2000 Honda Civic DX/B20 swap

DeadLeg

New Member
First post here, but this same post will be found on another forum.

I am not mechanic.
I am not physically capable of doing most work on my vehicle.
Now that is stated lets move on.
My wife and I did buy a 2000 Honda Civic DX for her daily driver.
Ultimate plan of course was that it would eventually end up in my hands after we got her an upgrade.

It is now in my hands and that d16y7 is not cutting it. After lurking around here for the last year I finally decided to start a thread for my build. This is not meant to be a how to, to brag or anything other than criticism. I will post all the parts I will be or have purchased and everyone feel free to chime in with what I forgot to add.

Alright!
First question you are to ask yourself when doing a build is what are your expectations and your budget.
I want to have 120-130WHP by next year with the potential of (This is now undecided, previously thought 300 might be possible but been educated by the HT community that I may of set my sights high)WHP in the distant future.
I have $2000 to spend just for the first part.
The car MUST be automatic and the car MUST have A/C.
This will be a three step process that will be spread out over 3-5 years.
First Step; Get the motor in the car and funcitioning.
Second Step; VTEC
Third Step; Turbo

With the 300WHP expectation a b-series swap seemed necessary. And the motor I have chosen is the B20. Now keep these things in mind.
This will will be a slow progressive build, one step tackled at a time.
For medical related reasons my vehicles are automatic.

Here are the pages I have been using as reference.
My B20 into EK parts list - by DevinW
How to build a "reliable" lsvtec/b20vtec - by bambam
B20 w/LS auto - by civicjason

10/27/2015 : The first part of this build is to get a stock B20B/Z motor in, this means NonVTEC and automatic.

Parts List (so far)
Engine -
B20B/Z OBD2 (it will come with alternator)
Starter - for a 1997 Integra LS
Intake - for a 1997 Integra LS
Accelerator Cable - for a 1997 Integra LS
Canister Purge Valve - for a 1997 Integra LS
IAT Sensor - Universal Part(?)
Mount(s) - 99-00 Si Rear mount (I need a part number for this one)
Mount(s) - 99-00 Si Timing Belt mount (maybe, I hear the CRV will also work... conflicting information)
Mount(s) - CRV, non specific year, Front Lower Driver Side Torque mount
Mount(s) - 96-00 CRV Driver side Front Lower Engine mount
Mount(s) - 97 Integra Front Transmission Mount
Automatic Transmission - B-series, aiming for a 1997 Integra LS automatic transmission
CV Axles - for a 1997 Acura Integra (This seems very common on all B20 builds, alot say the 94-00 axles will work. (are they straight bolt on or modifications being done?)
Exhaust Manifold - I get information stating that any B series manifold will work. True?
Intake Manifold - I get conflicting information, some previous build posts say that the USDM B20B is too tall but the B20Z is not. Now what do they mean by to tall, like the hood will get in the way or the fire wall will get in the way?

I need confirmation on what motor mounts need to be used, wiring harness for TCU and what axles.

After this is done I will look into going V-TEC, either with the B20 head or with a B16. This will be researched later on, so if that gets brought up you are moving ahead of me and not helping. Also, do not say 'turbo it' I know this is an option and it will come up in the distant future. But for right now talking about those two subjects don't necessarily help. UNLESS a specific part or action I take prevents or hinders the option of V-TEC and/or Turbo in the future.

This post is on another forum, but I am on the hunt for as much feedback on my research as possible. Point out everything missed and this top post will be updated accordingly.

Thank you for your time and more importantly your input.
 
Last edited:

civicjason

New Member
A CRV intake will work.
I think your computer may issues shifting an Integra transmission. My car is converted to OBD1 using an uses an Integra auto computer. I wish if it was possible I had stayed OBD2 because I have sputter issues and my car bogs at part throttle then triggers an O2 code with engine light.

I think you would find better performance for the money if you bought a 2000 Honda Accord V6 or even a 4 cylinder.
 

Briansol

Admins
Staff member
Admin
VIP
The b20 intake mani won't clear your hood - it's too tall. The ls will and bolts right on. It's simply the height. I can't remember if its both the b20b and b20z or just one of them.

300 on an auto tranny is not going to be a good time without significant work. If auto is a must, i'd highly consider chopping a full 100 off that goal or you're going to dump 3k in the tranny alone to get it to hold that power.

b20 heads are not vtec. you'll need a b16 or b18 head for vtec.

most exhaust manifolds will work, but some b16 specific ones are physically shorter and might not clear the oil pan. if you're going turbo later, don't waste money here as it will be a throw away.

if you're looking to make power, i'd suggest getting a HAsport mount kit. Not sure they do anything for the auto tranny mount though (and it is different).



With a 2k budget, i honestly would probably scrap the b20 extras and just buy a complete 00-01 B18b1 automatic change over from a local junk yard, or even source it through the mechanic you are going to have do the work. The 97-99 units may have automatic tcu issues and there's little documentation out there around it.
 
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