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Ok, real quick. I was corrected, admited to being incorrect and then made a joke and somebody thought I was serious... aight... Anyway, Solidifying your mounts does increase vibration, but also minimizes if not eliminates all movement of the engine relative to the car, this will eliminate...

Well, I have a Euro R H22A(Accord Euro R in Japan, Accord Type R in UK... H22A7) I enjoy the hell out of it, the tunability is amazing. I have a Hondata S200 P30 running it. It eats fuel, but it's a monster. I thought the Type S had a blue valve cover??? I don't know mucha bout the engine...

Ah, that's the testimonial I was looking for. Based on that, I won't be so negative on the window weld method... thanks. And loco.... DAMMIT!! I was gonna argue... I just look at it thermodynamically, and that's why I get the numbers I do... but yes, you're right and in the context that I...

ok, well it mostly applies to peeps who use an Atr manifold. I guess i should have mentioned that. well at any rate, if you need a hose... I alSo make hoses for other Scraps, so tell your friends. :spin:

i had the same issue with my swap and it ended up being a business opp. i make a hose specifically for 5th gens with h swaps and stock rail. if you need one, lemme know. they're cheaper than a new fuel rail and safer than a diy hose.

hondata has one. www.hondata.com

Negative, if you're talking about the purge valve looking thing right over the fuel rail, that's NOT the IAC, that's on the intake manifold. What you're looking at is call the Fuel Injection Air control valve. What it does is between 1500 and 3500 rpm(or so) it allows air to enter the fuel...

Thank you. As an update, I find this mixture of 80A to be sufficient for ZERO engine movement but it doesn't transfer every little clink into the chassis, it's quite nice and solid.. Makes the motor sound more like a race car both inside and outside of the car.

Pin D6 on the ECU Or... it could be A4, I forget... Wanna make it easy on yourself? Splice open, but don't cut your VTS wire at the ECU, Go ahead and CUT your VTM wire(VTEC oil pressure switch) FROM THE ECU splice it to the open VTS(VTEC solenoid)... This will defeat your VTEC oil pressure...

the 3 wire IAC is ground, signal, and 12v the 2 wire is ground/signal(combined) and 12v. You're going to have to switch IAC's unless someone can come up with a different wiring trick... The ECU is expecting different things as far as the IAC's go.

Here's a quick lesson into how and why you'd want to solidify your motor mounts. Let's start with a little bit of theory. Back in the day, engines were just bolted to the frame rails of the cars making for very little inter-chassis movement(engine moving inside the car). This was ok, because...

then in that case, just use the USDM color codes, they should all match up.

thanks, I knew I was forgetting something! :) It's also known as the IAB(Intake Air Bypass) which, in my opinion... is the suck.

yeah, pretty much. It's just JDM base H22A, right? not the Type S, or Euro R?

Yes, your Accord intake should work(mine did, however I have a Euro R so the manifolds are different). Since you have an LX, you'll need to run vtec oil pressure switch, vtec solenoid, knock sensor and I think one other thing that I can't remember right now... :) I haven't slept in a very long...

Damn, you beat me to it. Nice... :) I was gonna say stab that little sucker with a screwdriver until it dies, but I guess ripping out the bulb is less dramatic.

ok... so it was exactly what we all said. Headgasket. the problem with the head gasket was that there was that peice of brass in there... don't you guys wipe your shit down at least? :)

You're buddy is full of shit. Nothing personal. But if the military did have bigger badder stronger lighter materials, he's definitely not going to get his grubby little meat hooks on enough of it to make you a shifter or what have you.

mine took two weeks from california to Maryland.

it's not the valve cover gasket, otherwise you'd be buring oil anyway via the vent on the valve cover.... My vote is head gasket. check it out, see that it set neatly over the oil channels to the head. it's obviously coming from a post-pump channel, which means it's between the head and the...