95 Civic with B16a Limp Mode

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SkottEj1

New Member
Ok I have a

95 Civic EX

B16A P28 s300.

Head-
Cometic 81mm head gasket,
Skunk2 Pro 1 cams,
Skunk2 cam gears,
Skunk2 valves (std size/compression),
Skunk2 valve springs,
Skunk2 retainers,
Edelbrock Victor X manifold,
Blox 70mm throttle body,
ARP head studs.


BLOCK-
CP 9.5:1 pistons,
Eagle rods,
ACL bearings,
Balanced and polished crank.


FUEL-
BDL Fuel Rail
ID1000cc Injectors
Walbro 255 pump


Type R tranny
Exedy stage 1 clutch.

I'm sure I didn't have to list all that but I figured it wouldn't hurt.

My problem is that after about 20min of driving in the daytime and maybe 40min at night my CEL comes on and the car wont rev past 2500RPM's. So I used SManager and checked my CEL code and it says its overheating but my temp gauge reads normal. So my first thought was that maybe the temp sensor is ****ed up but if it was bad wouldn't it not read at all? Anyways I live in Las Vegas, Nv and it's been super ****ing hot out lately, like 103-108 degrees so I'm sure that's not helping at all. Just wondering what this could be? Can I take my thermostat out to make it constantly flow? I need help cause it's my only form of transportation and I don't want my girl to drive it and get stuck somewhere. Any advise would help. If you need more info or I forgot to add something LMK. Thanks!
 
Have you pooped the radiator top to EnSuRe that coolant flows when the thermo opens up?

Also.....may be worth your time to connect the service plug with a paper clip and count the flashes of the CEL (obviously after the code pops on)

Or.....did the management system give you a code or just the description you gave?
 
There are 3 temp sensors I can think of. One in the block, one in the head and one in the intake manifold. ECU reads at least two of them, not sure on the fan without looking at a schematic.

Initial suspect would be a sensor. Secondary is the wiring, connectors, etc. I would probably change head coolant temp sensor anyway, then give the wiring a good ring out with a meter. I believe as the sensor heats up the resistance goes from low to high, so the ECU could interpret a bad/open/intermittent connection as overtemp.

If you eliminate all the temp sensors and related wiring, I would look at the O2 sensor and it's wiring next.
 
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^^ this is good advise.

But make sure its flowing water....should be cuz you say the temp gauge expresses things are fine.
 
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