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You live in New England, get some goddamned tires. I spent my whole life in Florida, and even I know that I need snow tires. I'm pissed we didn't get ANY snow!

I built one of these http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtopic.php?t=4890 Mark's circuit works well and you can easily log to anything that takes a 0-5v signal.

Uh, tuning? You have 12:1 compression and cams ona stock ECU and you expect it to idle like stock? On a stock LS ECU no less.....wow

If you are talking about the pressure switch on the back of the block, then just get rid of it if you don't want it. It is there only to feed the idiot light in the cluster. I would install an oil pressure gauge if I were you though.

Well last night my shop in Pawtucket, RI was broken into. The shitbags stole the following items: Full-Race ramhorn T3 manifold w/44mm vband WG flange Full-Race backdoor intercooer w/Tial BOV Tial 44mm wastegate w/vband Inline Pro SS T3 manifold Tial 38mm w/90* elbow Greddy turbo (18G) Greddy...

Is it a T4 exhaust housing?

Does his husband drive cars too? Bunch of soft, expensive cars but no real sports cars. I bet not one has a proper foot-clutch or hard top!

Well a timing light won't tell you much, since your base timing + the timing in the map is what the total timing will be. So like base 14 + 18 on the map gives you 32* total timing. Unless you have a mark on the crank pulley @ 32* or wherever else, it won't help. You SHOULD have set the base...

You need to ADD timing not pull it for a more complete burn. 18* or so is where I have found the optimal range to be in that idle corner of the map. Lean it down to 16:1 and your N0x will go through the roof, there is nothing wrong with idling at 14-15:1 as long as the timing is correct. For...

They look smiliar because they are the same board. The P30 just has a knock board and an 02 sensor heater circuit when compared to the P08. Any of these ECUs can be converted from auto to manual and vice versa. Ask someone who sockets ECUs or check out PGMFI.org (read the Wiki, all of it).

Uh, timing light much?

No, LS rods are shorter due to the longer stroke of the LS crank. Use rods that match your crank unless you are going with some weird pistons that have reised wrist pins. GSR rods with an LS crank = pistons smashing into head.

Oh please please PLEASE come kick all of our asses! I'll bring the slowest car in the fleet, on street tyres. I love outdated cars, and for some reason I have all this extra money since I didn't spend $20k on a new car or another $10k a year on insurance. Chris F is like Speed Racer on...

My .02: I run an Adaptec SATA with RAID 5, same 4x250GB setup you are thinking about and it has worked flawlessly since day 0. No problems at all, not even a hiccup. HDDs are so reliable these days, I wouldn't be afraid to run RAID 0 on a non-server application.

When I picked the head up, I instantly knew it was a 95 B16 head, which is fine because it has a decent port job and the chamber has had the valves deshrouded. The cams had the double ring on the end, but once I compared them to my GSR cams it was obvious that they were B16 cams. I called him...

Wow, what an idiot this dude is. Yes, this is from H-T to clarify. Dirty little bastards......the only upside is that the head has new bronze valveguides and a decent port job. Bleh, I'm pissed. Oh well, I have done OK buying shit online, actually pretty much everything Honda or car related...

Hey guys, I'm not around much anymore, but I just wanted to warn anyone against purchasing any items from this guy in Bloomfield, CT. Story below: I bought an alleged 97 ITR (or 01 depending on who you ask) head from brandond in Connecticut. His full name is Brandon Scott Derench. He claimed...

Chris knows his shit, but like everyone has stated, DON'T beat on it with a basemap, get that puppy t00ned!!

All you have to do to make it work is get the main caps from a GSR/ITR block and install them w/the girdle and have it align bored.

Disable the 02 heater circuit or add Q30 to the board and run the heater wires.