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Well I have begun my wire tuck and plan on posting up some pics along the way. Alot more will come later, the easy part is getting everything taken out. I am going to move the fuse box under the dash and the battery to the trunk. I took out the heater core and the blower motor, so...

same material, same design. All that makes it a stage one is the larger clutch disc

I hear ya, I have been through about 4 of the 3/8 teardrop handle craftsmen's. The internals just wear out. I had the same experience with walking into Sear's too. Walk in hand them the ratchet, and they just pull one from under the counter! and hand it to me.

Nope Cal you don't know what you are talking about. You should have just let blanco build it for you over the net. He can read a manual better than anyone.

BRRRRR stay warm in the cold man. Working in the cold sucks, I do not envy you. It was -18 (without windchill) below when I went to work yesterday morning.

^_^ The next big thing!! Never go to a garage again. Get your car diagnosis online. Please don't presume you know what is going on with his car unless you have actually seen it. Exedy manufactures the oem clutches for Honda. The "stage 1" is the same as an oem clutch, it has a slightly...

My bad, I missed that. But it only talks about degreeing the cams. With the setup I posted up you can get your piston to valve clearance without claying the motor. You can also get the valve to valve clearance also I beleive.

Oh you need a link, well sorry there isn't one. I don't know of any write up thats out there to explain how to use it. Not that difficult to figure out though. I may do a write up one day for it, but it takes alot of time which I don't have right now.

Once you adjust the bolt holes you will also run the chance of the header ports not lining up well with your exhaust ports of the head.

Pics of the "clearancing fixture"

^^^ Yep, claying is becoming a thing of the past. Its just a pain to have to take the motor back apart to check the clay thickness. All of your clearances can be checked with measuring tools while the motor is together. Most people just don't have the correct tools, so claying is their...

Did you happen to read the whole listing? The bolt holes on the header flange don't line up with the head. They say to fix them yourself and that its simple. If it was so easy, why wouldn't they take the time to fix the holes and then not even have to put that in their listing? Probably...

C-Speed Compression Calculator

Nice numbers out of an oem h23. Once you get it all peiced together and tuned right you should put down some serious power and awesome torque. Gotta love 2.3 liters!

Good thread, just wanted to add that you should always use a "moly"(short for molybdenum) based assembly lube not engine oil when assembling an engine. Also you are better off using more assembly lube than a thin layer on your bearings for initial startup.

With your cast pistons I would recommend using them. You aren't going to gain much with your setup by running plugs. And you are gaining the cooling for the cast piston. Only helps to plug with forged pistons.

Its called an LS/Vtec. Do a search and you can find out what you will need to put a vtec head on a non-vtec block.

Ok, lets start with saving you some money. You don't need an eagle crank, none better than a Honda crank. Ditch the block gaurd. Phantom grip rocker arms...... uh NO!. I didn't even know they made them, but they are garaunteed to be crap. Zex retainers are ok, but there are much better...

dude if you are are trying to sell a headgasket atleast tell him what thickness it is. Three layer tells him nothing. Bottom line is if you want to keep your pistons then you will need a thicker headgasket.

After 2000 CTR and ITR cams are exaclty the same. Before that go with ctr cams.