00 gs-r motor, how to build 12sec on n/a

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Im gonna gut my car for weight reduction but i was wondering how much HP i need to run mid 12's in q/m in a 00 gs-r
I already have aem fuel rail, and fuel b & M gauge,aem pressure regulator, autometer gauges to cheeck stats while i drive or to help tune.
I was thinking about getting a skunk2 catback,injen cai,dc sports headers, skunk 2 manifold or JG Victor x mani, skunk 2 dual valve springs and retainers and a stage 1 cam from crower or skunk2, also aem pulleys.

Anyone know where that might put me at in HP?
Anyone has any sugestions or what do to?
I wanna be in 12sec range but need stability for daily driver 4 now.

I was thinking of running a turbo kit at 6lbs of boost but i know, gsr motor has already higher compression and i need the motor to last and turbos are higher maintence,so thats why im thinking of staying n/a for stablity but not go to extreme to keep it reliable.

any comments or advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
The only way to figure this out is to take YOUR car with YOUR mod to a dyno or track. There is no way to say that an ls/vtec with an aem CAI will make XXX horse to the wheels. it simply can't be done. There's too many variants in engines in the first place, plus other factors such as how it was built and tuned.

Remember, 2 stock motors will more likely than not dyno at the same figure, albiet it will be relatively close.

Basically, don't be upset when we say we can't tell you and to run it at a track or dyno. Afterall, estimates are usually wrong anyway.

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We can't tell you. None of your friends can tell you. The only way to get a true number is to put your car on a Dyno, or go to the track and run it and compare your times/numbers.

Don't be upset when we tell you we can't say, and direct you here. We are just trying to keep things Legit and real :: no BS about "yeah you will run 9's".
 
In an 00 gsr you will need atleast 200hp and maybe some slicks to get to the 12's. Stage 1 cams are not going to get you there.
 
You will need to bump the compression as well as some stage 2 cams and do the dual valve springs and titanium retainers. My buddy had a built GSR motor in a gutted hatch and he was running 12.4 all day. This also depends on the driver to get it get down the track quickly.
 
Originally posted by 97CTR@Aug 9 2005, 06:52 AM
In an 00 gsr you will need atleast 200hp and maybe some slicks to get to the 12's. Stage 1 cams are not going to get you there.
[post=537740]Quoted post[/post]​



not true, buddies setup went 12.6 on slicks

gsr motor
ported and polished head
skunk1 cams
type r manifold modded to fit back in the day
type r pistons
ferrera valves and retainers
 
Ok, so you've basically just listed off a bunch of bolt-ons. Not going to haul a GSR into the 12's, maybe not even the 13's.

By the time you're done building your GSR N/A and running within a 12 second 1/4, you could have been running 11's with boost, for less money on a stock block/compression setup with a good tune.

N/A is the expensive way to go slow.
 
Boost isnt everything though. I had a hatch that was a boosted ls. if he wants to go na dont get on him for it let him. power to my na brother!
 
wiseco 11.8:1/hbeam rods
skunk pro cams/valve train/Intake mani
EMS
nitrous
slicks


i think youll see 12sec......





in a rex :hide:



but i think that you need to look into forged internals and if you stay na then an overbore would be okay

m2c
 
I would like to run turbo but i know too many people that blew there motors from it, even rebuilding the block with internals blow within 7 mths. I guess there downfall might have been not going the more expensive route and get the block fully blueprinted and balanced. I wouldn't care if i came from a weathy family but i have to bust my @ss everyday and save to get to my dreams and I can only afford to do it right the first time. I just cant see saving money for a couple of years to invest to be able to have a respectable timeslip to only last for 6mths to a yr then rebuild. Especially if the car is your daily driver to get to and from work. Im sure there are other people out there like me that understand, thats the only reason i was thinking goin N/A. thanks :)
 
i understand what your saying about reliability. But ask people around here, alot of cars a boosted and daily drivers with no problems. If you build the motor right the first time and dont half ass it and use shitty parts and youll be fine. Good luck with either way you go.
 
It would be quicker, cheaper and you could still maintain daily drivability to go with the turbo. In order to run quick times with n/a internal work to the engine would be nesscessary along with many hours of tuning, and slicks, transmission work and maybe then you might still need to drop some weight to get to the time that you want.

I would reccommend the turbo.

but to help with 1/4 times regardless of choosing n/a or turbo. 13"or 12" drag radials with slicks, nitrous, LSD, lighten the rear end(drag kits are available), find a track that is slightly down hill and close to see level, run on cold days, go on a diet.
Try and reduce your 60' time, i.e. being able to launch at a higher RPM without spinning your tires. beefy axles, clutch that grabs tight, Gummy slicks, light weight wheels.

Run a racing b pipe, get an ITR tranny, loose any drag(if you have a wing/body kit with huge gaping holes that catch wind, remove it)
 
Originally posted by adnoh@Aug 10 2005, 12:33 PM
Ok, so you've basically just listed off a bunch of bolt-ons. Not going to haul a GSR into the 12's, maybe not even the 13's.

By the time you're done building your GSR N/A and running within a 12 second 1/4, you could have been running 11's with boost, for less money on a stock block/compression setup with a good tune.

N/A is the expensive way to go slow.
[post=538480]Quoted post[/post]​


I love it when people say that all motor is the expensive way to go slow hell I have even said it but hey if his guy wants to go ALL MOTOR I say go for it but to get into the 12s you will need some bottom end work i.e. some higher compression pistons. But if you want to go Turbo I say go for it there are many many people here with daily driver turbo setups it's all about the tuning. I think you still have alot to think about before you decide what you want to do don't be like me and just jump into it. GOOD LUCK mang.
 
Originally posted by 97CTR@Aug 9 2005, 07:52 AM
In an 00 gsr you will need atleast 200hp and maybe some slicks to get to the 12's. Stage 1 cams are not going to get you there.
[post=537740]Quoted post[/post]​

its more like about 210 with slicks to break into the 13s in an integra. plus a good driver. coming from someone who has an integra, all-motor is not really a good way to go fast in this car. either way you would have to spend alot of money to get an integra into the 12s while still keeping it reliable. turbo will probably be easier.
 
ok i did alot of research today and i retract my statement, turbos dont blow motors its the lack of proper tuning or shall i say detonation that causes engine failure. I read also that a gsr rod can withstand up to 500hp and im not too sure about this statement but let me know what u think.....it says "a gsr engine with t3/t4 turbo with 9lbs of boost and proper tuning should make 320 hp and run low 12's in a civic hatchback,also installed a six puck clutch"
Read that a the "h" and "b" series stock blocks can handle around 40% increase in power output before internal upgrades are due and the b16,b17,b18 cranks are good to 800 hp.
So if this is true i should be able to run 8lbs of boost on my b18c with tuning and the right a/f ratio and be alright as a daily driver?
Whats up with the b20 block and gsr head combo? I've been hearing its an awesome torque producing combo.
 
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