reved it over 8200 and it seamed to be all good when i pullled it out two weeks ago to build it. i drove the car from texas to indiana twice and never had a problem. you also have the option of buying a bisi trany adapter and runing a h22 or a h23 that would be a cool swap.

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Seany-izzle

an h22 swap would be cool, i looked briefly and couldnt find any mounts, plus the b20 route is cheaper :P I can find crv's for like 6k all day long up here, add the cost of the motor and vtec head (plus the goodies) im only lookin at about another 3-3.5 grand with a header and exhaust. Only thing is, i dont want it to make much noise (hence the hks sport, plus its the only one i can find), anyone know the stock exhaust dia?

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My name is Sean.

CRXSi86

i dont think you should worry about the axles, there basically the same as LS axles, not the rear thoguh, rears are pencil thin, but my buddy has an LS-T with 250 whp and 250 lb-ft torque, his axles are fine. i think you should be alright, but im not 100% sure

Seany-izzle

are they the same axles?? Im just not sure because i imagine they are longer and im pretty sure the ends are different. When i asked this i totally forgot honda awd is like what... 85/15 or 90/10.

What i listed is all i need right? Should i get a odb1 ecu (p72?) and a harness then have it tuned or just run the gsr ecu (atleast until that money comes available)?

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My name is Sean.

Seany-izzle

damn, i ball park priced everything.. god damn!

b16 head 500
arp headstuds 130
p72 200
obd1-2 harness 130
knock senson 25
97+ lude injectors 150
fpr 100
im gasket 50
fuel pump 75
ge vtec kit 200
dc header 300
hks exhaust 525
tuning 150

total 2435 not including shipping on the parts plus the cost of a shipped motor and new waterpump/timing belt (1k) = 3500 and not even a new trans or axles!! Thats quite a bit more than i expected, or do i have unnecessary parts/off prices?

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My name is Sean.

97hatch

it can be done cheeper you dont need biger injectors or pump and you could just drill the head with a 14mm drill to relocate the dowels buy the fittings to run oil to the head from the oil pressure sending unit spot ( pm me for a list of fittings and such) you probaly dont need the fpr i think you can get a obd2-obd1 cheaper than that i think thas all the in put i have right now

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pissedoffsol

you'd want a p30 (no iab control) or even better, a chipped p28 and throw out the knock crap. stock 240cc injectors will support the crvtec powerlevel (assuming stock internals)
the stock rail has a FPR on it. no need for a new one
the fuel pump is also fine.

so i think you can shave off some cost

hazzardboy95

This thing sounds pretty bad ass, the weak spot on the b20's is the thin cylinder walls isnt it?

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jimboburgess

90/10 so don't worry about the rear axles
if you find 84mm pistons for with higher compression you could have something pretty fun to drive. but if you don't want to fool with the bottom end, then it still should be fun. thing about vtec is it's all top end as you know so you'll have to be sure to consider implications of revving to 8200rpm

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sirmerced

So what trans are you using? I have an auto, and have found no place that would properly prep an auto for 200hp.

lewellgd

I can get you h22 with 90,000 miles with axles motor shift linkages any thing u need for like 1700 bucks just try to find mount kit and let me no.


I have the hole car that is totaled it was hit in the rear. Engine is strong.

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SHOGUNOVDDRK

do it...i too always flirted with doing one up but price is way outta ma range...

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I must be crazy

Im australian!

Z6CRX

I know this thread is old.

Anyone ever flirt with the idea of an H2B into one?
Or even just fabricating a turbo setup.

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