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So I swapped a 95 accord sohc-vtec into my 97 accord se (non-vtec). The swap was out of necessity, so I don't care if it has "vtec" or not. I converted the obd-2 engine harness to match the obd-1 distributor , swapped the egr valves and swapped out the injectors. Other than that everything...

1997 Accord LX, non-vtec, a/t - all stock Originally had a leaking headgasket. Chanced it and just replaced the gasket. Discovered that there was still a leak - car would overheat with high load and bubbles would emerge in the radiator - but other than that it ran perfectly. So, removed...

I am worth $2,593,130 on HumanForSale.com

Thanks. I ended up changing the rotor and plugs, cleaned the nodes on the cap and resetting the ignition timing. Runs well, however, the idle is inconsistent (fluctuates a couple hundred rpms or so 800-1000) and I still have the mild vibration at idle - even though I drop the idle down to 700...

You can use the accord power steering pump and line if you wish. You just have to get a 44" belt. It is advisable to get the prelude pressure line and use the prelude pump. YOu can use the accord a/c compressor and altenator (so you don't have to get your a/c lines rebent) 4 wires for vtec...

I believe a honda-tech member did a very comprehensive analysis of various h22 headers. Including dyno measurements etc. I can't search right now, but I believe it was (at one point) a sticky in the prelude forum. Whether or not it included the headers you mentioned - I don't recall.. sorry.

no. I don't have a gauge. I think I should buy one. I just bought new wires and a rotor and will try to get them installed today or tomorrow... But I'm wondering if the pump is going or if the injectors might be clogged. But I'm trying to figure out how this would tie into the slight vibration...

timing looks good. problem is intermittant. . :blink:

1993 Accord JDM h22 w/at NO CELs ----- So the other day I was driving the car and for some time now it had a slightly rough idle. It would idle around 900 rpm and there was a slight vibration in the steering wheel. I come to a stop and the idle goes down to 700 and all of sudden it's...

ha. I shorted out the plug that goes to the thermostat with a paperclip... now my fans run constantly.. :laugh: I was too lazy to extend the plug..

You will need the complete interior dash and chasis wire harness You will need the automatic pedal assembly 1.You will need the automatic shifter a. You will need to cut out the neck of the 5spd shifter assembly to allow the auto shifter to sit in correctly b. You will need to get the...

despite what everyone here is saying, it is concievable that the frame rail and fender well needed to be modified. I've converted a GSR to automatic and because the auto tranny is about 1 1/2" taller than the 5 speed tranny and about 1" longer some body fabrication was necessary. When I did...

They seem ok. They squeak, but the upper control arm itself doesn't seem to have any lateral movement. The chasis has about 20K on it. Is there any specific way I should check them aside from dropping the LCA and wishbone and checking for lateral movement?

99 Integra LS auto Well, I've replaced the passenger axle twice already. New Tires Alignment seems to be ok When I have the car jacked up and in D4, and accelerate the shaft of the CV wobbles slightly. It is not out of round. There appears to be some play on the inboard join, but not between...

nothing like some good Hawaiian bud.. :mrgreen:

on a rock in the middle of the sea.. :shades:

legislative analyst + pay +benefits + some days don't do squat.. read, eat lunch, have a beer, leave work - insane hours at other times - insane responsibility - have to deal with people who know more about legislation/laws/government than me ...but only have a HS diploma

Found the problem. The switch was bad..but the problem caused the switch to appear to be good based on continuity tests.. :blink:

debated if this should go in electronics..but I don't know. 99 Integra. I've checked almost everything possible. Changed the motor. nope Changed the integrated control unit. nope changed the switch. nope help would be appreciated.

As it has already been mentioned, I'll repeat it.. :lol: Seafoam is an excellent product to dissolve carbon buildup/deposits. If your engine has a tremendous amount of the above seafoam will help. If your engine is pretty free of carbon deposits ('free' being a term I'm using loosely)...