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VTECPOWER · 06-21-2005, 10:35 PM

The crx's brakes are bad, i have to press the pedal all the way to the floor to get them to grab, so far ive replaced, front pads, rear drum pads, rear hydraulic wheel cylinder, had to make rear brake lines, fine no leaks-used a pipe bender, and also replaced the master cylinder, and the brakes still suck! I have bled all corners where no air comes out, what could this be? The only thing i can think of it the brake booster?
Any idea's?

pissedoffsol · 06-21-2005, 11:00 PM

def not the booster. the booster only assists your foot. if it was the booster, you'd know if, because you'd have to stand on th pedal to get it too move... unless your ARRRRnold. brake lines are like 2000 psi. lol

chances are, your rear drum is so far out of alignment, that the fronts won't grab like they should before the ppv sees the proper split.

VTECPOWER · 06-22-2005, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by pissedoffsol@Jun 21 2005, 11:00 PM
def not the booster. the booster only assists your foot. if it was the booster, you'd know if, because you'd have to stand on th pedal to get it too move... unless your ARRRRnold. brake lines are like 2000 psi. lol

chances are, your rear drum is so far out of alignment, that the fronts won't grab like they should before the ppv sees the proper split.

Quoted post

wow i really didnt understand what you just said, what exactly do i need to do?

abdelsol · 06-22-2005, 11:49 AM

Did you bleed the master cylinder? If not probably air still in the system. It take a lot of fluid to push it to the back of the car and out.......

pissedoffsol · 06-22-2005, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by VTECPOWER+Jun 22 2005, 10:52 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(VTECPOWER @ Jun 22 2005, 10:52 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-pissedoffsol@Jun 21 2005, 11:00 PM
def not the booster. the booster only assists your foot. if it was the booster, you'd know if, because you'd have to stand on th pedal to get it too move... unless your ARRRRnold. brake lines are like 2000 psi. lol

chances are, your rear drum is so far out of alignment, that the fronts won't grab like they should before the ppv sees the proper split.

Quoted post

wow i really didnt understand what you just said, what exactly do i need to do?

Quoted post

[/b][/quote]

sorry, that post sucked in terms of english.

lol

anyway, what i was getting at, is that the rear drums on civics are supposed to be self-adjusting. unfortunately, they suck at this.

put the drum off, and get in there and tighten 'em down.

VTECPOWER · 06-22-2005, 02:17 PM

I did the bench bleeding for the master cylinder, and bled all 4 corners til all the air was gone out of the lines.
What exactly do I tighten down in the drums? I.E: where?

abdelsol · 06-22-2005, 02:48 PM

To get the shoes inside the drum you had to turn the self adjuster so it was in (retracted). Then upon use it will extend so the travel to contact and braking is short. Pissed off is saying to go in and manually adjust it out some so the drum just fits over the brake shoes.

I have had to do that on several cars though the years......

VTECPOWER · 06-22-2005, 04:12 PM

what do i adjust? the long bar thing on the lower side of the drums? and adjust it outwards?

pissedoffsol · 06-22-2005, 04:23 PM

yeah, screw it until you can BARELY get the cover back on. like, use a rubber mallet to get it back on.

VTECPOWER · 06-23-2005, 11:28 AM

Ok, those have been adjusted and the brakes are still shitty, they grab very close to the floor, i dont know what else to check, anyone have suggestions?
Also like i said previously all of the corners have been bled.

abdelsol · 06-23-2005, 05:15 PM

explain you bleeding process.

It can only be a few things, leaks, air or the master cylinder is bad.

VTECPOWER · 06-23-2005, 05:27 PM

loosen the bleeder, press down and hold brake, tighten bleeder, let up brake pedal, all of this with the master cyl cap off, re fill brake fluid in cylinder.

VTECPOWER · 06-23-2005, 05:28 PM

Oh yea, and the master cylinder is brand new.

GSRCRXsi · 06-23-2005, 05:45 PM

when bleeding you want to pump the brakes a few times and then hold the pedal firmly before opening the bleeder. then when you open it, dont close it til your foot hits the floor, o right before it hits the floor. do that about 2-3 times per corner in the proper order, and you should be good.

VTECPOWER · 06-23-2005, 07:03 PM

What exactly is the proper order? Can't remember.

abdelsol · 06-24-2005, 12:47 AM

That was just covered in another thread, but I always start Right rear, Left Rear, Right Front , Left Front. Never had a issue with that.

I don't know that it make a difference but I always close the bleeder before the pedal stops. I want the fluid moving not stagnet.

B16RacerN2NR · 06-24-2005, 01:01 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by abdelsol@Jun 23 2005, 11:47 PM
That was just covered in another thread, but I always start Right rear, Left Rear, Right Front , Left Front. Never had a issue with that.

I don't know that it make a difference but I always close the bleeder before the pedal stops. I want the fluid moving not stagnet.

Quoted post

yeah, pretty much your going to start with the one furthest from the master cylinder.

do exactly as GSRCRX said

GSRCRXsi · 06-24-2005, 01:37 AM

i guess it depend on what car you have. my integra helms says left rear, right front, right rear, left front. my crx manual is differnt though, i dont know off hand though. but with the crx, ive never had a problem with farthest from master to closest either.

Citizen_Insane · 06-24-2005, 12:44 PM

For the CRX, the bleeding order is:
Left Front, Right Rear, Right Front, Left Rear
(Straight from the Helms)

VTECPOWER · 06-24-2005, 12:48 PM

Thanks man, i have to buy a new alternator, i buy one for a 1990 integra correct? because i am obd0, then i will bleed the brakes again, also i bought the fuel rail and fpr off of a guy here on hondaswap. After that i should be good, only throwing that ground code, i think my ground in the fuse box is bad because i tried placing a ground in there for my gauges/tach and it didnt work, i had to relocate it, where does that ground go to in the engine harness?
And yesterday i got the tach wired and mounted where i want it, looks pretty nice!

92civicb18b1 · 06-24-2005, 01:34 PM

Instead of bleeding them like that. Try it the way I do it

1. Take a hose, put it on the bleeder screw.

2. Insert hose from bleeder screw and put it in a cup of brake fluid.
-Make sure it's facing the ground.
-Make sure it's submerged like an inch.

3. Open bleeder valve.

4. Pump brakes until you see no air in the tube or until you're satisfied.

Move on to the next caliper and repeat.

----------------------------------------------------------

You only have to open and close the valve once, when it's submerged no air will be sucked back in, only brake fluid. When you do close it no air will be trapped either because BF will still be in the tube and any suction will just suck up some fluid. This has always worked for me and is a one person job. Or you can get a one-way speed bleeder valve and make it even easier.

On the porsche, it took so long to get all the air bubbles out I just made a contraption with a vacuum...it actually worked well and took like 2 minutes a caliper if that.

VTECPOWER · 06-24-2005, 04:03 PM

That's not a bad idea, ill try that, but it'll have to be after i get the car runnin!

GSRCRXsi · 06-24-2005, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Citizen_Insane@Jun 24 2005, 11:44 AM
For the CRX, the bleeding order is:
Left Front, Right Rear, Right Front, Left Rear
(Straight from the Helms)

Quoted post

my crx helms says almost the opposite of that.

right rear, left front, left rear, right front

VTECPOWER · 06-26-2005, 03:07 PM

I did the bleeding the way gsrcrxsi said to and it still has not helped much, this is really pissing me off and i dont want to take this into a shop.

06-21-2005, 10:35 PM	#1
VTECPOWER Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Winchester, VA Posts: 1,683 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 27	The crx's brakes are bad, i have to press the pedal all the way to the floor to get them to grab, so far ive replaced, front pads, rear drum pads, rear hydraulic wheel cylinder, had to make rear brake lines, fine no leaks-used a pipe bender, and also replaced the master cylinder, and the brakes still suck! I have bled all corners where no air comes out, what could this be? The only thing i can think of it the brake booster? Any idea's? __________________ DB8 450whp project......

06-22-2005, 02:17 PM	#6
VTECPOWER Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Winchester, VA Posts: 1,683 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 27	I did the bench bleeding for the master cylinder, and bled all 4 corners til all the air was gone out of the lines. What exactly do I tighten down in the drums? I.E: where? __________________ DB8 450whp project......

06-22-2005, 04:12 PM	#8
VTECPOWER Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Winchester, VA Posts: 1,683 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 27	what do i adjust? the long bar thing on the lower side of the drums? and adjust it outwards? __________________ DB8 450whp project......

06-23-2005, 11:28 AM	#10
VTECPOWER Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Winchester, VA Posts: 1,683 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 27	Ok, those have been adjusted and the brakes are still shitty, they grab very close to the floor, i dont know what else to check, anyone have suggestions? Also like i said previously all of the corners have been bled. __________________ DB8 450whp project......

06-23-2005, 05:27 PM	#12
VTECPOWER Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Winchester, VA Posts: 1,683 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 27	loosen the bleeder, press down and hold brake, tighten bleeder, let up brake pedal, all of this with the master cyl cap off, re fill brake fluid in cylinder. __________________ DB8 450whp project......


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06-21-2005, 11:00 PM	#2
pissedoffsol RETIRED Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Retirement Home Age: 28 Posts: 49,974 iTrader: 2 / 100% Ride: Electric Scooter Blog Entries: 1 Rep Power: 529	def not the booster. the booster only assists your foot. if it was the booster, you'd know if, because you'd have to stand on th pedal to get it too move... unless your ARRRRnold. brake lines are like 2000 psi. lol chances are, your rear drum is so far out of alignment, that the fronts won't grab like they should before the ppv sees the proper split.

06-22-2005, 11:49 AM	#4
abdelsol Member Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 89 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 8	Did you bleed the master cylinder? If not probably air still in the system. It take a lot of fluid to push it to the back of the car and out.......

06-22-2005, 02:48 PM	#7
abdelsol Member Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 89 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 8	To get the shoes inside the drum you had to turn the self adjuster so it was in (retracted). Then upon use it will extend so the travel to contact and braking is short. Pissed off is saying to go in and manually adjust it out some so the drum just fits over the brake shoes. I have had to do that on several cars though the years......

06-22-2005, 04:23 PM	#9
pissedoffsol RETIRED Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Retirement Home Age: 28 Posts: 49,974 iTrader: 2 / 100% Ride: Electric Scooter Blog Entries: 1 Rep Power: 529	yeah, screw it until you can BARELY get the cover back on. like, use a rubber mallet to get it back on.

06-23-2005, 05:15 PM	#11
abdelsol Member Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 89 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 8	explain you bleeding process. It can only be a few things, leaks, air or the master cylinder is bad.

06-23-2005, 05:28 PM	#13
VTECPOWER Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Winchester, VA Posts: 1,683 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 27	Oh yea, and the master cylinder is brand new. __________________ DB8 450whp project......

06-23-2005, 07:03 PM	#15
VTECPOWER Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Winchester, VA Posts: 1,683 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 27	What exactly is the proper order? Can't remember. __________________ DB8 450whp project......

06-24-2005, 12:47 AM	#16
abdelsol Member Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 89 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 8	That was just covered in another thread, but I always start Right rear, Left Rear, Right Front , Left Front. Never had a issue with that. I don't know that it make a difference but I always close the bleeder before the pedal stops. I want the fluid moving not stagnet.

06-24-2005, 12:44 PM	#19
Citizen_Insane Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Minneapolis Posts: 3,698 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 48	For the CRX, the bleeding order is: Left Front, Right Rear, Right Front, Left Rear (Straight from the Helms) __________________ No tech questions through PM please! B16 CRX....you will be missed

06-24-2005, 12:48 PM	#20
VTECPOWER Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Winchester, VA Posts: 1,683 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 27	Thanks man, i have to buy a new alternator, i buy one for a 1990 integra correct? because i am obd0, then i will bleed the brakes again, also i bought the fuel rail and fpr off of a guy here on hondaswap. After that i should be good, only throwing that ground code, i think my ground in the fuse box is bad because i tried placing a ground in there for my gauges/tach and it didnt work, i had to relocate it, where does that ground go to in the engine harness? And yesterday i got the tach wired and mounted where i want it, looks pretty nice! __________________ DB8 450whp project......

06-24-2005, 01:34 PM	#21
92civicb18b1 The Trisexual Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: The asshole of the USA, New Jersey Age: 21 Posts: 8,859 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 2007 Civic, 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rep Power: 121	Instead of bleeding them like that. Try it the way I do it 1. Take a hose, put it on the bleeder screw. 2. Insert hose from bleeder screw and put it in a cup of brake fluid. -Make sure it's facing the ground. -Make sure it's submerged like an inch. 3. Open bleeder valve. 4. Pump brakes until you see no air in the tube or until you're satisfied. Move on to the next caliper and repeat. ---------------------------------------------------------- You only have to open and close the valve once, when it's submerged no air will be sucked back in, only brake fluid. When you do close it no air will be trapped either because BF will still be in the tube and any suction will just suck up some fluid. This has always worked for me and is a one person job. Or you can get a one-way speed bleeder valve and make it even easier. On the porsche, it took so long to get all the air bubbles out I just made a contraption with a vacuum...it actually worked well and took like 2 minutes a caliper if that. __________________ DO NOT PM ME WITH TECH QUESTIONS!!! Current Rides 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee =I love this truck 2007 Civic =Not sure what the future holds for this Previous 1992 Civic DX Hatch = 1994 B18B1 Turbo Rebuilt Garrett .60/.48 T3, log style mani and DIY downpipe, DSM 440's, kteller IC piping, JRC Intercooler, Home Depot style oil lines, HKS BOV, Crome Tuned, 253whp 1994 Civic VX Hatch, 1992 b18a1 swap 1993 Civic CX Hatch, 2000 B18b1

06-24-2005, 04:03 PM	#22
VTECPOWER Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Winchester, VA Posts: 1,683 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 27	That's not a bad idea, ill try that, but it'll have to be after i get the car runnin! __________________ DB8 450whp project......

06-26-2005, 03:07 PM	#24
VTECPOWER Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Winchester, VA Posts: 1,683 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 27	I did the bleeding the way gsrcrxsi said to and it still has not helped much, this is really pissing me off and i dont want to take this into a shop. __________________ DB8 450whp project......

06-26-2005, 03:40 PM	#25
92b16vx B happy Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Location: Location: Location: Age: 37 Posts: 12,886 iTrader: 1 / 100% Ride: dohc 95 egg Rep Power: 165

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