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This is a discussion on rear drum conversion in the Wheels / Suspension / Tires / Brakes forum
does anyone know what the biggest rear disc break conversion is that can actually fit on my car, and what i need to go get, and were can i find it, plus im also very fuct on time, school and work, you think with all ...
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Posts: 110
| does anyone know what the biggest rear disc break conversion is that can actually fit on my car, and what i need to go get, and were can i find it, plus im also very fuct on time, school and work, you think with all the right tools i can pull it off on a sunday afternoon. say from 2 to like 8? thanx for the info |
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Posts: 27,319
| Depends on your wheels, anywhere, yes you can do it in 6 hours if you know what you're doing. |
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Posts: 14,032
| Replace all the nescessary parts BEFORE you go to put them on, check to make sure the calipers aren't seized, and put on new pads, and disc if you can. As far as the biggest, that would depend on as Calesta said, your rims, but once you get the conversion on you can mess around with that, but remember, you don't want your rear brakes working more than your front, as that throws a FWD out of balance. |
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Posts: 646
| I'm confused... I thought that the front brakes did a vast majority of the work stopping/slowing the car. Why get bigger back brakes? The increase in unsprung weight would make the car more difficult to stop and would make it slower. Adding unsprung weight is the worst possible weight to add. Article in GRM talks about testing on this subject. test car started at 2000# and a baseline of 1/4 in 14.7303. After removing 32# of unsprung weight (lighter wheels) the car ran 14.6303. When 32# of ballast (chassis weight) was added to the vehicle to make up for the lighter wheels the car still ran a quicker time of 14.6973. In order to get equal runs, 60# of chassis weight had to be removed from the car to equal the timeslips that removing only 32# of unsprung weight produced. cliff notes...... DO NOT ADD UNSPRUNG WEIGHT IF YOU WANT A QUICKER CAR |
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| | #5 |
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Posts: 27,319
| Yes, the front brakes do the majority of the braking- but the rears matter for maintaining the balance of the car and reducing dive under hard braking. As for the increase in unsprung weight affecting quarter mile times, not everyone cares about drag racing. Stronger braking and better balance matter a lot more to some people than getting faster times on the drag strip. Just converting from drums to discs won't increase your unsprung weight all that much anyway. |
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Posts: 4,571
| the stock drums vrs stock rotros comes out almost equal |
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Posts: 14,032
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| | #8 | |
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Posts: 646
| Quote:
That same 32# decrease in unsprung weight every 1/4 mile of straight coming out of a turn plus the increase in braking load on a road course adds up. If you want a build a faster car, there is no such thing as negligble unsprung weight unless the performance gain is going to outweight the weight. I don't think increasing stock rear drums or discs is going to make a big enough dif in performance or balance. FF cars already push like hades. If rear wheel lock up is an issue, add an adjustable proportioning kit to increase rear bias. THAT would be neglible chassis weight. But this is what makes this sport fun. We all have dif ways of making our cars faster. If they were all the same or if there was only ONE right way, it wouldn't be as much fun! | |
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| | #9 |
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Posts: 9,207
| depending on your car, you'll need the rear trailing arms from a 90-93 Integra, which includes everythin such as calipers, rotors, spindles, etc... the rear brake lines from an integra, rear e-brake cables and of course... uhh... lost my train of thought... good luck, adn if you want write a how to article so people will stop posting on this! |
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Posts: 14,032
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| | #11 |
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Posts: 9,207
| I never said he was limited to anything.. I wasnt clear what car he had... so i just threw out the DA9's brakes becuase I most familiar with that... can DA9 rear brakes fit onto a 96-2000 Civic? Thanks, sorry for the confusion 92B16vx |
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