Hondaswap.com | Honda Technical & JDM styling Forums

confusatron · 10-30-2005, 05:46 PM

I bought this set from a store called www.Fasterthanthem.com. I was under the impression based on the pictures that I was getting inserts for all 3 motor mounts and the 2 under the fender well mounts on each side. Turns out it was just the timing cover motor mount and some other one that looks like it may have been for a D series transmission mount. That ones unusable since I have a B series trans, and I already have a Hasport auto-to-manual urethane mount on that side. The timing cover mount insert is in four pieces: the hollow steel center pin, two outer red bushings, and the inner black one that comes with two different ones depending on what you want. One is softer for street use, the other is as hard as a goddamn hockey puck and is for race use only. I used the street one.

Here's a basic how-to. If you want pictures, too bad [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]. You can see everything I'm referring to in the 5 inch square or so area that I'm referring to and if you need pictures you're just lazy.

First: place a jack under the oil pan with a block of wood in between it and the jack platform thing. This prevents you from deforming your oil pan. Next, you will want to remove the single bolt on the fender rail first. Unclip the power steering fluid reservoir from in front of where this bolt is to make getting at it with a ratchet easier. The bolt is 17mm.

Once you have that bolt out, then disconnect the power steering line at the top of the power steering pump. 10mm bolts. Some fluid will leak out, but don't sweat it. Just make sure you wipe the fluid off the belt if any gets on it. Now you can get at the two motor-side nuts with a ratchet a little easier. Again they are 17mm nuts, and you have to use a Deep Wall socket this time. The motor may shift slightly when you remove these nuts, but as long as your jack is sturdy, there should be no problems.

Now pull the mount out. Here's the omg-such-a-pain-in-the-ass part. You will have to remove not just the rubber part of the mount, but also everything but the outer metal circle from the mount in order to do put the new urethane inserts in. This is a real bitch let me tell you. And the rubber is filled with fluid, I think hydraulic, just so you know when it starts squirting out at you. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img] So basically what I did is i chiseled away at it with a mallet and a flathead screwdriver. Took a long time. The hardest part was the last inner ring before the outer one. It's made of steel. So basically I handed it to my buddy, the mechanic and said "OMG WTF!" He grabbed his air chisel and basically went at it for about 30 seconds and ripped and peeled that ring outta there. Air tools 1: me: 0. Lucky I got a friend who's a mechanic or I would have had to pay someone to do this. Any of you guys who may be planning to do this, you might want to pay a shop a couple bucks to press the old mount out if you don't have access to a hydraulic press or an air chisel. Save you some headaches.

So once you have that last ring out, clean the mount inside and out so as not to get gunk on your fancy red urethane bushings. Grease the inside of the mount with lithium grease, then position the black insert so that "UP" is pointing where the top of the mount will be when you put it back in the car. Then mallet the black center bushing into place. Get it as close to perfect as possible. Then you can mallet in the two outer red bushings until they are flush with the mount. This takes a little patience, but it's not hard.

Last, go ahead and pop the new mount back into place. I strongly recommend you do the long bolt first, then the two nuts. Then reattach the power steering line, put the reservoir back in place, and you're done.

I noticed a slight vibration in the car after installing the mount, but I also noticed less engine shake and a "tighter feel" to the car during acceleration as I was driving it afterwards, if that means anything. Overall I'm happy with the result, and even though getting the old mount removed was a bitch, it's a lot better than paying 5 times the price for a urethane mount that's already put together. If you have access to the right tools anyway. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

VTECPOWER · 11-05-2005, 01:54 PM

When you swapped why didnt you just get better mounts? Like hasport?

phyregod · 11-05-2005, 02:13 PM

I got the energy suspension motor mount inserts. Its red urethane inserts that fit into the factory mounts to stiffen them up. Also comes with big washers to hold it all together. I used them on my factory D16a6 and they went on the front and rear mounts. And holy shit did that make a difference. Reduced wheel hop significantly. And interior rattles increased significantly. Good trade off, I went around for the next couple of weeks fixing rattles.

It was a huge difference between badly worn stock mounts to those inserts. Highly recomended.

VTECPOWER · 11-05-2005, 02:58 PM

[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]
Ill get them when i get my civic back, d16y8.
Should help out some.

confusatron · 11-05-2005, 09:24 PM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(VTECPOWER @ Nov 5 2005, 12:54 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
When you swapped why didnt you just get better mounts? Like hasport?
[/b][/quote]

Too goddamn expensive for the complete set, so I only got the one I really needed, which was the auto to manual conversion transmission mount.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(phyregod @ Nov 5 2005, 01:13 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I got the energy suspension motor mount inserts. Its red urethane inserts that fit into the factory mounts to stiffen them up. Also comes with big washers to hold it all together. I used them on my factory D16a6 and they went on the front and rear mounts. And holy shit did that make a difference. Reduced wheel hop significantly. And interior rattles increased significantly. Good trade off, I went around for the next couple of weeks fixing rattles.

It was a huge difference between badly worn stock mounts to those inserts. Highly recomended.
[/b][/quote]

Yeah dude, but I've found that the vibration it causes in the interior is very bearable. Sometimes if I'm sitting at a stoplight it's kind of relaxing...like a massage... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]

But the package they sent me came with a second mount insert, I think it's for the trans mount, but since I already have a Hasport urethane trans mount, I've got no use for it. I gotta try and sell this thing somewhere.

extcoupe · 11-08-2005, 02:48 PM

whats going on every one?

i have those prothane motor mount inserts in my civic too. well the vibration is not as bad as when i first put the prothane in, they had to brake in a little but the motor dos not move at all. most the vibration coms from the fire wall mount cause i had to titen that mount three time so for with them in. then on the upper trans mount i just popped that one off put them in and put the bolt back in i was done. the one i could not do was the main motor mount were the timing belt is i had to have a friend press it out then give it back to me.

for the $20 dollors i spent on them it was worth the money!

confusatron · 11-08-2005, 03:01 PM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(extcoupe @ Nov 8 2005, 01:48 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
whats going on every one?

i have those prothane motor mount inserts in my civic too. well the vibration is not as bad as when i first put the prothane in, they had to brake in a little but the motor dos not move at all. most the vibration coms from the fire wall mount cause i had to titen that mount three time so for with them in. then on the upper trans mount i just popped that one off put them in and put the bolt back in i was done. the one i could not do was the main motor mount were the timing belt is i had to have a friend press it out then give it back to me.

for the $20 dollors i spent on them it was worth the money!
[/b][/quote]

Yeah I remember when I had new motor mounts put into my 90 camry, and for the first month or so the vibration was really bad. And those were regular OEM rubber mounts, so I guess there is a break in period for any type of new mount bushing. I imagine the vibration on these urethane mounts will go down after a while.

TurboMirage · 11-08-2005, 07:53 PM

for those who are air-tool deprived like i was... you can take a hacksaw apart and put it back together with the blade inside the mount to cut the ring out. you have to cut it COMPLETELY in 2 places, though.

brian11to1 · 11-08-2005, 07:58 PM

i hate mine. they fucking suck. you'll see.

confusatron · 11-09-2005, 01:44 AM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(brian11to1 @ Nov 8 2005, 06:58 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
i hate mine. they fucking suck. you'll see.
[/b][/quote]

At what point in time? Months down the road? Elaborate for us, dude. Does something catastrophic happen after a certain amount of time? So far I love mine.

10-30-2005, 05:46 PM	#1
confusatron Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Chicago area Posts: 464 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 11	I bought this set from a store called www.Fasterthanthem.com. I was under the impression based on the pictures that I was getting inserts for all 3 motor mounts and the 2 under the fender well mounts on each side. Turns out it was just the timing cover motor mount and some other one that looks like it may have been for a D series transmission mount. That ones unusable since I have a B series trans, and I already have a Hasport auto-to-manual urethane mount on that side. The timing cover mount insert is in four pieces: the hollow steel center pin, two outer red bushings, and the inner black one that comes with two different ones depending on what you want. One is softer for street use, the other is as hard as a goddamn hockey puck and is for race use only. I used the street one. Here's a basic how-to. If you want pictures, too bad [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]. You can see everything I'm referring to in the 5 inch square or so area that I'm referring to and if you need pictures you're just lazy. First: place a jack under the oil pan with a block of wood in between it and the jack platform thing. This prevents you from deforming your oil pan. Next, you will want to remove the single bolt on the fender rail first. Unclip the power steering fluid reservoir from in front of where this bolt is to make getting at it with a ratchet easier. The bolt is 17mm. Once you have that bolt out, then disconnect the power steering line at the top of the power steering pump. 10mm bolts. Some fluid will leak out, but don't sweat it. Just make sure you wipe the fluid off the belt if any gets on it. Now you can get at the two motor-side nuts with a ratchet a little easier. Again they are 17mm nuts, and you have to use a Deep Wall socket this time. The motor may shift slightly when you remove these nuts, but as long as your jack is sturdy, there should be no problems. Now pull the mount out. Here's the omg-such-a-pain-in-the-ass part. You will have to remove not just the rubber part of the mount, but also everything but the outer metal circle from the mount in order to do put the new urethane inserts in. This is a real bitch let me tell you. And the rubber is filled with fluid, I think hydraulic, just so you know when it starts squirting out at you. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img] So basically what I did is i chiseled away at it with a mallet and a flathead screwdriver. Took a long time. The hardest part was the last inner ring before the outer one. It's made of steel. So basically I handed it to my buddy, the mechanic and said "OMG WTF!" He grabbed his air chisel and basically went at it for about 30 seconds and ripped and peeled that ring outta there. Air tools 1: me: 0. Lucky I got a friend who's a mechanic or I would have had to pay someone to do this. Any of you guys who may be planning to do this, you might want to pay a shop a couple bucks to press the old mount out if you don't have access to a hydraulic press or an air chisel. Save you some headaches. So once you have that last ring out, clean the mount inside and out so as not to get gunk on your fancy red urethane bushings. Grease the inside of the mount with lithium grease, then position the black insert so that "UP" is pointing where the top of the mount will be when you put it back in the car. Then mallet the black center bushing into place. Get it as close to perfect as possible. Then you can mallet in the two outer red bushings until they are flush with the mount. This takes a little patience, but it's not hard. Last, go ahead and pop the new mount back into place. I strongly recommend you do the long bolt first, then the two nuts. Then reattach the power steering line, put the reservoir back in place, and you're done. I noticed a slight vibration in the car after installing the mount, but I also noticed less engine shake and a "tighter feel" to the car during acceleration as I was driving it afterwards, if that means anything. Overall I'm happy with the result, and even though getting the old mount removed was a bitch, it's a lot better than paying 5 times the price for a urethane mount that's already put together. If you have access to the right tools anyway. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img] __________________ 1993 Civic DX Hatch B16A SiR-II --SOLD! 1988 Supra Turbo automatic FOR SALE $2000 needs trans repair, power steering repair, a few leaks, Clean Body, Alpine, leather interior in decent shape, JDM motor rebuilt with HKS metal head gasket and ARP head bolts. 1996 Toyota Celica GT (daily driver)

11-05-2005, 01:54 PM	#2
VTECPOWER Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Winchester, VA Posts: 1,683 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 27	When you swapped why didnt you just get better mounts? Like hasport? __________________ DB8 450whp project......

11-05-2005, 02:58 PM	#4
VTECPOWER Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Winchester, VA Posts: 1,683 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 27	[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img] Ill get them when i get my civic back, d16y8. Should help out some. __________________ DB8 450whp project......

11-05-2005, 09:24 PM	#5
confusatron Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Chicago area Posts: 464 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 11	<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(VTECPOWER @ Nov 5 2005, 12:54 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'> When you swapped why didnt you just get better mounts? Like hasport? [/b][/quote] Too goddamn expensive for the complete set, so I only got the one I really needed, which was the auto to manual conversion transmission mount. <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(phyregod @ Nov 5 2005, 01:13 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'> I got the energy suspension motor mount inserts. Its red urethane inserts that fit into the factory mounts to stiffen them up. Also comes with big washers to hold it all together. I used them on my factory D16a6 and they went on the front and rear mounts. And holy shit did that make a difference. Reduced wheel hop significantly. And interior rattles increased significantly. Good trade off, I went around for the next couple of weeks fixing rattles. It was a huge difference between badly worn stock mounts to those inserts. Highly recomended. [/b][/quote] Yeah dude, but I've found that the vibration it causes in the interior is very bearable. Sometimes if I'm sitting at a stoplight it's kind of relaxing...like a massage... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img] But the package they sent me came with a second mount insert, I think it's for the trans mount, but since I already have a Hasport urethane trans mount, I've got no use for it. I gotta try and sell this thing somewhere. __________________ 1993 Civic DX Hatch B16A SiR-II --SOLD! 1988 Supra Turbo automatic FOR SALE $2000 needs trans repair, power steering repair, a few leaks, Clean Body, Alpine, leather interior in decent shape, JDM motor rebuilt with HKS metal head gasket and ARP head bolts. 1996 Toyota Celica GT (daily driver)

11-08-2005, 03:01 PM	#7
confusatron Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Chicago area Posts: 464 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 11	<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(extcoupe @ Nov 8 2005, 01:48 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'> whats going on every one? i have those prothane motor mount inserts in my civic too. well the vibration is not as bad as when i first put the prothane in, they had to brake in a little but the motor dos not move at all. most the vibration coms from the fire wall mount cause i had to titen that mount three time so for with them in. then on the upper trans mount i just popped that one off put them in and put the bolt back in i was done. the one i could not do was the main motor mount were the timing belt is i had to have a friend press it out then give it back to me. for the $20 dollors i spent on them it was worth the money! [/b][/quote] Yeah I remember when I had new motor mounts put into my 90 camry, and for the first month or so the vibration was really bad. And those were regular OEM rubber mounts, so I guess there is a break in period for any type of new mount bushing. I imagine the vibration on these urethane mounts will go down after a while. __________________ 1993 Civic DX Hatch B16A SiR-II --SOLD! 1988 Supra Turbo automatic FOR SALE $2000 needs trans repair, power steering repair, a few leaks, Clean Body, Alpine, leather interior in decent shape, JDM motor rebuilt with HKS metal head gasket and ARP head bolts. 1996 Toyota Celica GT (daily driver)


Welcome, Guest! Please Register or Login: User Name Password Members have access to more features, better search, and see fewer ads! It's free, what are you waiting for?

11-08-2005, 02:48 PM	#6
extcoupe Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: ga Posts: 11 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 0	whats going on every one? i have those prothane motor mount inserts in my civic too. well the vibration is not as bad as when i first put the prothane in, they had to brake in a little but the motor dos not move at all. most the vibration coms from the fire wall mount cause i had to titen that mount three time so for with them in. then on the upper trans mount i just popped that one off put them in and put the bolt back in i was done. the one i could not do was the main motor mount were the timing belt is i had to have a friend press it out then give it back to me. for the $20 dollors i spent on them it was worth the money!

11-08-2005, 07:53 PM	#8
TurboMirage Running on two cylinders Join Date: May 2003 Location: Southbridge, MA Age: 24 Posts: 16,187 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 2000 Mitsubishi Lancer RPW E5 Coupe Rep Power: 219	for those who are air-tool deprived like i was... you can take a hacksaw apart and put it back together with the blade inside the mount to cut the ring out. you have to cut it COMPLETELY in 2 places, though. __________________ Home of the RPW built 2000 Lancer CC Coupe. See what is done to the Little EVO5

11-08-2005, 07:58 PM	#9
brian11to1 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Posts: 8,907 iTrader: 2 / 100% Rep Power: 108	i hate mine. they fucking suck. you'll see. __________________ 90 Integra Sedan B20B - BROKEN LSVTEC - BROKEN PMTR - running strong! I DO NOT answer tech questions via PM. Use the forums!!!

11-09-2005, 01:44 AM	#10
confusatron Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Chicago area Posts: 464 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 11	<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(brian11to1 @ Nov 8 2005, 06:58 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'> i hate mine. they fucking suck. you'll see. [/b][/quote] At what point in time? Months down the road? Elaborate for us, dude. Does something catastrophic happen after a certain amount of time? So far I love mine. __________________ 1993 Civic DX Hatch B16A SiR-II --SOLD! 1988 Supra Turbo automatic FOR SALE $2000 needs trans repair, power steering repair, a few leaks, Clean Body, Alpine, leather interior in decent shape, JDM motor rebuilt with HKS metal head gasket and ARP head bolts. 1996 Toyota Celica GT (daily driver)

Hondaswap.com | Honda Technical & JDM styling Forums

Prothane motor mount insert set, installed today