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it's really a hard choice. I've seen LS turbo and GSR turbo and both runs pretty good. The thing about LS/VTEC turbo is that they blow out during high revs more than 8200. i've seen it many times at the drap strips and myself, experience it too. The LS Turbo, if built to right specifications...

where is the IAB located. I heard it a black box or sumthin under or near the IM. any suggestions?

hasport.com.....click on tech.....scroll down.....click on OBD1 to whatever OBD is the donor....it should tell you....you do know where the VTEC solenoid and switch is located on the engine right?

check out the speed sensor....

where do you live? my shop will presmog for your car, if you don't pass, we'll tune it to pass. hey i also do legitimate runs...

WHY? might as well slap on a B16 for the cheapest....

the best solution is just to build up that motor to reach turbo applications. THis, you'll achieve the best out of it. Be patient and do researching. but for right now if you can't wait, i recommend a small Trust of HKS. but if you want to build it, build the head suitable to handle the turbo...

go with rota.....slip stream is alright, but just check out rotas C8.

it'll save you more if you do a whole lot of research.....installing the motor and making it run by yourself is a must. with the installation fee, you could of built that motor. B18C into EG6 is not hard at all. wiring is easy as hell too....if you need some advice, holla at me.

put some work in it, nice work. i'm still cleaning mine out, theres sure a lot of salt and solvent. i'm thinkin of building a new one.

dang this shit is hella confusing.....obd this obd that...hheewww

the f20 only cost 2000....the trust R1 really hit hard on the F20 during second gear, you can really hear that thang. The F20 did take out the H22 on 1st to third gear, and the H22 ran up side by side during 4. I think the h22 lags out on low ends, then sends up quick on the high....good for a...

buy an adapter.....so much easier....you have to hook up IAB though, notice you don't have IAB on your Si......

as soon as you release the clutch, it's a direct catch. this means, no loss of speed.

go turbo, it's a little budgy buying oil for it every 2 weeks but hey it pays off.

I've seen many accord hybrids with h22a and not so much with F20B....a couple nights ago my guys swapped a F20B fully built in turbo applications in a accord. It was powered my a Trust R1 running 18-24 lbs. It ran against a H22A accord turbo equiped with HKS GT2835 Pro S Turbo. they ran side by...

depends on what OBD series you are running on. OBD2 P72 will need wire relocation. better if you bought a adapter. OBD2 P71 will just wire up. you will need to do a 4 wire O2 conversion, VTEC Switch and Soleniod, and IAB (Pissed Off------> you are wrong about IAB, it;s Intake Air Bypass.)...

Don't push yourself, save that money and gently look for that B18C, if you do find JDM, it'll be the best....depends on what you are running.....my shop does sell USDM and JDM motors, but i'm pretty sure you can't be able to purchase it from me with 2k......keep it up young buck...

i thought that we need people that can write and have good literacy at 3rd grade........now, we really need people smarter than 3rd grade.....

your harness is an OBD1, so if the motor is a OBD1, it'll blt on perfectly... .. you have to change the 3 wire O2 sensor to a 4 wire...