89 dx d16z6 swap runs like poo

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mesa50w

New Member
Well i got it to run but just barely, pretty much dies when you hit the gas.
relay is good
have spark
timing marks all line up
no codes
 
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What ecu are you running and do you have a resister box for your injectors? Does it run any better about half throttle versus idle or WOT?
 
p28
no resister box
obd1 injectors
phantonic dpfi to mpfi harness with vtec and 02 senosr
locash obd0 to obd1 jumper

I've had 2 differant local honda guys say that they think its the dpfi to mpfi harness. They said to pull it and make my own. I guess thats my next step, or part the stupid thing out and be done with it

nope it dose'nt run any better at wot
 
Pull your spark plugs back out and check them for deposits. Black soot indicates the motor is running rich. White chalky looking deposits indicate a lean condition. is there any smoke coming out of the exhaust?
 
its running rich for sure the plugs have some deposits on them but not bad....I tune my STi so I'm pretty well educated on AFR's and EGT's. No smoke from the exhaust.

Fernpatch thanks for helping I realy need it!! Rep power coming your way from me sir
 
Try checking the fuel pressure if you have a gauge. if you don't have access to a gauge than you can take some smooth jawed pliers and gently restrict the fuel line beteween the filter and the rail. If you can get it to run right with a restriction in the line than tuning the ecu to shorten you injector pulse width or running a adjustable pressure regulator could solve the issue. Also check IAT and coolant temp sensors as they are 2 of the primary inputs for fuel calculation in the computer. If you have access to a graphing multimeter or a Digital Osciliscope you can try sweeping you tps to see if it has any bad spots.
 
when you turn your key initially to the on position does the check engine light come on?
Just making sure its not burnt out or just not working at all. I know its a bit after the fact, always good to double check.
 
thanks guys!!!!

yea the check engine light works
Fern I'll try what u said thanks and rep power coming for both of you for the help...thank you guys
 
next thing i would check out is the wiring to the distributor. I do not remember the pins but there's 2 wires I swapped out one time when I rewired my CRX sometime back.

Then again that would be throwing some codes..

how long have you let it run before shutting it off or letting it die?
I'm really not sure, swapping the map and tps sensor would cause similar issues sometimes, and sometimes take a few moments to throw a code.

You could try to intentionally throw a code by unplugging the map sensor. Resetting the ECU involves pulling the hazard fuse for a few seconds and checking the codes there's a jumper near the passenger kick panel.

If you can get your hands on another ECU see if it causes similar results.
 
Got it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
the locash jumper I bought was missing 1 wire and it had 2 wires switch..all for the dizzy....it runs great but what a pain it had been. the car is pretty pepE with the z6 in it. Thnaks again to all you guys that were posting and helping me out...you rock
 
good to hear you got that straightened out :D..


missing wires tend to do crazy things to a car.
 
I'm still a firm believer in the idea that if you can't fix it with a hammer it's an electrical issue.
 
I have actually fixed a computer with a hammer once.

the card wouldn't fit into the ISA slot.... so i made it.

it worked fine after that too.

So hammers fix those electrical issues too.(it was sort of electrical)
 
got everything back in the car drives, shifts great but I have a speed sensor cel on. I still have to get a cluster with a tach. Will that fix my speen sensor trouble?
 
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