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A CRV intake will work. I think your computer may issues shifting an Integra transmission. My car is converted to OBD1 using an uses an Integra auto computer. I wish if it was possible I had stayed OBD2 because I have sputter issues and my car bogs at part throttle then triggers an O2 code...

Fixed my downshift, lack of power and cam like idol problem for $3.80. I replaced the PCV valve :o

I think the same thing happened to mine early on but I didn't do the swap and didn't fix that part of it. I believe it has something to do with a sensor near the shifter. I suggest you get the service manuals online for the 96-00 Civic and 94 Integra. Service manuals: Manuals - Downloads -...

Well turns out my new o2 sensor was bad and since Trackmasters o2 sensor extension had been my problem before I put my old o2 sensor back in and bingo my problems seem to be mostly gone. I think my old o2 may be a bit fouled so I'm going to get a new o2 and see if that improves my fuel economy...

O2 sensor problem fixed. The O2 sensor extension that Trackmasters made was bad. I cut my secondary O2 sensor connector off and replaced the bad connector with it and soldered everything together. I cranked the car and took it around the block and the car idles and drives a lot better with no...

Well good news the car has no engine codes and no tcm codes. The car is running a little rough but I think I can fix that by rewiring my o2 sensor extension because I'm getting a messed up reading from it but not the connector going to it which is odd I think. The car isn't too fond of...

So how does the below statement from this link ECU PINOUT OBD2a automatic civic - Honda-Tech sound in context of my problem? "OBD1 ECUs will not control OBD2 trannys. All OBD1 automatic transmissions had was 2 lockup solenoids. OBD2 has those plus a mainshaft speed sensor, countershaft speed...

Well after further inspection the trans fluid appears to be coming from where the axles shaft meets the transmission so the best guess is that the gasket was pinched or failed there. Also a spark plug check showed two plugs were white which is a lean condition correct? And the other two had...

I couldn't tell you what color it was when it went in because the shop that installed it put it in but I can say the fluid I added was pretty much the same color as what's dripping off the transmission now. What got on the floor looked red also but some had mixed with the antifreeze that came...

Yeah tell me about it hmotors sends me a pretty decent engine but a totally trashed automatic transmission that needs that seems to cause me all kinds of problems. First it has a broken mount, a busted mainshaft sensor, an obd2 transmission, and quite possibly one with a blown torque converter...

My IACV has no tubes running from it for coolant or vacuum. It looks like I have a modified one which I think is not good and may be part of my problem. I now have a transmission fluid leak but I'm not sure where from but I'm thinking hmotorsonline has probably sent me a bad transmission...

I'm having bad luck with my last used ECU I bought for my swap. Please message me with your price shipped to 35640. I need an obd1 P75-A51 ecu only. Thanks, Jason

It's not a map sensor...tried a new one and no change. Cleaned the throttle body some more but it's still better than it was but no change. Weird though I pulled the IAC and cleaned it up but still no change. I did forget to tighten the screws and one of the screws fell out but the funny...

Well I think I found the problem. If you notice the transmission code there S4XA that means it's an OBD2 automatic. I believe this means it has OBD2 sensors and well that's a big problem but I'm not certain just how big at this point. to be continued... Just for the heck of it here are...

Ok D4 light still comes on occasion but not as often. The car idles without stalling but still stumbles and full throttle mostly makes noise without much acceleration. I plan to pull the MAP sensor next and clean it if that's even possible and if that doesn't work I may just replace it. I...

Well I pulled the intake piping and cleaned out the throttle body and it was really black with some oily crap. So I cleaned it out with throttle body cleaner and it seems to be running a little bit better now but it will occasionally drop rpm and then idle back up but at least it doesn't stall...

I'm not certain if I found a leak at this point or not. When I sprayed carb cleaner around the throttle body/IAC area it died but I can't be sure it wasn't doing what it usually does after it idles without a foot touching the accelerator. I'll try again on a cold engine tonight...heck I may...

Since the car is dying at idle I'm having a hard time figuring out whether it's dying because of a vacuum leak or another reason when I spray carb cleaner on it. Since I didn't drive my car to work today and I think my car is less likely to die at idle when it's cold I'm going to try again when...

The car idles poorly it seems when their is a sort of an electrical surge in car. Like maybe a fan or something is supposed to be triggered. The passenger side radiator fan turns on and off but it doesn't seem to be directly related to the fluctuation but on the other hand the drivers side fan...

I had no engine lights at all until I disconnected the IAC last night then an engine light triggered. The engine actually seemed to idle better but when I put it in reverse and started moving it made it to the back of my driveway and died. I had to reset the code before the car would even go...